Good sound stage.

[6APPEAL]

Quality cost $$$$$$$, period.

Here is a link to a well written article by Eric Holdaway that will help explain imaging.
Tutorials at SpeakerWorks/USD Audio

John

 

[ViDeo^_^kiD]

So I've decided to go with Memphis and Eclipse, since the prices of other equipment is too high for me. I'm shooting for SQ not SPL, like you know.

Here is a list:

Eclipse CD7100 Head Unit

Memphis 1" Silk Dome Tweeters 50RMS/100MAX
Memphis MCSQ 5.25" Component Set 40RMS/80MAX (midrange) Res Frq. 77
Memphis MSYNC 8" converted to woofer 60RMS/120MAX (midbass) Res Frq. 55
Memphis MC69 6x9 60 RMS/120MAX (rear fill)
(1) Memphis M3 DVC 2ohm Subwoofer 400RMS/800MAX Res Frq. 33

Memphis 4-channel AB amp (power component set and tweeters on first crossover, power 6x9 on second crossover)
Memphis 2-channel AB amp (power 8" midbass)
Memphis Mono D amp (power subwoofer)

I have a few questions:

I heard that if you run any speaker, even a subwoofer at below 4 ohms. That the quality of the sound is diminished. So if I buy a 2ohm subwoofer, should I run it at 1ohm to maximize its performance and would it hurt the quality of the sound? Or should I run it at 4ohm? Or buy a DVC 4ohm and run it at 2ohm?

Secondly, I know Memphis underates their products a great deal...or atleast tell the true RMS for their speakers compared to just about all other companies. I also heard that you have to compensate for heat energy loss for AB amplifiers. So should I go with more than enough, or just enough amp?

2-channel: 60 watts RMS on each channel. Should I get a 75x2 amp, or 150x2 amp?

4-channel: 60 RMS watts will be on channel 3 and 4 each, 90 watts RMS will be on channel 1 and 2 each. 50x4, 75x4, 125x4??

Mono: 400RMS watts , should I run it at 4ohm, 2ohm, or 1ohm?

 

[6APPEAL]

Basically every time you halve the ohm load the amp sees, you also halve the damping factor of the amp. The simplest explanation is that damping is the ability of the amp to control the speaker.

More power is better. It's always easier to blow a speaker with a low power amp than a high power amp because you can drive the lower power amp into distortion long before you drive the high power amp into distortion. And distortion kills speakers much faster than not power.
John

 

[Joe Tiano]

I'm a IASCA S/Q guy from the early 90's 251-500w amateur class..and I think you should listen to a few systems in aTR /GN..figure out what YOU want or like!...before you spend a DIME on ANY equipment!... the equipment you have posted may have awsome ADVERTISED ratings ..but thats another story!..what I'm saying is there is no magic!..use your ears..do some simple sound testing in your car!....GEEZ..my wifes we4 has 2,12" subs 4ohm ea.,2 factoryconcertsound 4x10's,and a pair of 4" kicker coax's in the dash...1 nakamichi cd headunit...1,20yr old 2x25w orion amp...simple but effective(no s/q comp car)...but it works!
6appeal..nice link later joe

 

[Instro84]

Ditto what Joe said, salesmen will rattle off spec at you like crazy. years ago when i worked at an audio shop in louisiana you could tell the difference between someone who just wnated it loud and thos ethat wanted quality sound, the latter talked to the installers (they get paid the same no matter what you buy or how it sounds) best bet is to find a similar car with the sound you like and emulate it. people are shocked when they here my car with 15 yr old amps ans one 10 inch sub. hth