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high volume oil pump

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mat231v6

painter
Joined
Jun 17, 2006
Messages
3,589
im going to change my oil pump over to a hv pump. what spring do i use the 40, 60, or 70 psi spring. the how to build buick engines books by Jefferson Bryant says "do not use the 60lb spring, because it is wound too tight. the coils tend to stick and bind before the relief valve can fully open, causing your pump to build oil pressure well over 100psi. this high pressure oil will cause your cam to float in the bearing,knocking on and destroying the bearings. most builders recommend a rebuilt pump with a minimim of 60lbs of pressure" (buick engines pg 36) he say that last line in the book so what spring do i use. if you have the book you can see it exactly.:confused:
 
Have you done the block mods?

if not... going to the HV pump is a waste of time. You dont need the HV pump unless you have opened your galleys to 3/8" and plan on spinning to 6000+ RPM

Besides, if your running the stock mechanical fuel pump, High volume oil pump AND a REGULAR HEI DISTRIBUTOR....... might as well kiss your front cam bearing good bye. it wont last with that much load on the front.

The Earl Brown mods on a stock cover are plenty enough for the kind of horsepower i anticipate you will be producing.

BUT.... if you must, use a HV cover.... I run the 40lb spring and 20W50.

should give a 80lb cold start pressure and even out around 45-50 hot PROVIDED you built your rotating assembly correct running on the tight side of .0003 main and rod.

A.j.
 
Word up! I put a hv pump on my 4.1 and I'll never do it again. too much oil and pressure for a stock block. I used the springs supplied with the kit. and I used all of them to see what the psi would be. And I went with the original spring for the original pump to get what I wanted.
Now on all my other engines I use a 100% stock pump. Even my '85 block that I just put together in my car is using a stock pump with the stock spring AND I have OEM stock GM bearings throughout this engine with over 125K miles on everything.
60psi cold idle, falling to 20psi at operating temp and I get 35-40psi operating temp @3500 rpms's I can't complain
 
Have you done the block mods?

if not... going to the HV pump is a waste of time. You dont need the HV pump unless you have opened your galleys to 3/8" and plan on spinning to 6000+ RPM

Besides, if your running the stock mechanical fuel pump, High volume oil pump AND a REGULAR HEI DISTRIBUTOR....... might as well kiss your front cam bearing good bye. it wont last with that much load on the front.

The Earl Brown mods on a stock cover are plenty enough for the kind of horsepower i anticipate you will be producing.

BUT.... if you must, use a HV cover.... I run the 40lb spring and 20W50.

should give a 80lb cold start pressure and even out around 45-50 hot PROVIDED you built your rotating assembly correct running on the tight side of .0003 main and rod.

A.j.

DO EARL BROWNS OILING MODS PLEASE!:biggrin: He really knows what he's doing and the mods work. The HV pump will cause problems in the long run.:eek:
 
I've been looking for that for a while. Do you have a link to the instructions? I remember seeing it a long time ago.
 
is the block mod where you open the oil feed hole on the timing cover to 1/2 in?:confused:
 
After doing some reading on the Buick V6, I was concerned with oiling issues. Turns out the concerns in the early days were just that, concerns. I think history has shown the stock system is pretty good for a stock motor. You don't often here about engine fialures due to oiling issues, unless the are rebuild related (like the casting flash in the front covers).

Adding a HV spacer just gives you a second place for an oil leak. And it's not real easy to install with the engine in the car. I screwed up my front cover and turned a little job into a big one.

I won't do it again. I think running a larger PF-52 sized oil filter ina good idea and all that is needed on a stock block making reasonable power.

If you are worried about a tired motor, pull the pump cover and make sure it's not worn badly. If it is, a "trust plate" or new cover will make it new again.
 
is the block mod where you open the oil feed hole on the timing cover to 1/2 in?:confused:

the block mods, involve opening up ALL of the oil galleys in the block, smoothing out the insides of the block for oil return, and drilling all of the main, rod and cam bearings to size.

Thes are mods that can only be done during a full rebuild.

A.j.
 
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