Naturally, you have to unplug the ECM power wire to erase the old adjustments. Any time you make ANY change to the translator, you need to clear the computer and reset the base tune adjustments on your extender. If I changed between 3" and 3.5" MAF on the translator, and didnt clear the computer, everything would be totally screwed up, and no amount of tuning with the extender would fix the issues. Its cause of all those adaptive adjustments in the computer that were set there with the old settings. What MAF do you have? I have a 3.5" MAF, but for whatever reason, it would only run right with the translator set on 3" MAF. I had a low BLM problem from day one, after putting on the 50's, the translator (with an old 5.4 chip in it) and the extender. After I got a new 6.22 chip for the translator, I no longer have to tweak the BLM offset parameter in the extender chip. I used to have to drop it to 1 or zero just to get the BLM's in a workable area. I also didnt have the greatest connection between the translator and the factory harness. Between fixing that, getting the new translator chip, and switching it to 3" MAF, the BLM's are much better. I used to have about a 40 count spread between idle and cruise BLM's. I still have a spread, but now the worst it gets is 115 at idle and 136 or so at cruise. Ive done a huge amount of tweaking and this is by far the best I can get it. You need to disconnect the orange power wire to the ECM for 10 minutes or so, then once its reconnected, reset the base parameters in the extender (whatever you need to set it to...I use race fan and lean fuel). Let the engine completely warm up, while keeping an eye on BLM's to make sure its not pegged. If its still all out of whack, clear the comp again, try a different MAF setting on the translator, redo the extender parameters, and try again...fully warming the engine up and watching BLM's. Things will just never run right if you dont clear the memory every time you make a translator change...at least thats my personal experience.
