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Hard Block???

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1chance

Active Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2007
Messages
1,855
Im thinking of putting a little Hard block in my 4.1 build. Do you put it in with the engine level, or do you tilt the engine until the cylinder it pointing straight up, and down??
 
hard block

Do one side @ a time
Rotate the eng. untill the deck is level BOTH way.
Hard block and torque the head down ( with gasket )
Let it sit for 24 then do other side.
 
How streetable is a half filled block? If it is does it over heat or have any other problems when being driven on the street?
 
I've been told after using the Hard block its good to start the machine work. I also know of a stage II block that was filled up to the drain plugs and it runs very cool with no problems.
 
almost all the heat is on the top of the cylinder so the motor should run close to the same temp. only fill to the bottom of the freeze plugs
 
I've been meaning to do this while my motor is out. What brand fill would be recommended?
 
Why !!!

All of a sudden everyone is wanting to hard block???? Why, what good do you think it will do? Have you looked at a cross section of a block? Do you know that the top 2/3 is cooled by water and the bottom 1/3 with oil splash? You will be hard blocking the middle third. How do you think that heat is going to get away? I had a hard blocked block once and never again. I have an oil temp gage and you oil will definately run hotter, which in turn equals lower oil pressure. Unless there is some off the wall reason, I would not do it. Once it is in it is not coming out.
 
Without a girdle I think this would really strengthen the block. The main concern I had was the oil heating up like mentioned, especially with the turbo in these cars. Was your hard blocked motor a 109? I'm familiar with doing this to the normal V8s, but I would be interested in hearing more about water and oil temps from people that have done this on a high power 109 that was street driven. Maybe before and after comparisons?
 
The inlet and outlets to the water pump are located very low in the water jacket on our blocks. Because of this you CANNOT do a half fill without blocking most of the inlet/outlet openings. If you fill just to the bottom of the openings then you will fall way short of a half fill. You may end up with ~1" of hardblock in there. If you want bottom end strength then girdle it.
 
A half fill is definitely worth it. Greatly improves ring seal on a 4.1. Modeling clay does a very nice job of making a water passage with a half fill. You do have to drill the steam holes between the cyliners just like Stage II 4.1's when you half fill a stock block 4.1.
 
A half fill is definitely worth it. Greatly improves ring seal on a 4.1. Modeling clay does a very nice job of making a water passage with a half fill. You do have to drill the steam holes between the cyliners just like Stage II 4.1's when you half fill a stock block 4.1.
I dont understand, whats the Clay for? Im dont know if half fill will be what im doing, i just need a little for the bottom. I really think if the oil pan had the same thick metal that the 3.8 pan came with i wouldnt need that.
 
The clay maintanes a water passage, because a half fill will cover the holes in the block where the water pump bolts up. The metal in the 3.8 pan was to prevent distortion for the original rubber pan gasket that was used. It does nothing to provide strength to the block.
 
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