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Help No Start!!!!!!!!!

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SGRIM

Owner/Admin TB.com
Staff member
Joined
Mar 1, 2005
Messages
25,759
I bought a car this week from a board member. It is a highly modified car. He did not know much about the car. Bweaver on this board, nicest guy I ever talked to, knew more about it than him, he used to own car. The following was listed on e-bay that is all the guy knew about the car.

"This is a proven 10 second car..has great street manners.
Girdled 109 block.steel main caps,J&E pistons,.020",Hyd roller cam,internally balanced,BHJ balancer,JW wheel flexplate,C&C ported aluminum GN1 heads and intake,poston HPC coated headers,72# injectors,Max Effort-R fuel injection,PT-72 turbo,full 3" exhaust,,ESP front mount intercooler,victory transmissions 200r4,9" 3800 stall converter,spool,33 spline moser axles,c-clip eliminators,15 gallon fuel cell,-10 feed,-6 return,aeromotive fuel pump,paxton filter,accufab regulator,carbon fiber bumpers and deck lid,fiberglass hood(needs painted),scanmaster,RJC egt gauge, Innovate wideband,8-point cage thru floor to the frame."

I am fairly knew to modifiying these cars but know my way around enough to know what going on. We got car home and it would barely start and was running VERY RICH. There was 93 oct fuel in car and the MAX was on 6. Would have to hold at WOT to get to start. The boost was all the way down, cut off. Finally car started and cracked boost open just a little and went couple of miles down road. Car was stumbling a little but cleared up. Turned boost up a little more and hit one time. Hoses blowed off of everything. PVC blew out , Up pipe blowed off of T/B. Brought car in put hoses back on ran pretty good did a quick hit and boy was it scary, this thing just lit. Anyway now the car won't start. It has a battery cutoff switch, while trying to reset the MAX acceidently hit switch and the thing fired right up and ran perfect. DID NOT TOUCH just cut off and locked door. Went to crank today and same thing NO START. Here is what I know is going on
1. Reset MAX, even tried another ECM
2. Hit switch C/E light comes on. pump comes on F/P jumps to 38.
3. Pumps cuts off F/P drops immediatley to 0
4. Is NOT getting fire. Tried to jump spark NOTHING
5. F/P stays at 0 unless cut off and hit switch then same thing up to 38 drops back 0, comes on for normal 2 seconds
6. Straight wired pump f/p stays up but still no spark or crank
:mad:
7. All scan numbers looked good except 02's never over 300
8. Oil Pressure at 60 till warm up then drops to 20 at warm idle is that right?
9. Car ran up to 205 degrees, has a very small too small radiator.
10. No oil cooling system. At all.

I think it is in the programming of the MAX but reset. However I do not know enough about the system to know. I have e-mailed them yesterday, not rushing them, just have not heard back.
There are several things on this car that are just inadequate.
The fuel cell came out of a circle track car and the line is coming out of top no breathing system and old side line duct taped up.
This is just the begining of the "RIGGING" on this car. I think it is all very fixable but need it to start first.

The other big problem is a little blowback coming out of valve cover breathers causing a little drip. The breathers are VERY SMALL not right size. When take breathers off a small amount of white smoke blows out. But no leaks no water in oil and no leaks anywhere else, doesnt appear anything coming out of tail pipe. I was wondering if normal with this type of RACE motor or maybe return holes stopped up car sat a long time I think. I just praying nothing internal. THe car has the GN1 aluminum heads and valve covers I do not think valve covers on correctly and used a cork gasket, should not it be rubber? But very worried about this blowback, and the NO START.
It has a external wastegate, I know needed with MAX, but do not know what kind, it is red and blue and mounted on crossover pipe, can anyone identify by that description. Also the boost contorller is a black valve system that you pull up a knob to adust and push back to set, it is just laying on top of the motor. What boost controller is that?
Also the RJC EGT is unhooked can tell it was mounted with a fitting but broke off just laying on heads. Where does that supposed to be mounted?

Supposedly this car ran 10.50 with a completley STOCK SUSPENSION and still stock (till next week). That was before GN1 heads too. What do you think car will do?

I know I stepped up to quickly from stock T/R's to this but, I was going to spend more on bolt ons for another car to run 11 than I paid for the whole W-E4 car.

Please don't blast me for being a newbie I just need some help. Please give any suggestions and help on tuning this thing.
 
I'm thinking it's probably in your MAX-E.

Try this as this is what I do every time, my car is a daily driver mind you.

1. Turn power on via battery cut off,

2. Get in car and keep ignition OFF, turn MAX-E to 0

3. Turn ignition on and wait until you hear the fuel stop filling the lines/rail etc.

4. Turn max to 6 or 7. I always put mine on 7.

5. Attempt to start the car, sometimes you may have to apply a little gas, via gas pedal, but don't floor it.

6. If it doesn't start, go back to step 1 and do it again.

You have to follow a specific sequence in order for the MAXEffort to work. Ask me how I know;) I hope this solve your problem, otherwise, I dunno. Good luck.
Ray
 
Anytime power is shut off from the ecm you must always reboot the ecm in position 0. ignition off set thumbwheel to position 0 turn ignition on until fuel pump is done priming then turn the ignition back off. then set thumbwheel to any desired position other than 0, it should crank after that. A new ecm will not work properly on that car unless it has been modified to run with out the mass air flow sensor. Another thing to check is all wires going to the chip from the thumbwheel. Make sure they are all snug and connected. After my car sat for a year some how one of the wires came out of the plug and my car would not get a injector pulse or start. You may have a problem with the cam or crank sensor if you dont have spark. check those connections also. I can email you the max effort R directions if you would like them.
 
Ray files are sent to the requested address. Let me know if I can help anymore. sgrim let me know if you want the instructions and what email address to sent them to.


Ryan
 
Originally posted by RyansGNdoes10s
Ray files are sent to the requested address. Let me know if I can help anymore. sgrim let me know if you want the instructions and what email address to sent them to.


Ryan

RYan, thanks for all your help man:cool: - Ray
 
I never received the email sgrim, try it again ....

If I know the original owner, I may be able to supply the proper info for the chip.

Anytime you clear the computer , hold power off for 10 seconds, minimum.

Booting on pos 0 is a must. It is also critical to turn the key off before you change positions as per service bulletin updates.
(You can get away with changing positions when running, if on positions 8 to F. On the lower positions, it may momentarily go to 0 when inbetween positions and 0 has a differant program. )

Upgrades are available and recommended.

Don't run anything but race fuel while in the "learning curve." Protect the motor. Mistakes happen.

I am glad to help. Anyone with questions or problems, shoot me an email and if you don't hear back, fire off another one. Servers act up occasionally.

Thanks Ryan for the input.

Steve
 
Just so you guys know I informed Steve about your problems so He could help you guys out if I can't I see he has already posted here which is great! Steve is a awesome person and He will be more than happy to help you guys out or I will be more than happy to help out if I can.
 
can I not be of any help to you? I sent you a PM a few days ago asking if you have it figured out or not? But I have not heard anything from you. Email me and I will give you a hand. You must not want to get it running, Because I would take all the help that I could get if I was in your situation.
 
Do you have a solid service engine light when the key is turned on, or is it flashing?

You mentioned in an email that you do not have any spark.
Look at the crank sensor and connection and the cam sensor ring and connection.
The crank sensor may have been hit. The cam sensor ring may have broken.
Do you have an extra module for the coil pack to try? If you buy one, get a factory original from GM Delco parts supplier. Do not use aftermarket modules, or coil packs for that matter.

We'll get you going.
 
I need to know where the car came from and chip number so I know what you have.

You need an external oil cooler up front.

You are going to go through a HUGE learning curve for a while, run race fuel after you get it going. It may save you because it will be like a comedy of errors till you get some expirience under your belt.
We've all been there.
 
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