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green pea, need direction, blown head gasket

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ls7killer

New Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Messages
14
:confused:
I just purchased an 87 turbo regal, it is 100% stock with 59k miles. I have managed to break it in two days. Long story short, i am going to tear it down and I cant put it back together with the stock heads, I am going to install Champion iron heads.
The question is which injectors, pump and reg should I run? I will have to use the stock turbo and exhaust for now.
I was told by the previous owner he just changed gas tank and fuel pump, it seems its very difficult to put fuel in the car, I can only squeeze the handle about 20% or it will puke gas all over. My point being, it seems there may be a venting issue. I checked the gas cap after making a pull and it had a large vacuum on it. I thought this may have caused a vapor lock which in turn leaned it out and pushed out the head gasket. Any thoughts?


Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Fix what cause the problem first. Check your fuel evaporation canister lines, making sure none are pinched. Check the fuel filter, and the the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Making sure it rises 1:1 under boost (when fixed obviously).If the previous own just installed a new tank and pump, something may have been damaged during the install. I'd drop the tank and start from there.

Once that's fixed, if coolant is in the oil, check the bearings, antifreeze eats bearings.

Why can't you use the stock heads? Pull them and make sure they aren't warped, clean, re-use. Unless you have a goal in mind.
 
My gas cap lid has allways had pressure on it.If driving the car stop for gas unscrewing the gas lid I could allways hear a pressure release never caused a lean condition for me @25 lbs. of boost 93+ alky so I don't think that caused your lean condition
 
The gas tank is not supose to vent to the atmosphere. That's what the charcoal canister is suposed to be for.

As far as changing things on the car for more performance please do some research before you go any further and decide on a goal so you can get the right parts. If you just start throwing parts at it then you won't be happy and bitch about the car. You have to work it up as a package so everything works together as a unit, not piece by piece.
 
Do.....DO.......install ported heads. NOTHING wrong with doing that at this point. But, if money is tight, then go with a turbo instead. I ran 11.77@112 with stock turbo, stock injectors, stock intercooler (ported inlet) and a 2.5" dump off the turbo and ported heads and a bigger cam (flat tappet). Heads and cam do make a nice improvement even with stock components. IF you have access to porting tools, you can do a fair job yourself just with pocket porting and even using stock valves. There's 30 horsepower just in pocket porting and gasket match if you're careful. I modify the stock intake valves by back cutting the huge lip on the valve face and adding a 30* back cut on the exhaust valves.
 
with head upgrade can i use stock injectors? The main reason for the head upgrade is I was going to do it later down the line, but now I have to pull the heads, I just cant avoid upgrading now.
 
Do you have a scanmaster to monitor things? I wouldn't try it though your upgrading parts might as well get some 60lb injectors and a turbotweak chip.
 
Honestly I was where you are about 2 months ago. I've done a ton of reading on this site and have a good understanding of these motors. You need to figure out what you want to do with your car auto cross, drag race, driver, or a mix of them. then build your motor just a tad more powerful than you need it so that you dont have to upgrade already upgraded parts to go faster. My build still isn't done but Ken(turbo fabricator) has guided me pretty well. Other members via pm have helped me out a ton also.

You have to choose a goal so others can help you achieve it.
 
inmo you should inverst in some scanning devices and start to moniter things more carefully,this way no guessing.ex wideband o2 and or a scanmaster
 
hi guys, here is an update, purchased a set of Champion irons, T64E Turbo
P-Trim/Big Shaft
3" Inlet / 2.5 Out
65# injectors
now, here is what I am planning on buying soon,
scanmaster
9.5 ptc (single or multi disc?)
which header set up?
fuel pump (whose?)
and most importantly, what are all the little tricks that I should do, keep in mind, the car is 100% stock
thanks to everyone who has responded.
 
9.5 ptc non lock up
TA headers if yours are too bad to be welded again
Deatschwerks fuel pump
translator so you can run a better maf
Are you doing anything with the cam or exhaust,
 
9.5 ptc non lock up
TA headers if yours are too bad to be welded again
Deatschwerks fuel pump
translator so you can run a better maf
Are you doing anything with the cam or exhaust,
my headers are fine, just use them? do they support a good bit of hp?
I kinda though of keeping it a lock up to retain overdrive, ? idk
Bison recommended a cam
 
Keep your stock headers if not cracked! Save the money and buy an ALKY kit!!! That should be second on your list jast after the scantool......
 
Keep your stock headers if not cracked! Save the money and buy an ALKY kit!!! That should be second on your list jast after the scantool......
actually, I have an alky kit (alky control) I think, from my foxbody, Im going to rob it , I also have a wideband
 
Headers they say are good down to around 10.5s before they just start falling apart. If your headers are fine use them any hairline cracks have welded. You can have non lock up and overdrive. they say its about a 300 rpm difference between a lock up and a "good" non lock up.
 
Headers they say are good down to around 10.5s before they just start falling apart. If your headers are fine use them any hairline cracks have welded. You can have non lock up and overdrive. they say its about a 300 rpm difference between a lock up and a "good" non lock up.
oh, is the non lock up lighter?
 
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