Got a carb turbo torn apart and

[charlief1]

Not to mention it but you need to stuff a rag in that intake so you don't have somethng sneek in there by accident. Looks good though.

 

[usetaboost]

you going to mold the scoop in so it doesn't look out of place. the little extra work now will pay off later.

THe original scoops weren't molded.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Yeah the H/O's didnt have the scoops molded but I might, I'm undecided. I will be filling in the strip where the molding fits in though. That center hood trim has always looked wiredly placed to me.

Main reason Id like to be able to take it off is so I can cut it out and make it functional later down the road if it ever ends up with a NA V8.

Is it fine to put duraglass in the trim gap? It gets sorta deep. 1/8+ or so. Or do I have to put a piece of sheet steel in to build it up?

 

[usetaboost]

Yeah I would definitely get rid of the hood trim. I myself don't think it ever looked right on any cutlass. If it was me I would have the scoop on like factory. The turbo monte was the same way. I would think duraglass would be ok to do, that's how the body shop did my rust holes on my firewall, but since we're talking about a hood, maybe matt or charlie will have a better suggestion.

 

[mat231v6]

THe original scoops weren't molded.

the idea is to make it look better than the factory. as you know the factory way is not always the best way.

 

[charlief1]

I tried molding a hood scoop into a hood many years ago and it kept cracking off. Rivited it down and then glassed it in but it kept coming loose.

 

[83turbomon]

I tried molding a hood scoop into a hood many years ago and it kept cracking off. Rivited it down and then glassed it in but it kept coming loose.

goes to show those wannabe buick turbo losers... dont mess with us:biggrin:

 

[mat231v6]

I tried molding a hood scoop into a hood many years ago and it kept cracking off. Rivited it down and then glassed it in but it kept coming loose.

the cowl hood i made has not cracked off yet.

 

[charlief1]

the cowl hood i made has not cracked off yet.

:tongue:

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Gettin stuff done!

Accesories on, wireing is 80% done, turbo is on, core support it on, fans are in, alcohol is plumed and works, built my spark plug wires, primed the oil system, ect.

 

[FlintBuick4Life]

Do work son:biggrin: Looking good... where did you get your alky nozzle from?

 

[83turbomon]

Do work son:biggrin: Looking good... where did you get your alky nozzle from?

You can get some nozzles from sears. Ive seen some near the hoses and connectors. BTW your intake hat should have alky holes already in them (atleast mine d0)

 

[mat231v6]

Do work son:biggrin: Looking good... where did you get your alky nozzle from?

mcmasters

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Yep,

mcmaster-carr.com

part #'s on Rich's site.

Ive got about $30 into the alky kit. Still need a switch before I can run it.

 

[FlintBuick4Life]

Cool, thanks... I missed that some how.

 

[usetaboost]

Yep,

mcmaster-carr.com

part #'s on Rich's site.

Ive got about $30 into the alky kit. Still need a switch before I can run it.

Lookin good dude. If you have trouble finding a hobbs switch I have one somewhere. Turn on point around 6 psi seems to work fairly well.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Lookin good dude. If you have trouble finding a hobbs switch I have one somewhere. Turn on point around 6 psi seems to work fairly well.

I found a $25 adjustable one off a turbo parts supplier. Probably just go with that. Unless you want to donate it!

 

[usetaboost]

you got that for a good price. THey're usually 10 bucks more. Which supplier?

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Hobbs Switch, Boost Activated, Boost Level Adjustable : atpturbo.com

 

[mikemcvaney]

Yeah the H/O's didnt have the scoops molded but I might, I'm undecided. I will be filling in the strip where the molding fits in though. That center hood trim has always looked wiredly placed to me.

Main reason Id like to be able to take it off is so I can cut it out and make it functional later down the road if it ever ends up with a NA V8.

Is it fine to put duraglass in the trim gap? It gets sorta deep. 1/8+ or so. Or do I have to put a piece of sheet steel in to build it up?

Cut it open now they let heat out also.Im telling you guys trow thejunk carb hat away it will not flow enough for your cam and heads now. Mine did not and if you do your checking Freds carran without a hat I remember when he took it off and put a scoop on it . After moding the one on my engine it worked better but still was not good enough. Great job the engine work looks great you are going to love it now. Get the hobbs switch for the power valve it will need all the gas it can get. Mike