Im New Here And I Have A 87 Gn With A Stage 4 Turbo, And Front Mnt Intercooler, 3inch Down Pipe And Exuaust, Ported Heads, New Walbro Fuel Pump, And Hot Wire, New Fuel Filter, Dfi Ignition, New Coil, 42lb Injectors, And Art Carr Modified Trans, With Line Lock. I Just Bought The Car In The Spring And All This Work Was Done In 1999 By Turbo People Of Ny Then The Car Was Parked And Driven About 5000k Since Rebuild! Ok Heres The Problem, I Was Driving Stupid And Donig Burnouts When Out Of No Where The Car Started Missing And Breaking Up Under Any Boost. Driving Normal And Ideling The Car Still Ran Perfect But As Soon As It Hit Even 5lbs Of Boost It Would Studder And Break Up! I Had A Fuel Pump And Filter Installed And It Went Away!!! Then While At E Town First Pass With 17lbs Of Boost The Car Ran Flawless! 2nd Run I Turned Up The Boost (not Sure Exactly How Much, But Wasent Alot) While Shifting From 2nd To 3rd The Trans Slipped And The Motor Overeved Then Shifted And The Missing Came Back!!!! I Drove The Car Home 2 Hours And It Drives Great If You Dont Floor It, As Soon As It Hits Any Boost It Misses And Breaks Up, If I Turn Up The Boost And Drive Hard It Pops And Backfires!! Sorry For The Book But I Have No Idea Were To Start And Funds Are Tight To Bring To Back To The Turbo People (plus They Seem Extreamly Busy) I Have No Way To Hook Up To The Dfi, And Was Also Wondering If I Should Convert It Back To Stock Computer With A Chip!! Help Help Help!!!!
Help Car Breaks Up With Any Boost!
- Thread starter jrepou
- Start date
BlackGNTURBO
87GN STOLEN!!NY GNTURBO1
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2005
Hes In NY. Northern Westchester...Hey Jay, you sould come on here more if you have some ?s.....
Update!!! I drove the car again today and it drives fine until it goes over 5lbs of boost then you feel a lack of power and hear it start to miss and break up! Also when I started it and drove about 10 min the oil pressure at idle was from 7 to 10 lbs, stoped and drove 20 more min and noticed the pressure at idle went up to 17 to 20 lbs at idle, stopped again for about 5 hours then drove home 30 minutes the whole way the pressure at idle was falling below 5lbs and it fell rapidly as soon as i got off the throttle!! (Also started to hear valve tapping noise) It made it home. What the hell is wrong with this car. I have just installed cyberdyne dig oil gauge. Could that be a factor????????I live in NY Westchester, Putnam Area and would like to have someone look at the car if they know what there doing. Ive put several calls to Turbo people there are very busy, Will try them again tomorow! Thanks.
just to let you know electrical gauges dont work to well on buicks i had the same problem i put one in when cold i was getting 60psi when it warmed up i got 20psi when i drove it around for about 15 mins pressure dropped to 0 i checked it with a mechanical gauge i got 25psi hot get rid of that thing also i found out that electrical gauges wont be that accurate because of the voltage drop with the inside wiring just go to a mechanical gauge
snomachman
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2006
I am having the same problem,I checked my crank sensor, cam sensor,tps sensor,and still having problems,I thought it may be a fuel delivery problem so I put in a 340 walboro with a hotwire kit, changed my fuel filter,new plugs and wires,tested coil paks. Still runs like crap. So I hope they can Help you so it will Help me. Sno-
Hello All,
Not sure if it was mentioned, but what MAF are you running ?
If you have a scan tool make sure that when going WOT, and the boost is about say around 14-15psi, the MAF should be pegged at 255 (if a stock one is being used).
Also, up until that point (14-15 psi) the MAF should be reading the airflow accordingly. The MAF plays a big role in how the car fuels so check to be sure.
The best alternative (IMHO) is to go to an LS1/LT1 MAF with the translator (or GEn II translator) and extender chip so that it can fuel well beyond the 255 g/s...
Not sure if it was mentioned, but what MAF are you running ?
If you have a scan tool make sure that when going WOT, and the boost is about say around 14-15psi, the MAF should be pegged at 255 (if a stock one is being used).
Also, up until that point (14-15 psi) the MAF should be reading the airflow accordingly. The MAF plays a big role in how the car fuels so check to be sure.
The best alternative (IMHO) is to go to an LS1/LT1 MAF with the translator (or GEn II translator) and extender chip so that it can fuel well beyond the 255 g/s...
Thanks all for your help so far!
To answer Real-T's question I dont have a Mass air Im running DFI and thats part of my problem I do not have the software to hook up to it and check anything, nor the knoledge to due so! I purchased the car the way it is set up now, Thats why one of my questions was, Is it better for me to convert the car back to a stock computer setup with a chip?????? I called Turbo people again and they said to call back later today, Im hoping to get an opp. this week!! Im sure they can figure this mess out!
To answer Real-T's question I dont have a Mass air Im running DFI and thats part of my problem I do not have the software to hook up to it and check anything, nor the knoledge to due so! I purchased the car the way it is set up now, Thats why one of my questions was, Is it better for me to convert the car back to a stock computer setup with a chip?????? I called Turbo people again and they said to call back later today, Im hoping to get an opp. this week!! Im sure they can figure this mess out!
twin 93 svt
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2002
change plugs
Sorry about that, I saw that you were running DFI just after posting, but thought I would let the post ride and maybe it would help out snomachman and others reading this thread.
Hopefully you will be able to find out what is wrong and they can tune it out for you.
But what twin 93 svt says is a good idea too, it's cheap and easy to do yourself, plus then you can at least rule it out if the problem is still there.
Also without a scan tool, you may have to go back "old school" and do it by reading the plugs. If they are severly fouled that could point you in the right direction.
Hopefully you will be able to find out what is wrong and they can tune it out for you.
But what twin 93 svt says is a good idea too, it's cheap and easy to do yourself, plus then you can at least rule it out if the problem is still there.
Also without a scan tool, you may have to go back "old school" and do it by reading the plugs. If they are severly fouled that could point you in the right direction.
Yes I agree, But the plugs were put in just before the first pass at E-town so they mabye have 100 miles on them, But to be safe I did pull them and check, they all looked as new except the passanger side one closest to the fire wall I didnt have a swivel socket to check it. I have contacted Turbo People and am dropping the car off Wed. Thanks again to all and I will update on thier results on whats wrong so mabye it can help out others with the same problem!!!
similar problem
My car ran fine driving it regurally , as soon as I started to build boost it started i was getting hesitation and surging with popping. turned out to be my coil pack going. I swapped one with a buddy of mine just to check and sure enough the problem disappeared. might be worth a try it'll take 10 mins to do and might save you some headaches..
My car ran fine driving it regurally , as soon as I started to build boost it started i was getting hesitation and surging with popping. turned out to be my coil pack going. I swapped one with a buddy of mine just to check and sure enough the problem disappeared. might be worth a try it'll take 10 mins to do and might save you some headaches..
The coil pack was the first thing I changed and it didnt change anything, Then we changed the fuel filter and pump, Then it went away, until it over reved when it slipped and the missing came back??? I know I wrote a book but thats all said in the first thread! ALL NEW-- Plugs, Coil, Fuel pump, Filter, and Hot wire kit, I guess I could change the wires but the look fine, I removed each wire while the car was running to see if one was dead and they all had an effect so i figured they were good!
something else to check
you might want to check your vacum lines that go to your fuel pressure regulator, and the vac. lines on top of the throttle body. You might have a vac leak and might not be getting adequate fuel pressure which could also cause breakup...
you might want to check your vacum lines that go to your fuel pressure regulator, and the vac. lines on top of the throttle body. You might have a vac leak and might not be getting adequate fuel pressure which could also cause breakup...
Ignition module was the culprit onmine a while back.. It would get to 15 lbs an hit a brick wall.. Another car I had it would go into boost an just break up an stall an try to go dead. It was module also.. I recomend going to a Type 2 set up if it it your miodule cause the factory module in your car is 200 bucks dealer an the aftermarket do not last long from MY" experience.. Also too large a plug gap could cause this but it is usually @ higher boost. Most people like .028 to .032!!
Under Pressure
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2004
run a cr42ts plugs .035 gap make sure ,also fuel pressure is up and holding...jrepou said:
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