High volume oil pump

100 is pretty damn smooth. The flatness is the important part. ESP around the 'horseshoe' area around the oval hole. That's the most important spot.

If the paper curled up on the edges it can remove more meat there and cause a leak because that's the high pressure area that's going to the engine It has the most load per area and happens to be the thinnest part of the gasket. If you look at my picture, the finish is straight lines. After I've done the figure 8's, I pull it one swipe straight. And low spots will still show a matte finish.


On the cover being ''too smooth'' I can't imagine it would be a problem in this exact application. Technically it's better for the two surfaces to mate to the gaskets so you have a mechanical bond of sorts. After all, that is a gaskets job. If you were to make both sides ''perfectly smooth'', then you'd only have the strength of the gasket to hold it in place (that's impossible BTW)


For what it's worth, that cover pictured above was after my car was stolen. It was ran so hot without coolant that the oil pump welded itself together, locked up, and twisted the bottom off my cam sensor. The gouges were a mile deep and jagged as hell. I started with 60 or 80 grit and stopped at 100 or 150 (whichever I had on hand)
 
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One new parts is here. I'll make sure it's straight.
 
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Just an FYI. I was trying to set up a used high volume pump kit and I was having a hell of a time...


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Booster plate came in today. This thing is slick as Friday night poonanny. No finishing needed. And it's stainless steel.
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Gears came in today. These are standard gears and will be set up with a booster plate. I'll post my progress. This is for a new motor being build, oil clearances also be posted because this is a major part of oil pressure.
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I think the booster plate is just another potential leak. It was a fix that really ,there was no problem with. These covers set up proper with flat surfaces have ran deep into the 9s. If your truly concerned about oil pressure or volume, run a HV with stock spring. At the end of the day it is what the individual who owns the car feels happy with.
 
This weekend I was just putting a slight chamfer on the gears, hopefully it prevent them from digging. Also started cleaning the cover about 3 times but I have not started drilling or radius anything yet.
For me the only reason I want to use a booster plate is for a harder surface for the gears to ride on. The oil filter adapter is just regular cast aluminum is very soft. it's not like a main bearing where it's hardened aluminum.
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everything is a potential leak. If I drink milk I have a potential leak. Lol just messing around don't get offended.
 
Back in the 70's when Kenne Bell recommended booster plates for all Buick engines, the idea was to send bypassed oil back into the oil pump inlet instead of back into the gears. This was to lessen the strain on the distributor/cam sensor gears. The filter adapter had to have a passage ground into it. I always used them on Buick builds. Never had a leak, but I did have some worn gears so I guess that blows that theory.
 
Back in the 70's when Kenne Bell recommended booster plates for all Buick engines, the idea was to send bypassed oil back into the oil pump inlet instead of back into the gears. This was to lessen the strain on the distributor/cam sensor gears. The filter adapter had to have a passage ground into it. I always used them on Buick builds. Never had a leak, but I did have some worn gears so I guess that blows that theory.
I have a stainless replica of Kenny Bell booster plate. Custom made from a member.
 
I bought one too from Coach. I still use the booster plates with longer allen head bolts.
 
but there is something that could be improved on the plate that was possibly causing a flow problem I'll post it later once I modify it
 
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