I am converting to vacuum brakes. How do I get to the top bolt that holds the pm brake pedal. I have removed the bolts that hold the steering column up....do I now need to pull down the steering column and if so, how far can I pull it down? Thanks very much for any assistance.
Help---Brake pedal removal
- Thread starter V6POWER
- Start date
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Jim.........You can pull it down far enough to get your arm over the top with a 5/8" or 16mm wrench on the bolt head. The other side is an 11/16" nut. A little bit of contortion and you'll be able to get it off. 
The challenge is to get the new pedal on.
The challenge is to get the new pedal on. NEWCHAPTER
Need Speed
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2003
I just laid the seat all the way back slid in on my back and crammed myself up into the dash and boy was I sore the next day but I could drive my new car though....
For information, this is how I got the bolt out. I did not lay on the floor on my back. I knelt outside the car and had my armpit laying over the sill area. I leaned inside the car holding a flashlight in my left hand to illuminate the head of the bolt. I then slid an 8" long (longer would be better) 5/8" box end wrench up alongside the brake pedal and placed it over the bolt head. I left the wrench hanging there. (It has tension applied when you turn the nut.) I then took an 8" long 11/16" open end wrench and loosened the nut. I then had to pry the bolt out with a pry bar.
I have the brake pedal and pm unit out now. I also have three of the four nuts off the bolts that hold the backing plate to the firewall. The fourth bolt does not have a nut on it but has a thin, round piece of metal that looks like it was pushed onto the bolt. How do I get this push-type keeper off?
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Jim, the laying on the floor part is when you are putting the pedal in. Anyway, it's out. You're halfway there.
That retainer is a pain to get off sometimes. I use a pair of dikes (wire cutters) and work until I can get a bite on it and.........yank! After repeated "bites" and "yanks", mixed with some curses, it'll come off. Don't put a new one back on.
As I suggest in the instructions, I think it would be a big help to have a helper to install the "new" pedal. That's when the laying on the floor part comes in.
Anyway, it's out. You're halfway there. That retainer is a pain to get off sometimes. I use a pair of dikes (wire cutters) and work until I can get a bite on it and.........yank! After repeated "bites" and "yanks", mixed with some curses, it'll come off.
Don't put a new one back on.As I suggest in the instructions, I think it would be a big help to have a helper to install the "new" pedal. That's when the laying on the floor part comes in.
I tried putting a 12" extension against the bolt and hitting the extension with a hammer to drive it out. It did not budge. I will try the wire cutters tomorrow. I really don't know why they used this stupid keeper rather than using another nut.
I did notice that the plate will not budge with three nuts off the bolts. Do I have to pry it off, once I get the keeper off the fourth bolt?
No way this is a 1.5 hour job for me!! I spent that much time screwing with the pedal before I finally figured out how to get it off.
I need to get this completed so I can try my new turbotweak chip that I got today.
I did notice that the plate will not budge with three nuts off the bolts. Do I have to pry it off, once I get the keeper off the fourth bolt?
No way this is a 1.5 hour job for me!! I spent that much time screwing with the pedal before I finally figured out how to get it off.
I need to get this completed so I can try my new turbotweak chip that I got today.
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Jim...........You haven't removed the fourth nut retaining the powermaster bracket to the firewall. The reason it won't budge is because the fourth nut is behind that keeper. Once you remove it, take off the fourth nut. I don't know where you got the idea that a vacuum conversion takes an hour and a half. Not from me. You must have been talking to one of your super mechanic friends. Plenty of them on this board. The job typically takes four hours.
The job typically takes four hours.The 1.5 hour was not from you. I don't know who mentioned that time but I do sure wish I had a super mechanic friend avaialable! With all the time I am spending on this job, I am going to raise that four hour average quite a bit.
Oh good, not only do I have the push keeper to get off but also another nut.
Oh good, not only do I have the push keeper to get off but also another nut.
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Jim use a long extension w/ 15mm deep socket, that will position the ratchet out past the dash, for the nut.........makes it a breeze. And don't worry how long it takes. "Super Mechanics" alway do everything so much faster.
