Hid
4300k is the closest to sunlight so they will give you the best lumens (Brightest light). The higher you go in numbers such as 5000k-6000k-7000k and so on.... the more bluish-purple they get (the ricer look!!!). They don't get brighter as the number gets higher they get dimmer (atleast as far as light output) . Stick with 4300k. That is what almost all factory HID lamps are supplied with (BMW, MERCEDES, FORD, Etc.....)
Although, HID's are really designed for projection headlamp assemblies. This is because they have a cut off point. If you have ever driven in a car with projection headlamps with HID's you will notice that the light cuts off before the greatest lumanesence of the bulb makes contact with the eye level of oncomming traffic. Go for a ride in a car with projection headlamps with HID's and point the headlamps at a wall. You will see a distinct cut-off point where the light goes from very bright to almost complete darkness. There is not a lot of residual light unlike a NON-HID headlamp assembly.
This is why the DOT does not like them on vehicles that do not have projection headlamps. This is also why some states have banned them in vehicles that do not have a projector light assembly. Remember, a 4300k HID low beam is 300% brighter then your NON-HID highbeams are!
Some manufactures offer BI-Zenons (Zenons is a fancy word for HID). Bi-Zenon option simply means both your low and high beam bulbs are HID.
Although, I had them in my last car and i did not not have a projector assembly. On occassion I would get high-beamed to dim my lights. Rare tho.
You get what you pay for. Go with phillips or similar. Stay away from the junk on the ricer sites. They wont last long. And remember a true HID will have a ballast assembly not just an HID so-called bulb.
BTW, I am a flashaholic....! I have (2) HID flashlights that set me back over $1200....! I could probably spend my money more wisely!!!!
