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HD Rocker Arm Shafts- WTF Happenned?

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Lack of lube is definitely a possibility, but I think it would likely show some blueing (heat damage) on the rocker shafts themselves where the wear is severe. In these pics the shafts look like they have been running relatively cool.
 
Lack of lube is definitely a possibility, but I think it would likely show some blueing (heat damage) on the rocker shafts themselves where the wear is severe. In these pics the shafts look like they have been running relatively cool.


There is no blueing or discoloration on the shafts themselves, but cyl. #1 exhaust and cyl. #6 exhaust got hot enough to melt the plastic rocker arm retainer plugs.

John
 
looking at that damage, i'd think that there would be a lot of squeeling noises coming from the valve cover area..
 
Sorry to hear John, my recommendation would be to take both factory shafts and those aftermarket shafts to a local tool and die shop, many shops will have a "Rockwell" hardness tester, I'm betting you will have your answer after a hardness test, whether faulty material/workmanship or oiling issue related, good luck.

Kevin.
 
Rocker shaft assembly

I have these if you need them. I'm a diemaker and can tell you these are hardened, probably stress relieved.
New Napa HD rocker shafts & rockers, $100 never used,went to TA rollers.
RJC braces are sold.
Mart
urbanm84@sbcglobal.net
 

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hd rocker arms

I ran mine for about 7 years..Finally broke one this year with 72 turbo..,but only the shaft broke on mine,no wear issues..I replace with stock rockers and heavy duty rocker supports from jason at rjc and have had no more problems to date..and the valve train is quiet with the stock rockers over the heavy duty ones for some reason..
 
Thanks Rick. I had just installed an oil pressure sending unit when I put the heads/turbo on, but had not hooked up the gauge yet :( I can tell you that the oil "idiot light" never blinked or came on.

Does the oil light come on with "key on, engine off"?
 
John,

When you put the oil sender in for the gauge, did you remove the factory sender?

Sorry to ask but do you know how to prime your oil system and did you do so after the motor work?

Any other damage found yet?
 
John,

When you put the oil sender in for the gauge, did you remove the factory sender?

Sorry to ask but do you know how to prime your oil system and did you do so after the motor work?

Any other damage found yet?

Rick, I put a "t" on the original oil sender/turbo feed block for the oil psi gauge sender.

I must confess- I didn't prime the engine after the work I did. It was only down for a couple weeks- I didn't think that I needed to. I don't know how to do it on a Buick- Is the procedure similar to a SB Chevy?

My asst manager is taking the shafts up to MN State University Mankato today and hardness testing them in the engineering lab (He's an AET student there). At least we will know if soft shafts were a contributing factor to my oiling problems.

John
 
P.S. No other damage found- yet. I haven't been out working on the car since I took the shafts off the other day.

I'm just so frustrated after doing all that work for nothing, it seems......

John
 
My asst manager is taking the shafts up to MN State University Mankato today and hardness testing them in the engineering lab (He's an AET student there). At least we will know if soft shafts were a contributing factor to my oiling problems.

John

There ya go.
 
P.S. No other damage found- yet. I haven't been out working on the car since I took the shafts off the other day.

I'm just so frustrated after doing all that work for nothing, it seems......

John

Drop the oil pan and you will find the missing shaft material. Speaking from experience I am.
 
My asst manager is taking the shafts up to MN State University Mankato today and hardness testing them in the engineering lab (He's an AET student there). At least we will know if soft shafts were a contributing factor to my oiling problems.

John

Any update on what the Rockwell hardness test revealed?

Neal
 
Rick, I put a "t" on the original oil sender/turbo feed block for the oil psi gauge sender.

I must confess- I didn't prime the engine after the work I did. It was only down for a couple weeks- I didn't think that I needed to. I don't know how to do it on a Buick- Is the procedure similar to a SB Chevy?

My asst manager is taking the shafts up to MN State University Mankato today and hardness testing them in the engineering lab (He's an AET student there). At least we will know if soft shafts were a contributing factor to my oiling problems.

John

John,

Oil pump primes similar to a sbc. You pull the cam sensor and use a prime tool on a drill.

Depending on if the front cover was removed or the oil system disturbed, would depend on if the oil pump needed to be primed. How far did you tear it down?

Being optimistic, I don't think the rest of the motor would have made it 400 miles without oil pressure so chances are this is isolated. A motor with no oil pressure would be making noise right from the get go.

You can do a simple home hardness test with a punch and a hammer. If the metal dents easy, it not hard. On hardened metal, the punch would deflect off without leaving much a mark. Test the stock shafts the same way for a comparison.
 
A file makes a good hardness tester too. If it skates off with just a hissing sound, the piece is hardened. If it digs and chips come off, you found your problem.

If you do this test, don't try it on the gouged out areas. They won't be hard even if they were hardened.
 
Any updates?

Not much at this point Rick. I've been pumping gallons of clean oil thru the engine, Using the priming tool that I bought. I bought (4) oil filters and have been changing them out - Hoping to catch as much metal particles as I can. I also bought a magnetic drain plug for the oilpan (It has been picking up some metal particles).

I pulled out the old lifters and installed some new ones- So I could check out how much oil was flowing thru them. They seem to have a lot of oil flowing out as I spin the oil pump over. I'll double check again once I have the pushrods and rockers/shafts installed.

Once I button up the top end, I'll pull the oil pan to clean it out and I have a new oil pickup to install at that time.

It's a long shot that this will work, But I really have nothing to loose. Best case, I'll be able to drive the car some more this year and save up for a "proper" engine rebuild. Worse case- I'll need a new shortblock and have to park the car a little sooner this year :( .

John
 
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