Got a nitrous kit!

[TT/Ameasap]

Yes, you will get an effect of about 1/2 the advertised jet rating.


scott wile

So, this is with a dry system?

I wouldn't even think about trying to spray alcohol through your turbo. It wouldn't make it through the intercooler very well. Oh...nevermind I just saw that you are a hotair car...It might work out well for you then. I would be wary of it still...liquids are bad about puddling, but maybe the turbo would keep it moving the right direction

Nitrous, when it comes out of the noids/lines turns into gas lickety split. It would make it through the IC because it would just move with the pressurized charge. However if you do that you are going to lose some of the effect because it's moving a really long way and it's going through a very warm intercooler, which is going to heat up the nitrous. You also wouldn't want to try a wet shot through a turbo on an intercooled car. You would have a really tremendous backfire and immediate problems.

I spray mine in the up pipe about 6 inches away from the tb. I ran a 75 shot single NX nozzle and it hit like Mike Tyson with the boost coming on. I can't imagine how violent Don's must be. Mine went from 23 psi to about 28 psi on the spray up high. 35 makes a very noticeable difference as well, I picked up 8mph in the 1/8th on a 35!!!

If you have money or can fab, do a direct port. If not, IMO single wet nozzle is super easy and very affordable.

Disclaimer: I am not a nitrous expert, but I have sprayed pretty much every car that I have owned except for a few crappy beaters (and I thought about hosing them too). I just am using my experience and some common sense

Ok, I was thinking there was such a small amout of fuel on a 35 shot that it would be vaporized by the time it entered the turbo;However, I wasnt thinking about the bigger jets that may be added in the future. Makes sense now

Im thinking of spraying before the alky, but still in the uppipe. Seems like location is solidified now, on to the wiring

How are these units being activated? MAP sensor, TPS, ??

 

[kingots2004]

you can go either way tps or throttle switch or thumb button.i use a throttle switch on mine but you can get a tps switch.they are very easy to setup.good luck.i bought a nos sniper kit that does 35 to 57 shot for 290 off ebay brand new bottle and all.

 

[Alky V6]

Yes. That would be a dry system. Don't event think of filling your whole inlet track with nitrous and fuel! Vaporized or not. I've never seen an intercooler blow up yet. It would no doubt be pretty interesting.

For safety sake, there are a few things I would recommend.
Try not to use the nitrous at other than WOT and above 2000 to 2500 rpm, depending on the shot size. You can activate at 2000 rpm with the smaller shot.
If you wanted to play it real safe, you would have a WOT switch, a rpm switch (closed at above 2500 rpm) and a manifold pressure switch (closed at zero or very low vacuum, open with normal vacuum). All would have to be closed before the system would activate.
If you use a momentary switch (button), still have the other switches in series so you don't accidentally push the button at a bad time.
Have a master arming switch.
Use a bottle gauge so you can keep track of your bottle pressure. A hot day can get the bottle pressure up there, and if you're system jetting is not safe rich, you might get into a lean condition.

Run colder plugs and cut back the ground electrode. Especially if you plan to use the nitrous for more than just getting up on the turbo. I would suggest a standard nose/gap type plug. Get away from the projected nose. The ground electrodes are too long, capture too much heat and can't dissipate it quick enough.

 

[Black Power]

Yes. That would be a dry system. Don't event think of filling your whole inlet track with nitrous and fuel! Vaporized or not. I've never seen an intercooler blow up yet. It would no doubt be pretty interesting.

For safety sake, there are a few things I would recommend.
Try not to use the nitrous at other than WOT and above 2000 to 2500 rpm, depending on the shot size. You can activate at 2000 rpm with the smaller shot.
If you wanted to play it real safe, you would have a WOT switch, a rpm switch (closed at above 2500 rpm) and a manifold pressure switch (closed at zero or very low vacuum, open with normal vacuum). All would have to be closed before the system would activate.
If you use a momentary switch (button), still have the other switches in series so you don't accidentally push the button at a bad time.
Have a master arming switch.
Use a bottle gauge so you can keep track of your bottle pressure. A hot day can get the bottle pressure up there, and if you're system jetting is not safe rich, you might get into a lean condition.

Run colder plugs and cut back the ground electrode. Especially if you plan to use the nitrous for more than just getting up on the turbo. I would suggest a standard nose/gap type plug. Get away from the projected nose. The ground electrodes are too long, capture too much heat and can't dissipate it quick enough.

Good tips. This guy has been through more nitrous than most dentists :tongue:

 

[Black Power]

So, this is with a dry system?




Ok, I was thinking there was such a small amout of fuel on a 35 shot that it would be vaporized by the time it entered the turbo;However, I wasnt thinking about the bigger jets that may be added in the future. Makes sense now

Im thinking of spraying before the alky, but still in the uppipe. Seems like location is solidified now, on to the wiring

How are these units being activated? MAP sensor, TPS, ??

Like they mentioned, lots of ways to activate. I would NOT activate by a button or toggle switch. It's always a good idea to have a backup plan for if you have a stupid friend or a woman in your car. That way when they say "What's this for?" and flip your switch you don't have a 150hp shot of nitrous flying at your mostly closed throttle body while your engine is near idle

At very least use a WOT microswitch so that the only way it will activate is if your foot and your finger on the switch tell it to.

You could also do a window switch that brings it in at a certain rpm.

 

[Alky V6]

Just thought of another tip.
Retard the ignition timing 2 degrees for each 50 hp shot of nitrous. That's pretty standard.

Actually, in all my racing with the nitrous, I think I've only changed out the bottle around 4 times, maybe. That is one of the benefits of only spraying long enough to get on the turbo.

 

[Jerryl]

What about "T-ing" into the wires from the boost solenoid to activate the NOS (with a seperate master "on/off" switch so you can arm the system)?
The "spray point" could be programmed for "on/off" in the chip at a given load/rpm/boost for the stock ECM folks.

Can also be done with an aftermarket WB system that has an output wire with user programmable settings.
I am sure with an aftermarket system, it is a bit simpler.

 

[Alky V6]

What about "T-ing" into the wires from the boost solenoid to activate the NOS (with a seperate master "on/off" switch so you can arm the system)?
The "spray point" could be programmed for "on/off" in the chip at a given load/rpm/boost for the stock ECM folks.

Can also be done with an aftermarket WB system that has an output wire with user programmable settings.
I am sure with an aftermarket system, it is a bit simpler.

Not grasping the stradegy with your suggestion of Teeing into the boost solenoid and/or the WB system. Please elaborate.

 

[Jerryl]

Not grasping the stradegy with your suggestion of Teeing into the boost solenoid and/or the WB system. Please elaborate.

The boost solenoid will be activated at a given load as seen by the ECM.
This can be "changed", and/or user adjusted. (I am sure someone as sharp as TT can do this)

So, I am thinking ........ You can "T" into the boost solenoid wire to activate a relay, which in turn will activate the NOS solenoids. (No??)

My Zeitronix WB has an output wire as well that can be "user adjusted", based on boost /rpm.
Can this be used as well to activate the NOS???

 

[Alky V6]

The boost solenoid will be activated at a given load as seen by the ECM.
This can be "changed", and/or user adjusted. (I am sure someone as sharp as TT can do this)

So, I am thinking ........ You can "T" into the boost solenoid wire to activate a relay, which in turn will activate the NOS solenoids. (No??)

My Zeitronix WB has an output wire as well that can be "user adjusted", based on boost /rpm.
Can this be used as well to activate the NOS???

I think I would use some switches that are much more simple and predictable. If the WB output can be setup to give you an activation window that is consistent and dependable, then I don't see why that wouldn't work. The boost control solenoid may not be as consistent. Differing variables could cause the EMS to control the waste gate solenoid differently from one time to the next. You want your activation switching to be very, very predictable. You never want surprises from a nitrous system.

 

[neat]

I've got a 75 shot on my girls Regal, and it's great. Spool is literally instant on the bottle, and it cuts 1/4 miles times by a little over a second when I spray for the whole track.

Set up is a single NOS brand nozzle in the up pipe. The nozzle sprays at 90 degrees, so it directs the spray directly at the throttle body. I have a master arming switch in the car and a wide open throttle switch mounted on the linkage. I monitor it with a Power Logger.

Never had a problem or broken anything, but I've only put about 2 bottles through it.

 

[1chance]

Good post!

 

[Boostnitup]

I can see my goal of having the fastest '84 GN is foiled



I mounted my "single" nozzle into the back of the intake (under the coil pack near firewall) and run a small 60 horse shot. It sure helps with spool. On a hot day... the effect is very noticeable. :biggrin:

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Well, I have a stock ecm and I was wondering how to start and top the spray when I achieve boost. I am guessing to start the spray on the TPS sensor @ 4.6 , but how do I stop it at the certain boost level? Or am I going at this all wrong?

 

[Alky V6]

Well, I have a stock ecm and I was wondering how to start and top the spray when I achieve boost. I am guessing to start the spray on the TPS sensor @ 4.6 , but how do I stop it at the certain boost level? Or am I going at this all wrong?

If you're choosing to turn off the nitrous at a certain boost level, use a manifold pressure switch. I use a simple precision 16 psi pressure switch.

 

[Alky V6]

I can see my goal of having the fastest '84 GN is foiled

Sorry.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

If you're choosing to turn off the nitrous at a certain boost level, use a manifold pressure switch. I use a simple precision 16 psi pressure switch.

How does the pressure switch over-ride the tps to stop the spray?

 

[Alky V6]

How does the pressure switch over-ride the tps to stop the spray?

The normally closed pressure switch would be another switch in series circuit with whatever else you're going to use. Such as your master switch, WOT switch, rpm window switch, etc. It's just another switch. When your target manifold pressure is reached, the switch opens the circuit.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

Not To Hijack,

But back to Pre Turbo Spray:

What about the Early Draw thru system?
Will the carbon seals make it possible?


I was thinking of using a plate system under the carb for my 2nd truck but this article has me thinking twice!


A.j.

 

[Razor]

With the XFI I used the output for RPM vs TPS to activate the nitrous. In my case 2400 rpm's. Then I used the output for boost to shut it down. So at 2400 rpm's it activated, at 8 PSI it shut the system off.

You can buy voltage and rpm based switches from MSD. And a simple Hobbs switch to shut it down.