have any knowledgeable folks taken the time to list??

[HOFSGNX]

What does the BLM do/mean? What #'s should I look for? Can this be done with the Scanmaster?

Can the IAC be measured with the Scanmaster?

Most of my Spring cleaning is done except for this type of calibrating. Sounds like I should take care of the crankcase/valve cover breathers and get a 160 degree thermostat as well. I am new to this stuff on the TTA so want to do it right. Goal for this 8K car is to keep as a stock/easily return to stock in the 12's on street tires and stay low miles. Thanks guys!

 

[Quiky One]

What does the BLM do/mean? What #'s should I look for? Can this be done with the Scanmaster?

Can the IAC be measured with the Scanmaster?

Most of my Spring cleaning is done except for this type of calibrating. Sounds like I should take care of the crankcase/valve cover breathers and get a 160 degree thermostat as well. I am new to this stuff on the TTA so want to do it right. Goal for this 8K car is to keep as a stock/easily return to stock in the 12's on street tires and stay low miles. Thanks guys!

BLM-block learn..should be +-128 at idle. BLM's are how much the computer has to compensate for fuel from what the chip has written on it. If its higher than 128 then its lean and the computer is adding fuel. If its lower than 128 the its rich and the computer is pulling fuel. Yes both BLM and IAC can be monitored through the scanmaster. Get a K&N filter for the VC. I would get a turbotweak chip and thermostat before you start beating on the car.

HTH Jason

 

[Quiky One]

http://secure.johnsperformance.com/...412.23529*--3WH&p_id=0030&xm=on&ppinc=search2

Jason

 

[HOFSGNX]

Head Gasket Blown??

Set TPS to .46. Check WOT via hard runs on the street. Shows 4.52. However I think I blew my driver's side head gasket. Please read other post. HELP!

 

[Quiky One]

For future reference, you can check the WOT TPS by sitting in your garage with the ingnition on/motor off. You should NEVER EVER go wot without having the scanmaster on the knock o2 reading....

Jason

 

[prokeep15]

I vote this to be a "sticky topic"

 

[1BADDAM]

Now for removing the MAF screen I'm going to have to disagree with everyone on this mod. I have had friends who descreened their MAF and actually run into problems with it reading correctly. I believe that the MAF was made to read with the screens on and the resitrictions there in order to read correctly. If you're going to say that you're just removing the screen after the actual sensor, I still believ that it was made to read with the slight backpressure that is caused by that screen being there. It really isn't going to make really any difference because the holes are fairly large in it and your air filter probably restricts airflow more than your MAF.

I agree. But the screens don't really restrict airflow, more than they provide a laminar flow of air across the foil bridge in the MAF.

 

[HOFSGNX]

What is the best way to adjust WOT - top or bottom? - towards the nose or rear of the car? I am showing 4.52 right now and need to get to 4.70.

My throttle speed adjustment screw is all the way back and I still am around 625 RPM's, how do I get this down to 550RPM's with the car in drive, using parking brake and blocked.

How do you clear the memory on these TTA's, I know how on the Buick - it is the connector near the battery.

How do you put the car in diagnostic mode to read code 12 - by the way I am using the minimum air procedure from John's Performance. http://www.89tta.com/airrate.htm

 

[Razor]

Nothing wrong with 4.52. Leave that alone.

You adjust minimum air rate with a scanmaster. Look at IAC and then give it more or less screw to get the IAC set correctly. DO NOT FOLLOW THAT STUPID PROCEDURE WHERE YOU DISCONNECT THE IAC AND JUMP THE PINS.. it will never be rite.

The chip sets your idle speed. You dont. You set minimum air rate with screw on throttle body looking at IAC numbers. IAC number at zero.. close blade.. IAC numbers at 70.. open blade.. 1/4 - 1/2 turn at a time until the engine stabilizes. Everytime you move the screw.. reset your TPS. target IAC at 20 engine in park no accessories running, in other words AC off, lights off, etc..

Oil in IC, turbo, lines, TB, etc.. get that cleaned out.

FWIW.. 7800 miles means nothing to me.. thats 30000+ 1/4 mile passes :wink:

Re-read this 20 times until it settles in the brain

And quit changing **** on the car, your digging a bigger hole. Leave the stock WG stuff alone. Your spooling probs need to have the car in tune first.. remember the IAC setting.. DUHHH.. once the numbers are correct on the scanmaster.. the drivability is correct.. then proceed to beat on it.

Hate to say it, beating on a car that settings are not correct is a perfect recipe to blow your **** up.

Where's Grumpy :wink:

 

[Grumpy]

I am right here ... this thread is OLD ... welcome to 2006 .. keep it simple and stupid !!! 12s are nothing .. ran that with chip and an air cleaner with Dot's (in 1989) . you are ****ing with the car ...don't turn this an that .. if I don't sell my stock 43k TTA in a few weeks I am goin to put a chip, K&N ,scanmaster and a Alky kit and see where it goes .. how much simpler can ya get

 

[Quiky One]

I am right here ... this thread is OLD ... welcome to 2006 .. keep it simple and stupid !!! 12s are nothing .. ran that with chip and an air cleaner with Dot's (in 1989) . you are ****ing with the car ...don't turn this an that .. if I don't sell my stock 43k TTA in a few weeks I am goin to put a chip, K&N ,scanmaster and a Alky kit and see where it goes .. how much simpler can ya get

Listen to Grumpy..He's done it a time or to :tongue: . Seriously, leave the car alone. Why do you want to adjust the idle speed down 75 RPM's?????

Jason

 

[Razor]

Listen to Grumpy..He's done it a time or to :tongue: . Seriously, leave the car alone. Why do you want to adjust the idle speed down 75 RPM's?????

Jason

Too late.. the messing with screw settings has started.

Like a 69 Camaro... has a problem.. first thing is loosen the distributor and start screwing around with it then get the flat screwdriver and start messing with the idle air screws then decide it needs a new carburator.. while all along all it needed was a set of plugs.

NEVER EVER EVER EVER TOUCH SETTINGS UNLESS YOU HAVE DATA TO SUPPORT THE CHANGES :redface:

The worm hole gets deeper.. time to get the car to a professional.

 

[Quiky One]

You probably think everyone on here including my self is a prick, we're really not we just are frustrated to see a perfect car blown, or ruined. I have yet to see scanmaster numbers??? You are approaching to many problems at once. You went from IAC to BLM to transmission to motor chugging to blown headgasket to TPS to slow spoolup......etc. Fix one thing then move on to the next.

My $0.02 Jason

 

[HOFSGNX]

Thanks guys, good advice. I do want to keep it simple.

How do you reset the memory? I know where the connector is on the GN that you unplug wait a few seconds and then plug back in (up near the battery). Where is it on this car? Is it that larger connector up near the battery?

I will reset the IAC adjustment screw back to where it was and start over. I will then try to get the IAC reading at 20 with engine running in park, no accesories on. Then go on to TPS trying to keep at .046 (with engine running of course) and then on to WOT (engine off, key rolled forward) at 4.70.

What about the step where you unplug the IAC wire connector - is that neccesary?

 

[Quiky One]

Thanks guys, good advice. I do want to keep it simple.

How do you reset the memory? I know where the connector is on the GN that you unplug wait a few seconds and then plug back in (up near the battery). Where is it on this car? Is it that larger connector up near the battery?

I will reset the throttle body adjustment screw back to where it was and start over - this is the screw on the driver's side of the throttle body right? I will then try to get the IAC reading at 20 with engine running in park, no accesories on. Then go on to TPS trying to keep at .046 (with engine running of course) and then on to WOT (engine off, key rolled forward) at 4.70.

What about the step where you unplug the IAC wire connector - is that neccesary?

Unplug the battery to reset the computer. Why reset it tho? Don't screw with the TPS-4.52 is WOT to the computer. Don't mess with the IAC unless the car is stalling. You dont unplug the IAC wire connector. But if you are having issues, your numbers you are aiming for are right.

Jason

 

[Razor]

Computer plug is next to battery.. follow the red smaller diameter wires leading from the +post..

Got that scanmaster in it yet?

 

[HOFSGNX]

OK Guys, Here are the #'s

Here are the numbers after cleaning the UP pipe and the throttle body:

At hot idle:

bL = 129
RPM = 775
tPS = .42-.44 at idle WOT = 4.30 engine off, key on
IAC = 16

What is the best way to get tps for WOT at 4.6-4.8?

Anything else diagnostic that you guys are looking for?

 

[1BADDAM]

What is the best way to get tps for WOT at 4.6-4.8?

Why do you need to do this ?

For most chips, (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) all PE fueling multipliers are identical after 75% of TPS and above.

 

[HOFSGNX]

All the research out there shows tPS at 4.6 - 4.8 for WOT, thought I should set it there. What is the way to move the tPS to get that without screwing up the .42 at idle?

The other numbers look fine, correct?

 

[Grumpy]

All the research out there shows tPS at 4.6 - 4.8 for WOT, thought I should set it there. What is the way to move the tPS to get that without screwing up the .42 at idle?

The other numbers look fine, correct?

little hint ... my brand new 11 sec 89 TTA was .38 and 4.38 when it was new (6 miles on it)