header wrap/ shilds help against hot running engine ?

[frank_ster]

for instance a 1999 gtp the cooling fans rarely come on ! and my rad is near to that size.

 

[groumoutis]

The other issue is the grill size! Impreza's have pretty small grill openings. The electrician I work with had a built STI and that car had very little room with the 2.5 let alone a 3.8.

I would go with a thinner radiator to get more air flow through the radiator. If you are trying to pull air through an intercooler, condenser and a thick radiator you are fighting a losing battle. You need more air flow.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[earlbrown]

taking the trans cooler out of the radiator will give the radiator that many more BTU's to cool the engine.

 

[frank_ster]

The other issue is the grill size! Impreza's have pretty small grill openings. The electrician I work with had a built STI and that car had very little room with the 2.5 let alone a 3.8.

I would go with a thinner radiator to get more air flow through the radiator. If you are trying to pull air through an intercooler, condenser and a thick radiator you are fighting a losing battle. You need more air flow.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

i had a thin radiator same exact as this one but half the thickness and same exact results.

a regal gs or a gtp dont have large openings either.

 

[frank_ster]

taking the trans cooler out of the radiator will give the radiator that many more BTU's to cool the engine.

yes totally agree.. but do i put the trans cooler in front of this rad??

just that you still have the same heat in the same place.

 

[charlief1]

As dumb as it may sound, take the hood off and go for a drive. If it still over heats then it's the cooling system, if not then it's an air flow issue.

 

[rmar]

Yes ceramic can help with under hood temps, yes you need a t-stat, or at least cut the guts out of one for some restriction. I have found RMI helps a few degrees but they all help. Do you have a fan shroud?
Your saying at idle it cools off more then driving which is kinda bass acwards for a engine with heat I issues.

 

[Paul Lohr]

charlief1 has a good idea there - take the hood off and drive it as a test.

Cooling surface area at the radiator seems to have the largest impact on removing heat. Everything else seems to help 5% or less.

If the cooling air can only enter through a 1 square foot area and the radiator is 2 square feet...try to duct the cooling air best you can to the radiator.

 

[frank_ster]

Yes ceramic can help with under hood temps, yes you need a t-stat, or at least cut the guts out of one for some restriction. I have found RMI helps a few degrees but they all help. Do you have a fan shroud?
Your saying at idle it cools off more then driving which is kinda bass acwards for a engine with heat I issues.

driving it cools off.. idle it heats up.

yes i have tried gutted t stats also.

and the electric fans have shrouds

 

[frank_ster]

the turbo subaru's normally have a belly pan also. that i do not have currently installed. I'm looking to get some 1/4 plastic to remake one. see if that helps at all.

 

[Paul Lohr]

Are you running underdrive pulleys on the crank and / or water pump?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

^ its hard to say .. since this rad cools a 2.5 turbo 4 cylinder with zero issues before.
i know its not the same thing but how much heat could a 3.8 possibly make even at idle. over a 2.5 turbo.

Given the 3.8 is 50% more displacement, is the heat +50%, also??? Given the orig rad was designed w/ cost concerns in mind, it would not be overkill, in it's original application.
" but i can force them on but it doesn't help."....That tells me that the rad is not capable of rejecting any more BTU's..

 

[frank_ster]

Are you running underdrive pulleys on the crank and / or water pump?

nope

 

[frank_ster]

Given the 3.8 is 50% more displacement, is the heat +50%, also??? Given the orig rad was designed w/ cost concerns in mind, it would not be overkill, in it's original application.
" but i can force them on but it doesn't help."....That tells me that the rad is not capable of rejecting any more BTU's..

yes the rad is not capable of rejecting any more btu's. what i'm trying to do is fix the root cause. why is the engine producing so much heat. so i have a theory of the headders that are very near to the block are radiating heat to the block its self. thus causing more heat to come out of the cooling system. but is its negligible or substantial headders that are 1000 deg f inches away is producing how many btu's into a cooling system? i have no way of quantifying that.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"yes the rad is not capable of rejecting any more btu's. what i'm trying to do is fix the root cause"

Sounds like you have answered your own question...

 

[frank_ster]

"yes the rad is not capable of rejecting any more btu's. what i'm trying to do is fix the root cause"

Sounds like you have answered your own question...

the root cause is why is the engine making so much heat .. putting a bigger rad is a band-aid solution.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Whatever...........

 

[frank_ster]

and if you read .. i dont have room!

 

[rmar]

All things being correct. You just have to remove more heat, by one or all ways possible. That means a high dollar radiator (if possible). Better fans, coat everything with ceramic and thermal dispersement type coatings. Maybe add some air isolater's or vents.
Good luck

 

[frank_ster]

^ yea looks like ..