Got Caught...

[Rampage]

Someone once told me "Don't drive a GN without your toolbox". I took the GN out today to run a couple of errands and got caught by an electrical gremlin . My ride was going fine for about 20 minutes then I noticed my tach started acting a funny, the needle started jumping around and then dropped to zero. At first I thought it was or loose connection or something or maybe the crank sensor on its way out but the car still ran fine. I started to get a little nervous and hit the gas a couple of times and it started missing when I built a little boost (3-5lbs). So I drove over to the right lane on the service road and stopped at a light and I can feel the car starting to die on me. No idiot lights were flashing or anything. 10ft past the light the GN died. Put it in neutral to restart it and I had what sounded like a dead battery. Pushed the car to the side and let it rest for about 5 minutes and still nothing. Checked the battery connections and everything was still tight. I just put in a new Optima battery 2 weeks ago and at the same time I checked the alternator voltage, it was 14.5 volts at the post to ground. I'm thinking the alternator died and the car was running on the battery and when that ran out, the car died. When I turn the key to "on" I didn't hear the fuel pump prime. Tomorrow, I'm going to put a in fresh battery in it and see what happens and hopefully nurse it back home. If not, flat-bed the B---h home.

Two questions;
How come the volt idiot light didn't come on when the altenator or battery started dying? Before when I turned the switch "On" not starting it, the volt light illuminates, so I know the bulb is ok.

Where are the fusible links?

 

[jurassic five 7]

Where is your car now!?!! Is it on the side of the road far away from you?! If you left it on the side, i hope no one breaks in and TRYS to steal the car!

 

[bison]

Someone once told me "Don't drive a GN without your toolbox". I took the GN out today to run a couple of errands and got caught by an electrical gremlin . My ride was going fine for about 20 minutes then I noticed my tach started acting a funny, the needle started jumping around and then dropped to zero. At first I thought it was or loose connection or something or maybe the crank sensor on its way out but the car still ran fine. I started to get a little nervous and hit the gas a couple of times and it started missing when I built a little boost (3-5lbs). So I drove over to the right lane on the service road and stopped at a light and I can feel the car starting to die on me. No idiot lights were flashing or anything. 10ft past the light the GN died. Put it in neutral to restart it and I had what sounded like a dead battery. Pushed the car to the side and let it rest for about 5 minutes and still nothing. Checked the battery connections and everything was still tight. I just put in a new Optima battery 2 weeks ago and at the same time I checked the alternator voltage, it was 14.5 volts at the post to ground. I'm thinking the alternator died and the car was running on the battery and when that ran out, the car died. When I turn the key to "on" I didn't hear the fuel pump prime. Tomorrow, I'm going to put a in fresh battery in it and see what happens and hopefully nurse it back home. If not, flat-bed the B---h home.

Two questions;
How come the volt idiot light didn't come on when the altenator or battery started dying? Before when I turned the switch "On" not starting it, the volt light illuminates, so I know the bulb is ok.

Where are the fusible links?

Its not the battery because its not needed for the car to run. Only needed when alt is not producing sufficient voltage. Could be a bad alt. Fuse links are near the starter. If you burned a link that goes to the ecm, usually you will have nothing for power with the key on. The idiot lights wont even work. You probably have a short(s) to ground somewhere on one of the ecm circuits.

 

[flattype]

I would take the alternator off and get it tested. Its pretty easy to take off and most places dont charge to test them.

 

[BEATAV8]

Check the fuel pump fuse - see if it's blown. If it is, check the fuel pump diagnostic connector on the left side of the engine. It's a little green connector flapping in the breez, sometimes it comes in contact with something grounded (like the alternator case) and causes the fuel pump fuse to blow. The bouncing around / shorting out against a ground causes the goofy tachometer readings and other electrical freaky things you mentioned.

 

[bison]

I seem to remember the tach doing funny $hit when the tach lead grounds out with the car running. Its the green connector coming out of the harness on the driver side.

 

[Rampage]

Well I got the GN home this morning. It was going to cost about $180-200 to flat bed it home. So I took a chance and bought a battery for $90 bucks, dropped it in and she started right up. The voltage at the Altenator post to ground is 11.75 volts with the car running. I kissed my glove box bible and drive the b-tch home. Needless to say it was a tense 20 minute drive. I'm going to yank the altenator tonight and have it tested. However, I still want to test electrical system to make sure I don't have a short/drain somewhere. The previous owner hacked into the harness for an alarm, radio, gauges and other BS. It looks like a rats nest under the dash and firewall. I want to try clean it up and bullet-proof the electrical system as best as possible.

What is the best way to test for a short? Do I remove the positive battery, disconnect the ECM lead, and bridge my VOM meter between the battery terminal and the cable end? If the car is off, I shouldn't have volts going through the meter, correct? If I do, then should I start pulling fuses and see if the voltage drops to zero?

Any advice on doing this would be greatly appreciated...

 

[DavzGN]

Does the volt light on the dash come on with the key on and the engine not running? If the bulb is bad it can cause the battery to not charge.

HTH
David

 

[KevinB]

$180 for a 20 minute tow

 

[bison]

$180 for a 20 minute tow

Talk about being corn holed. I would push the phucker home before i paid some a$$ clown $180 for a short tow. I could see if it was Sunday or a holiday but thats f'in robbery.

 

[Rampage]

Yeah I know, $180 bucks...That's why I took the chance with a quick battery swap. I think it's time I invest in a AAA membership. God forbid I got stuck in Brooklyn or something. Does anybody have any ideas for testing for a short or slow drain?

 

[Mark E.]

Does the volt light on the dash come on with the key on and the engine not running? If the bulb is bad it can cause the battery to not charge.

HTH
David

Answering this question is key.

You are not charging.

Could be alternator, could be a bulb.

Oh yeah, sounds like you have the amp draw test desribed, just check for amps, not volts. 0.1 is ok, much over that could be part of your problem. Make sure all lights, ect are off.

Mark E.

 

[Ormand]

It looks like a rats nest under the dash and firewall.

I thought that was standard?

 

[99ssconv]

Yeah I know, $180 bucks...That's why I took the chance with a quick battery swap. I think it's time I invest in a AAA membership. God forbid I got stuck in Brooklyn or something. Does anybody have any ideas for testing for a short or slow drain?

You will need a voltmeter capable of measuring current in the milliamp scale.
remove the negative battery cable from the battery, connect one end of the meter to the loose cable and the other to the battery, the current will flow through the meter and be read on the screen. Typically you should see no more than a 23ma draw with everything off. Good Luck, sounds like your alt just took a dump on you, my old GN did the same exact thing to my wife driving it, just died, no lights or warnings signs, at least thats what she said.