Got bored today and played some. PL file included

[pacecarta]

seriously david whats with the vehicle speed

you said this was a track pass but it looks like a pull on the LI expressway

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Went to the track again. i actually went WOT on this one
pulled WOT timing down
added 5% WOT Fuel
pulled 5% WOT fuel on 1/2

seriously david whats with the vehicle speed

you said this was a track pass but it looks like a pull on the LI expressway

 

[pacecarta]

that looks better
the 1-2 timing delay where it hangs at 18 deg until around 35mph is because its an alky chip for street
if you make any adjustments to 1-2 timing that delay and drop of timing will go away and you will have full chip timing in 1-2.. the timing change is something you will feel in the seat


fueling looks ok ,
take it to track and see what the car does
i would take out 1 click from 1-2 to remove the delay (make sure your alky is primed and ready -hit test before burnout) , bring the 3-4 timing back up around 20 then , add a little WOT in case boost rises during run (remove 1st fuel same amount )
and then look at mph and see if it slows down or picks up with more WOT fuel

 

[murphster]

I took a quick look too and agree with Paul. Tune looks pretty safe, boost is steady, low timing. You could probably add a degree of timing and be safe at that power level. If you turn the boost up a few pounds then I'd go back to this timing. Use this log as a baseline for the A/F. When you add more boost down the road, add a decent amount of fuel to more than cover it. Hopefully the log will show rich and then pull a little fuel out at a time to get a log like this one.

I don't know which 206 cam you have, but the rpms look a little low on the shifts. You prob want a couple to few hundred rpm more at the top of the gears. For those rpms you could have left a stock cam in there.

And based on the vehicle speed and rpms its looks like a rolling start from 25mph, not a track pass from a dead stop. But this is a good way to test things out to see if everything looks right.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

cool
I am hoping to go when you guys are around to hold my hand LOL

This was in "D" and it shifted automatically.
my next time out i will shift it manually i have the shift light set up to 5400. i figure by time i react to the light the rpms should be a little higher and at around 5600.

Edit Ok i will change the 1/2 timing one number UP to 129.
i will add another 5% to WOT and pull that same 5% from WOT 1/2.
If after that everything still looks good i will add a touch of WOT timing.

 

[Eric Stage I]

On the timing, to switch to the more aggressive curve, you'll have to add to 1/2 timing. So take that up 1 number, instead of down 1 number. That will remove the alky timing dip. Any time you go higher with 1/2 timing, the timing dip will be removed. Going lower leaves it in.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

On the timing, to switch to the more aggressive curve, you'll have to add to 1/2 timing. So take that up 1 number, instead of down 1 number. That will remove the alky timing dip. Any time you go higher with 1/2 timing, the timing dip will be removed. Going lower leaves it in.

thanks for the info.

 

[murphster]

This was in "D" and it shifted automatically.
my next time out i will shift it manually i have the shift light set up to 5400. i figure by time i react to the light the rpms should be a little higher and at around 5600.

I'm usually 200-300 off on the 1/2 and set the shift light early too. On the 2/3 you need to be late on the shift light though since rpms aren't rising near as fast. Do you have a decent shifter?

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

I'm usually 200-300 off on the 1/2 and set the shift light early too. On the 2/3 you need to be late on the shift light though since rpms aren't rising near as fast. Do you have a decent shifter?

I have a B&M MEGA shifter - it's a ratchet shifter.



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