Help WB Powerlogger info Long

[Martin U]

Hi guys,
I did get the PL installed & PLX in. BUT I am learning This is a lot of fast new info I'm looking at. What I am seeing is if I just jump on it ,it will show some knock but the trace decays fast and I can stay in it with no knock. But if I tend to roll into it I don't see that much KR.
Plus I thought I would be seeing the WB trace jump up and down, like the NB 02"s
I will add just a couple of PL files to take a peek at And see if you see what I'm seeing.
It almost seems like if I hit it hard it goes lean and takes a few for the rest of the system to catch up. Could my alky system be lagging? and/or spiking?
Aslo every one sayes to keep my TT chip at 43# How far can I move it from there? Is the only place to add fuel in the chip?
BLM's 142- I went through a case of starter fluid looking for a air leak--None I could find?? COULD IT BE LEAKING BETWEEN RUNNERS IN THE INTAKE?
Any way here are some of my first PL files.
I went from not enought info to to much!!

 

[Eric Stage I]

Hi Martin,

There's a couple things that need to be straightened out first. One is the wideband reading is not correct. It's stuck in the mid 14's all the time, which we know isn't right. You'll have to troubleshoot that, look at wiring, etc before you get any good WB readings.
The other problem is the BLM's being so high. Let's confirm that the chip is made for those injectors. I looked up your order and it says Delphi 37, but your sig has 39's. If you can get the part# off the injector, I can confirm what they are.

Thanks,
Eric

 

[Jerryl]

In summary;
What Eric said. :tongue:

A few of my observations.
Keep in mind, I started typing BEFORE Eric posted.
If the injectors are not what the chip is programmed for, that is 98% of the problem ........... Here are some other observations;

“Idle” file;
• Idle rpm seems high – IAC is at “0”. Screw it 1/8 turn out at a time. Shoot for 15-25, hot idle/park
• Coolant temp is 195+ Are you running a 160 thermostat?
• MAF is on the low side at 5 gr/sec.
• The “third gear” switch stays on as well. Stock trans? If so, could be a switch problem in the trans.


“hb_ run” file
• Looks like you are running lean – About 24 PSI and 14.4 - Something is off as Eric stated.
• Coolant temp looks good here and is appears you are in fact running a 160 thermostat.

My advice (One change at a time);
• As Eric said; Verify the injectors.
• Turn the boost down and try to run without KR. Don't go on a Banzai run "out of the box.
• Upgrade to the TT 6.0 with WB tracking. :tongue:

Overall, not bad for “right out of the box”.
Eric is the man!

 

[Martin U]

See I told you guys I was not allowed to play with anything more involved than a battery.
I had the IAC correct at one time, but I think I unplugged the ECM to reset, I'll fix that. 190deg=Casper's Hi-LO switch-because I haven't wired a thermostat switch (see batteries). Eric I'll find the order for the injectors, I think I saved everything I purchased for this car.
Trans I rebuilt myself from Chris's manual and have never had one problem with it, works great to me.
I seem to be getting boost creep at this time, ATR down pipe.
I was actually happy I thought I got the wiring right???
And I thought it was running pretty good before.
Can you guys start me in a direction looking at the wiring.
This much I know, I wired the power plug from the PLX to red=ign slot in fuse block, Blk=to chassis ground where I did some of my other gages, stud under the dash.
Tapped the gray WB wire from PLX into green Map wire-same as Razors kit.
Grnd from white plug slot to grnd wire at ECM????
Thanks for the help guys. I'm guessing I'll need more.
Marty

 

[Jerryl]

Martin,
Your description of the connections is a bit unclear to my simple mind.
Now, I am not familiar with the PLX, but ………….

Typically, the WB output signal wire is “white”, and that goes to the PL analog block.
There is most likely also a NB simulated output wire. Not sure what happens if that goes into the analog block. (I would verify this)

As far as the trans ……
I am sure it works fine . . . . . Just that it indicates the car to be in “3rd gear” all the time.

 

[Martin U]

PLX Manual

Here is a PDF file of the install manual;
http://www.plxdevices.com/InstallationInstructions/SM-AFRUsersGuide.pdf

 

[Jerryl]

Here is a PDF file of the install manual;
http://www.plxdevices.com/InstallationInstructions/SM-AFRUsersGuide.pdf

OK ..........
I am sure you have it connected correctly.
So what are the wire colors as related to the NB and WB output slots as listed on page 3, figure 5?
Just trying to understand.

Edit;
Figure 5 - Lower right square plug to the PL analog input block correct?

 

[Martin U]

To Eric,

The recipt I have in hand was for 37# delphi injectors,These were the very first up grades I started with. I think I was told these injectors would be enough fir this turbo for them. TA49 dropped from pte Sorry If I got you involved in a mix up??
What can My Options be/
Mart

 

[TurboDave]

Tapped the gray WB wire from PLX into green Map wire-same as Razors kit.
Grnd from white plug slot to grnd wire at ECM????
Thanks for the help guys. I'm guessing I'll need more.
Marty

This is where you lost me!! Why on earth is a WB wire tapped into anything MAP related???

On your connector, is the gray WB wire the PLX WB output signal?? if it is, it needs to go directly to I1 on the powerlogger analog input block, nothing else!!!! I1 is for Wideband signal, I2 is for the map signal!!

When I say I1 and I2, I DONT mean the first and second slots, I mean the ones actually labeled I1 and I2

 

[Martin U]

Update

Dave> I had the PLX analog wiring correct, The ground going to the ecm was incorrect <<The other wire from the lower left goes to a good ground, preferably the ECM's O2 sensor ground which I believe is D6 (tan wire) on the ECM connector, but you can try a good chassis or engine ground<<
I cut that ground wire and added a wire to a chassis ground up by the battery. I tgink that worked.
Eric the chip from my invoice says #37 inj. How bad is that?.
All the rest of the tuning issues I will take care of monday. Except the 142BLM-I cannot find a leak anywhere?? Chip Maybe?
Here is a file after changing ground wire--Doues this look better?
How to wire a temp controlled fan switch?
You guys are getting me there. What shouls a WB os be ---ABOUT???
Marty

 

[Martin U]

--You guys are getting me there. What shouls a WB os be ---ABOUT???--
WTF--that is just a long day & old age. They were right about burning up gray matter. :biggrin:
Should be<What should a WB AFR be ---ABOUT???<

 

[Eric Stage I]

Need the part# on the injector itself to see what you have.

Wideband readings looks like its at least moving around now. We're looking for mid 14's driving around, mid 13's for idle, around 11.0 give or take at WOT.

Your stock O2 sensor reading doesn't look right, hovering around .500 all the time. What kind of stock O2 are you running? How old is it? This may be causing BLM problems.

 

[Martin U]

Chip #

Eric
The chip is marked tt5.6 2327
37# alcohol
23deg/21deg 20-23 psi

 

[Martin U]

PS the 02 sensor is a denso. I might have 1 tank of 104 unleaded thru it

 

[Martin U]

more info with PL & WB

OK I just took it out on the back roads to get some numbers, so you guys can help me to understand some more.
I think I'm getting some boost creep, or my boost gage is not quite matching the PL info.
Wondering if some of that knock is false?? I noticed that it showed a blip while not recording just while turning a corner.
What about that 10.0 WB am I maxed on my injectors?
Here are 3 files. Don't have any idea about that 3rd gear switch.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

I will give you a couple of ideas. Looked at your logs. I will assume you have the TT 6.0 chip which reads the target AF ratio from your PLX. I would change cell 1 & 2 to 109. You are running rich. Your injectors are too small for the boost setting. Check injector duty cycle on your logs. Do your homework before you buy bigger injectors. Some will say go to 60m ibs up front. I may have a simular setup. PM if you want to talk on the phone. Quicker. Brad

 

[Boost231]

ok, i also took a quick look at your logs and this is what i see.

one, your TPS at WOT is alittle low, your at 4.30 bump it up some to 4.40 to 4.60 it hits 4.30 then it looks like you limp foot it some.

two, your A/F is PIG RICH. you need to either pull fuel or alky. Whats the alky set at? have you touched the internal settings in the controller?

three, your injector duty cycle is high but once you get your rich condition in check this will come down. also when you add more alky and pull more fuel it will come down so you should be ok.

four, whats done to the tranny? kinda shift low IMO

five, not sure what that knock is. i had the same problem with that on my car and i dont know what to say. you dont want to know how i fixed it.

six, what converter is in the car? stall is pretty weak IMO. takes about 3 seconds to get to full boost thats sloooooooooow but then again your a/f is getting richer as boost comes up all the way to the 10's

anyways thats what i see

 

[Martin U]

Short & quick
1) I bumped FP up to 46# Aprox. & add 10.2% in the chip, Just to see cause and effect. I was trying to see what it did to the 141 BLM.
2) I have never altered the stock TPS, I will now I have never been able to get that much from it. If I get it up that high it blows to idle #.

3) I have never touched the PAC controller, But I do have the alky turned all the was up-trying not to break it.
4) I did everything I could from Chris's manual, Wide bands servos, dual feed, pump ect. never touched the gov. I did replace both the drive/driven gears to cure a bouncing needle. I still need to correct the tooth count, it reads +5mph from 45 on up. Stock gears are no longer made I'm told.
5) Can I get it to shift higher with the TV cable. It chirps em in 3rd.
6) the chip is TT 5.6. Getting ready for the 6.0 when money starts to come back-michigan auto ind.
7) stock converter.
How do get it to spool faster? I thought I had a fairly good set up of parts-except for the stock ported elbow.
I do not understand the WB # yet and what is good or bad-had it less than a week.
Brad I WILL give you a call!! I 'd like that & it works so much better.
Have to go make SAUSAGE!! Trying to get a new biz off the ground!
You guys should try some-then I can get that chip sooner!
Last one that has bugged me for some time. My RPM on my Autometer is off to the ECM readings-I know that is connected right. It didn't match my TL either?
Thanks again, some of this is sinking in. I would think that with my setup it will end up running good-IF I don't pop it first!
Marty

 

[Boost231]

Ok, I'm going to type a short post since I'm using my phone. First put the fuel pressure back to 43 line off. Adjust your tps and then adjust your idel after that. Reset the computer and take it for a drive to let the ecm learn. Then roll into it and get a data log for us. Just make sure you got all your sensors in check first and to the settings they are suppose to be at