Heads/Cam LS1 Camaro SS

[RPM WS6]

Yes, ARE (Agostino) is in Canada, and his stroked and sprayed WS6 is the fastest LS1 I know of at this time.

And I also know of 3 10 sec N/A LS1s that are streetable, and there could be more. The bottle/turbo/charger isn’t the only way to go fast in an LS1 Stephen Sanders is running 10.03 N/A with a MTI 422ci LS1 in a ’00 Z28 that is on the verge of being the first into the 9’s N/A any day now. That is the most impressive LS1 I know of. His race weight is only 3200lbs though...

As for running spray in a 6-speed…If you get a “window” or “rpm” activated switch you won’t over-rev on the spray. This switch cuts the juice on and off at preset rpms so you won’t be spraying past a certain rpm (have it cut off a few hundred rpm before limiter), or at too early an rpm (before you're supplying enough fuel). Anyone spraying a 6-speed would be crazy not to have one.

 

[86brick]

Yeah I'm sure that switch would help the 6spd, but IMO auto or 6pd... N20 is very dangerous and personally I would look to go another route with the LS1... It seems like the big bore big stroke N/A LS1's are the best way to go if your looking for reliability and great performance with the least headaches... BTW, 10.03 is crazy fast for an N/A LS1 powered car, even if the Z only weighs 3200lbs Do you know if that car is street driven or strictly race???

 

[TTA89]

Big Bore Stroker or NOS? Hmmm Ya I guess that would depend if you have 18K to Spend of 1K. Tough Choice

 

[NOGNHERE]

Nitrous really is a safe way to go, you just have to be smart about it. Same with turbos and SC's. A friend of mine just finished his 383 stroker(LT1) and plans to run a 175 shot on it next year. His first 1/4 mile got him a 12.0x @ 116 with 1.9 60'. Its a very mild mannered car that is a daily. Its a 6-spd too.

 

[86brick]

TTA89

What happens when you get a bad batch of gas and you spray that 150 shot??? I know first hand cause my friend had a 355 LT1 Impala SS with heads/cam/intake and a 150 shot on his car, and he sprayed it because the cost of the built 383 LT4 was too much... I agreed with him at first, and I know where your coming from because bang for the buck it CAN be better, but one day he filled up at the local Chevron and ended up racing a newer Cobra the next day and KABOOM... his 7 month old H/C/I 355 LT1 motor was a pile of sh!t now and he was really pissed off to say the least cause he thought the extra $2,000 or so for the 383 LT4 was too much, although, he had to spend much more than that to put it back together... Also I've seen plenty of trannies and rearends break simply cause people ASSUMED it was cheaper, however, they start breaking stuff and end up seeing how cheap it really is I won't debate that N20 is probably the cheapest way to go fast, but plenty of things can go wrong with spray like having a dirty solenoid or running too lean or in my buddies case filling up with some bad gas... BTW, I had no idea the motor was $16,000, but if you want to run low 10's to high 9's I'm sure the N/A motor will live a much longer live off the bottle as well as the rearend and the tranny... Oh yeah, I got NO problem with forced induction as a power adder, but I think it's too expensive on the LS1 motors... I heard Rob has over $60,000 invested in his high 9 second turbo ls1

 

[NOSjohnWE4]

NOS

brick,
NOGNHERE says, "you just have to be smart about it". PERIOD. NOS is just as safe as changing the oil on your car. you have to take care and mind what you're doing. your friend obviously didn't read the instructions (destructions in his case) very good. when levels of NOS reach a certain level, it is HIGHLY recommended that you add HIGH octance gas.
in all my years of driving, i've never got a "bad BATCH OF GAS". where does this batch come from? the cookie store? the pastry shop? unless the gas station owner, who owns a Chevron franchise, poured water in the tank, it's impossible to get a bad tank of gas (water floats on top, pump suction is at the bottom, so...). i'm sure if your friend called and told the local authorities he had a bad tank of gas they would laugh and ask why he thought so...."uh, 'cuz my motor blew up when i sprayed it with Nitrous." i used to work for a Petroleum company so tell me i don't know what i'm talking about. it is HIGHLY illegal and an expensive fine to add ANYTHING to a Petroleum tank. the octane level, at any point in time, can vary 1 to 2 points. gee, no wonder NOS recommends putting in HIGHER octane gas. so your "friend" was at fault...not the gas station, not the NOS kit manufacturer.
So i'm sure you would admit now that GUNS kill people...NO, people kill people. my point is, just like a regular motor, care has to be taken with whatever you do. stupidity can get a lot of people in trouble. a N/A motor can easily sieze if the oil, water and trans. fluid levels are NOT checked on a weekly basis.
In closing, solenoids DO NOT get dirty, there are Pre-Filters and they should be changed or maintained at certain intervals just like the oil and filter on a N/A car. Stupidity hurts, especially when you don't read directions. My brother has run NOS on his 11 second Malibu (chevy 350 -same motor-175 shot) for about 6 years now ...he read the directions.

BTW, i agree that NOS if the cheapest form of horsepower but try filling your bottle 40 or 50 times @ $40 a pop...might as well get a Turbo.

 

[86brick]

NOSjohnWE4

I told my buddy plenty of times to add some octane when spraying, because I know a guy down here who sprays many TRs and he has told me plenty of times that he won't spray unless he has a full tank of C16 race gas in the tank... Unfortunately, my buddy knows a couple guys that have LT1 Camaro's with spray and they told him they spray all the time with a similar amount of happy gas on pump fuel and he listened to them and not me and he ended up paying with his wallet for listening to them and not me, however, I've heard of a couple guys also spraying on pump gas (not sure how much), but like you said it isn't really safe and I'm sure if done right it can be safe... IMHO I still think N20 posses more of a risk because I have seen cars that were mantained properly and were pro cars that ran some serious times and blew up because of the bottle... Much like Alcholics I think some people get a little carried away with the spray and make their motors drink a little too much, and you know that old saying "too much of a good thing is a bad thing" I know it must get pretty addictive going that fast with just a little $40 fill up of the bottle... Kinda of like when I fill my GN up with C16 for about $60... BTW, the "bad batch of gas" is what the mechanic who had to clean up the mess of his motor told him happend cause he has sprayed a 150 shot on his LT1 and has never had any problems... I told him a while back that the gas thing could of been and probably is an excuse made up by the mechanic for his F*ck up, but he insists that the mechanic is not at fault and it probably was a "bad batch of gas"... If it was me I would of went to the gas station and raised holy hell and if that came out negative the mechanic would be getting an ear full from me and I would try to sue the bastard for giving me wrong advise or for some how f*cking up installation of the NOS

 

[NOSjohnWE4]

more NOS please

Brick,
we are right on the money. how come people don't listen? wow, i haven't heard a mechanic use the "bad gas" excuse in a while. LOL yeah, some LT1's and LS1's are spraying their 125 dry kits with pump gas...man, that's scary. later bro'...

 

[RPM WS6]

86brick...

86brick…the 10.03 N/A Z28 is “streetable” as far as I know, but I’m almost positive it hasn’t been daily driven since it was in the 11s. It could be I suppose, but I don't think he wants the extra miles on that motor.

I agree, NOS isn’t the best way to go, IF you have the money for a big cid motor. And yes, most LS1’ers spray dry up to 125 horse. For 150 and above, you HAVE to spray wet.

 

[NOGNHERE]

My friend used 150 DRY shot on the old LT1 motor. He plans to run a bigger dry shot on the 383. Like a 175 I think. He has to upgrade the lines from 3AN he says. Why do you say you have to run a wet shot? I'm just curious, not arguing.

 

[86brick]

NOS

IMO, a 75 shot of N20 wouldn't be that bad on pump gas, but anything over that and I'd have some race gas in the tank just to be on the safe side... RPM WS6 the 10.03 Z28 streetable or not is very impressive, although, I'm sure it is since just about every newer performance car can be made insanely fast and be perfectly streetable... Technology certainly is a beautiful thing As far as him not wanting to put extra miles on the motor I can definitely understand that since those big cid ls1's aren't cheap, but maybe in the future they'll be about has cheap to buy as a 5.0 rustang

 

[RPM WS6]

Dry vs Wet

Originally posted by NOGNHERE
My friend used 150 DRY shot on the old LT1 motor. He plans to run a bigger dry shot on the 383. Like a 175 I think. He has to upgrade the lines from 3AN he says. Why do you say you have to run a wet shot? I'm just curious, not arguing.

The LT1 fuel system is different in the fact that from what I understand an AFPR is available to boost fuel psi on them. You’re friend might not be running stock injectors any more either. The LS1s on the other hand have no available AFPR at this time (at least not that I’m aware of) as the fuel delivery system is quite different. You see, in an LS1 the PCM is only capable of adding 25% more fuel than stock delivery maps provide for, and that is only going to be enough fuel to support a 125 shot in conjunction with the 26lb/hr stock injectors (1998s and ‘01/’02 do have 28lb/hr though) in dry form. LS1s that are spraying dry must do so across the MAF, and the MAF provides the readings to add more fuel (up to 25%) for the extra air density, in conjunction with O2 readings. Now, if you step up the size of the injectors on an LS1 you can run much more dry, but the stock fuel pump should also either be aided by an inline pump, or replaced with a stronger unit. As we all know, dry systems rely on the ability of the PCM to add enough fuel on it’s own to support the N2O, and the stock LS1 system is only adequate until 125 HP on ‘99&’00, or 150HP on ’98,’01, and ’02. Again, bigger injectors would up those numbers and allow for more spray dry. I was just referring to stock injectors (specifically my year, ’00) when I said 125HP was the max dry. Obviously, when spraying wet though, injector output is not as important as it is aided by the extra fuel ‘noid and therefore more popular to those with LS1 that want to spray more than 125 without buying new injectors.

If I were spraying, I’d probably spray dry and just run a window switch, cause I don’t think I like the idea of spraying fuel into an intake that was never designed to flow fuel. The only advantage I can see to wet is not necessarily needed new injectors, and if you hit the rev limiter or something stupid happens the fuel ‘noid should still give you enough fuel to keep the pistons from melting… I don’t know, I guess both have advantages though.

I’m not exactly sure about the LT1 stuff, so I’m not totally sure why they can run more spray dry than us LS1s, but I know that their fuel system is set up differently.

 

[NOGNHERE]

Thanks for the info. I'm sure your right about it. He does in fact run Ford Motorsport 24lbs. injectors. They are a touch bigger than stock 95LT1. As for the AFPR on the LS1, I hear they make one but its kind of a waste. I think the computer catches on an adjust the pressure back to stock. Too bad, because the car makes like 10-15 rwhp before the computer adjusts'. This is what I hear.

 

[RPM WS6]

Originally posted by NOGNHERE
Thanks for the info. I'm sure your right about it. He does in fact run Ford Motorsport 24lbs. injectors. They are a touch bigger than stock 95LT1. As for the AFPR on the LS1, I hear they make one but its kind of a waste. I think the computer catches on an adjust the pressure back to stock. Too bad, because the car makes like 10-15 rwhp before the computer adjusts'. This is what I hear.

That’s interesting; I didn’t know there was an AFPR for LS1s yet. But I can see how/why the PCM would re-adjust which is probably why it’s not a popular mod and I don’t know anyone using it. Our fuel system is VERY PCM controlled, and it doesn’t like “outside” adjustments like that too much! A MAFT (MAF translator) can be used to permanently trick the MAF into adding more fuel, but you’re still limited to the 25% rule.