Guidance on my quest for more power

Im not on alky because I run e85. I have the basic trans upgrades from CK (shift kit, TC solenoid, bottom feed filter, etc). I will do a full build on it when I hurt it.

How much are those 44s going for? I really might consider that. What hp do that cap out at and at what boost pressure on the typical stock longblock gn?

57lbs/min. Maybe 500hp (at the crank on stock heads) I had all in and was able to get 38psi manifold. Imo a waste on E85. MFS 6266, 120 seat pressure springs, and run it in till you are going to be out of fuel.


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If you like doing things in steps I would say it will be hard to avoid getting two different turbos. If you want to get a bigger turbo you'll need to get a converter to take advantage of it. You can get a 44 now and spool up pretty decent with the stock converter and then upgrade to a different converter down the road on the loose side getting ready for a bigger turbo and/or heads/cam down the road. You can take the 44 off and sell it for close to what you paid for and its not a big deal.

You can get a downpipe now but it won't make much difference on a stock turbo. I'd wait to do the downpipe with the turbo anyway because when you break all the bolts off removing the stock downpipe it will be less of a headache and makes sense.

You can go bigger on the turbo but to take big advantage of it and make the most power and have great spoolup I believe thats a good time have the heads/cam done before. Somewhere in this is a good time to upgrade the intercooler too. You can take a 44 down to high 10s/low 11s on heads/cam and then upgrade the turbo after and be deep into the 10s.

That being said, I have a 67 BB turbo on my truck with stock heads/cam because I'm an idiot. I also have a PTC 9.5" converter. I have the tune where it spools up halfway decent but it does hit hard mid range. Just not enough flow to spool up down low. Once I do heads/cam it will all match up nicely.

This is how I'd do it:
1. 44 or similar turbo that will spool decent on stock converter along with downpipe high 11s
2. new converter with an eye on what your next plans will be mid 11s
3. upgrade IC mid 11s
4. heads/cam low 11s
5. plenum/throttle body low 11s
5. make sure fuel system up to snuff low 11s
6. headers low 11s
7. bigger turbo mid 10s
8. upgraded internals low 10s+

You'd have to upgrade the suspension along the way too of course and can go cheap to crazy on that end. Making smart weight loss upgrades makes sense too. Most people change the plenum and throttle body early on because its easy but I doubt it makes much difference. Stock headers can go fast too and it will depend on how many times you need to weld cracks before you get tired and upgrade them.

Making small changes you'll have a lot of fun and see what works. Good luck.
 
57lbs/min. Maybe 500hp (at the crank on stock heads) I had all in and was able to get 38psi manifold. Imo a waste on E85. MFS 6266, 120 seat pressure springs, and run it in till you are going to be out of fuel.


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My fuel system should be good for 750 flywheel (limited by my injectors). (RT twin 340s, RT lines, 120# injectors)

I never expected you to suggest a 6266!

I need to go roller to get 120# seat, right? until I do that, I am guessing I am limited to a certain manifold pressure?
How much are we looking at for the MFS ? What converter (for the street)? Will the converter still be good when I do heads?

Thanks.
 
My fuel system should be good for 750 flywheel (limited by my injectors). (RT twin 340s, RT lines, 120# injectors)

I never expected you to suggest a 6266!

I need to go roller to get 120# seat, right? until I do that, I am guessing I am limited to a certain manifold pressure?
How much are we looking at for the MFS ? What converter (for the street)? Will the converter still be good when I do heads?

Thanks.
I meant shimming stock heads springs to 120 seat. At 35+psi with a good converter you will still be up around 5400-5500rpm. Out the back. You could easily squeak by on a 6262 even after heads but there's a little more with the larger turbine on e85 but mid 10's still a walk in the park. Could use a re-contoured Garrett housing on a 62 turbine though it wouldn't be optimal once heads and cam are done but could be switched out later. Converter can be spec so that it won't hurt e.t. Much at all with stock heads but will work really well with heads and cam. Stock heads and cam 4300-4800 operating range with moderate use of a small turbo. If you go big on the turbo you can extend usable rpm some but the gains will be smaller once you start getting manifold pressure up in the 30's. 30 to 35 might net 2mph in the quarter where 20-25 was 3-4mph. The heads are a huge bottleneck. I'd rather be forced to run a stock exhaust outlet elbow and down pipe and use whatever turbo, heads, and converter I want than have to work around stock heads. They really suck that bad. With stock heads we've been 35+psi on a 62 and the turbo wasn't out but was definitely not as happy running at the high pressure ratio. I've gotten a 62 all in around 30psi on a 8.3:1 engine but good heads. The heads are huge when trying to go from 11.0 and beyond. It's possible to run 10's at full weight on stock heads but very few have and no point in it unless that's your goal. You will probably spend a lot more on other stuff to get it done on stock heads. Message me for turbo and converter price. 3-5 day lead on converters


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PM, sent thank you.
I forgot to ask if my stock head gaskets are the next week link? at what point?
 
PM, sent thank you.
I forgot to ask if my stock head gaskets are the next week link? at what point?
If they aren't leaking don't touch them! Lol

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what kind of egts are we talking about here with no intercooler on a gn?and im not talking about a quick blip of the throttle but street driven.only no intercooled setup I see are race cars running pure methanol all other street cars even the ones running e85 up here have intercoolers.fellas keep in mind that the op has stock heads/motor and a shift kit in the trans.
 
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