Having problems building boost

[RUQWKNF]

I just had a customer with similar issues as yours.

He bought the new replacement Y fitting with hoses pre-installed from a reputable vendor. Upon further investigation it was found that his new Grey Y fitting had the restricter in the wrong leg from GM, when compared to his old Grey Y fitting.

If you still have your factory Grey Y fitting, look and see if the restrictor in it, is in a different leg than the new one you just received. If it is, it's a simple matter of using your old Grey Y. If they are identical, than I would suspect, as others have said, that there is an issue with your puck and or wastegate actuator.

I can tell you, it is very hard, almost impossible, for a heavy duty actuator to run boost lower than 18psi with nothing being done to the wastegate hole in the turbine housing. Especially down to 5-7psi. The spring rate on our heavy duty actuators starts at 18psi.

My bet is, it's the new replacement Grey Y fitting you just installed.
Let us know what you find.

Patrick

 

[87LimitedT]

It's a HD actuator...18 psi.

Remove your stock waste gate bleeder (the solenoid) and run a vacuum line from the actuator to the turbo, that should give you 18 psi. Post back what you find.

Will do, Thanks.

I just had a customer with similar issues as yours.

He bought the new replacement Y fitting with hoses pre-installed from a reputable vendor. Upon further investigation it was found that his new Grey Y fitting had the restricter in the wrong leg from GM, when compared to his old Grey Y fitting.

If you still have your factory Grey Y fitting, look and see if the restrictor in it, is in a different leg than the new one you just received. If it is, it's a simple matter of using your old Grey Y. If they are identical, than I would suspect, as others have said, that there is an issue with your puck and or wastegate actuator.

I can tell you, it is very hard, almost impossible, for a heavy duty actuator to run boost lower than 18psi with nothing being done to the wastegate hole in the turbine housing. Especially down to 5-7psi. The spring rate on our heavy duty actuators starts at 18psi.

My bet is, it's the new replacement Grey Y fitting you just installed.
Let us know what you find.

Patrick

I still have the original one.

 

[fbodlovr]

Just subscribing! =-)

 

[87LimitedT]

It's a HD actuator...18 psi.

Remove your stock waste gate bleeder (the solenoid) and run a vacuum line from the actuator to the turbo, that should give you 18 psi. Post back what you find.

yep it was right at 18, can i leav it on this way and add a boostcontroller in the line to help with spool up or do i need it hooked up to the boost solenoid?

 

[fbodlovr]

I PROMISE I am not trying to hijack your thread, but im curious to know if the stock selinoids can cause boosting issues?!?! I have had some trouble with building boost, but with the stock turbo and adjustable actuator. So, you can go straight from the turbo to the actuator, take out that y, and be ok?? what is the point of the y and selinoid then?!?!

 

[RUQWKNF]

Yes, you can run a straight piece of hose from the comp cover hose barb, directly to the wastegate actuator and run it this way from now until the Solar Flare comes. Just as long as you leave the electrical connector, connected to the wastegate solenoid you're good. If you disconnect the electrical connector and go WOT, the ECM will trip a trouble code for wastegate solenoid malfunction.

So, leaving it electrically connected and letting it do it's thing, even without any hoses attached to it is completely ok. Did it for years myself.
Running a single hose from the turbo to wastegate actuator is what is called "Tuner Style". Only way to adjust boost with this method, is to shorten or lengthen the actuator rod, or run a bleeder valve in that hose, such as the RJC Boost Controller. Running tuner style with a boost controller like this, can also help decrease spool up quiet a bit.

BoostC

Just so you know, the 23+ year old factory wastegate solenoid can crap out on you when you least expect it. But when they do, they typically will pop the ECM/SOL fuse in the fuse box. At least the ones I had fail on me did.

Also, if the wastegate solenoid pulse width setting in the chip is not properly adjusted in the programming, (IE: reconfigured / recalibrated ) for use with a Heavy Duty wastegate actuator, your boost level can also do crazy things.
Hope this helps.

Patrick

 

[vacuum 6]

I ditched the factory solenoid about 5 years ago, electrical tape the connection, and no codes to this day!

Ditch the factory wastegate solenoid and like Patrick said get the below.

RJCRacing The leaders in Buick Performance and Innovation

BTW - how is the turbo spooling?

 

[87LimitedT]

I ditched the factory solenoid about 5 years ago, electrical tape the connection, and no codes to this day!

Ditch the factory wastegate solenoid and like Patrick said get the below.

RJCRacing The leaders in Buick Performance and Innovation

BTW - how is the turbo spooling?

I just got one not a rjc one though but should do the same, Im not to happy with the spool up but then again im still having problems else were that is hurting it, but it does feel like it has so much more power than the stock one it feels like it just want to keep on pulling the more i put my foot into it.

How big of a difference does a boost controller like the rjc one make with spool up?

 

[vacuum 6]

How big of a difference does a boost controller like the rjc one make with spool up?

I noticed a big difference.

 

[87LimitedT]

well I try adjusting the wg to add a little more and it just wouldn’t build anything at all I then put on the manual boost controller I got on and it still does the same I think I’m just going to put the stock turbo back on this is getting very frustrating.

 

[Pronto]

Make sure you don't have an exhaust leak below the turbo. When I changed my turbo I did and had to use a gasket to stop the leak.

 

[GNRick]

When I bought my GN from the 2nd owner, it had a TE60 and stock converter. Not only couldn't I build any boost, I couldn't even do a burn out! I floored the car with one foot on the brake but it just sat there. Nada. Nothing. Sound familiar? I had the transmission rebuilt and put in a 3200 stall Vigilante converter. Now burn outs are no problem. However, on my vacuum/boost gauge, when it gets to 0 vacuum, the car wants to push. So I think I need a 2800 stall, but maybe not. When I floor it on the street, I notice that the boost doesn't kick in until 3200 rpm. I now have a 6157 turbo, recommended by Mike Licht. I plan on going to the track later in August to get some times.

 

[87LimitedT]

Make sure you don't have an exhaust leak below the turbo. When I changed my turbo I did and had to use a gasket to stop the leak.

well I was looking at it this morning after work and was going to switch them out and noticed the gasket going to the manifold was blown out so I’m just going to switch it out this weekend to see if this is the problem.

 

[we4Mateo]

My stock converter spools my 44 great with the RJC boost controller and HD actuator. The RJC controller is the main reason I can stick with the stock converter IMO. If it just would do more than 5lbs on the brakes at the track, I'd stick with the old D5.

 

[87LimitedT]

Well I changed the manifold to turbo gasket and put the boost controller on, do I need to make sure the waist gate is to its lowest setting cause it seems to shoot up in boost and pop and sputter real bad when I get on it, could that be adjusted to high?

 

[vacuum 6]

Well I changed the manifold to turbo gasket and put the boost controller on, do I need to make sure the waist gate is to its lowest setting cause it seems to shoot up in boost and pop and sputter real bad when I get on it, could that be adjusted to high?

Do what I said in post #20 and advise.