1. Don't forget the thread sealer on the bolt threads. These extend into the water jackets, and WILL LEAK if they aren't sealed. Permatex Ultra Copper is a popular choice.
As for the amound of sealer to use:
With the bare block deck exposed (no gasket), use just enough sealer on the threads so that when one is hand-tightened into the block, sealer JUST begins to protrude onto the deck. Do this a couple of times until you get a feel for how much it takes (and it doesn't take much.) Don't get any on the bottom of the bolt, or it'll be floating around your cooling system.
2. When applying oil to the bottom of the bolt heads, do it with a paintbrush. If you apply too much, oil will run down the bolt hole in the head, and get between the gasket and the head, or between the gasket and the block.
3. Torquing...yes, it's a pain in the @$$ if the engine's in the car. If you have to use any universal joints while torquing, add 15% to the total torque applied TO THAT FASTENER ONLY to account for the U-joint's parasitic loss.
4. The best possible torquing method takes a lot of time, but depends on your fastener.
If using aftermarket (non Torque-to-Yield, i.e. ARP)
a. Use the standard Buick pattern for each gasket.
b. Hand-tighten.
c. Torque in 5 Ft/Lb increments from there, following your torque pattern.
d. When you reach 70 Ft/Lb, stop. Wait at least 12 hours. Torque +5 Ft/Lb. Repeat 3 times until you reach 85 Ft/Lb.
If you're using stock bolts, you can't reuse them. Buy ARP's, or new Buick units. If you're using new Buick bolts, here's the procedure:
a. Following the proper torque pattern, torque each bolt to 45 Ft/Lb.
b. For each [stock] bolt, turn it an additional 60 degrees clockwise (tighter), or to 60 Ft/Lb...whichever comes first. No retorque is necessary.
Good luck.
