Help me out?!?!

[blueta]

Ok, here's the deal with the car. I've been having more knock then I used to have with no changes other then putting on the adjustable fuel reg, and an exhaust leak on the dp. The car used to get only like 1-2*kr at WOT. I'm seeing up to 8* now. So I turned the fp from 42 to 43, not better. I did this until the car started to idle funny at anything higher then 48psi vac line off. I still get 5* kr and also have a code 44. I believe this code is for running lean? What can cause this? Bad computer, o2 sensor?? Before the fuel regulator the one it had on it was 42 psi. Should I back off the boost a little? (I KNOW I need a boost guage, but I didn't change boost since I got the car so even that's the same). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[b4black]

Sometimes a restrictve exhaust limits boost more than the wastegate. If that was the case, then the DP leak would allow more boost, so don't assume it's the same.

Also, if the DP is leaking, it might be from engine movement. Engine movement may also cause the DP to hit the frame, which will show up as false knock. Some race gas will tell you if it's real or not.

Hook up a voltmeter to your O2 sensor and see how it's responding.

I would get the boost gauge before ever going WOT with knock again.

 

[blueta]

well, the dp is leaking because I had to take it off to get the oil drain back tube back on. The ring gasket was pretty chewed up and looks like it needs another one. I didn't even think about the leaky dp letting more boost my fault... And the o2's (according to my otc 85...remember I posted this before) are 890-900...

 

[b4black]

Those are your O2 readings at WOT. (At WOT, the ECM disregards the sensor reading.) A code 44 would be set during cruise situations. This is when the sensor oscillates quickly between rich and lean. Watch the O2 reading during cruise and see if the go back and forth or just stay low (lean). I like to use a digital voltmeter directly on the sensor so it reads real time. The readings thru the scan tool are slow to update, making it harder to see just the sensor's doing. Or you just change the sensor if you know it's old ~$35.

If your O2 sensor's tired, you can't trust it's WOT throttle readings. They aren't too reliable even when the sensor is new.


Do a Hot Air search on felpro and you'll get the number for the DP seal.

 

[blueta]

o2's while cruising vary from 110-840. So what do you think the 44 is coming from then? I think I need to back the fp off a bit because the car is acting funny at startup since I adjusted it. It let a little back fire out the intake this morning...and the next time I started it...well imagine starting a car with your foot mashed on the accellerator and when it fires...VROOOOOOMMMMM!!! That's what happened I'm going to turn down the boost a little and see if that cures the knock retard and also going to turn down the fp back to where it was when I got it. So...what could be the problem with getting that code...maybe bad o2 sensor?, ecm? I'm also getting the volt light coming on at idle ...if it isn't one thing...it's another. Thanks.

 

[blueta]

Update: Fp is turned back down to 42 and starts fine again. Turned the rod 1 full turn (is that 1psi..right?), and now only 2*kr at WOT. Still worried about the code 44 and what's causing it. And why would the volt light be coming on at idle even with NO accessories on? Is the alt on it's way out? Or is my car idling too low? It idles with the last light on RIGHT under the 1, and sometimes it idles under the 0 part of 1k and then it has no light.

 

[b4black]

Try watching the O2's at idle. Sometimes when I'm stuck in traffic, the check engine light will come on, but goes out as soon as I get going again.

From GNTTYPE:

CODE 44

Trouble Code 44 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently high exhaust oxygen content (lean), despite the efforts of the ECM to increase injector on-time (thus increasing fuel delivered). Integrator and BLM numbers may indicate > 128 by a substantial margin.

The conditions for setting this code are:

no Code 33 or Code 34 (MAF Error) present, and
the O2 sensor voltage remains below 250 mVolts, and
the ECM is in Closed Loop control, and
the above conditions exist for more than 50 seconds.



Typical causes for this code include:

1) O2 sensor defective or lead shorted
2) Lean injectors (dirty or blocked)
3) Water in fuel
4) Exhaust leaks upstream of O2 sensor
5) Fuel pressure or volume too low
6) MAF sensor reading lower airflow than is actually present
7) Vacuum leaks
8) Incorrect or poorly calibrated PROM