Where can I buy a booster plate?
Ta advertises it on their website as a booster plate that's why I said that. They're the ones that need to correct their website then.
High volume oil pump
- Thread starter 1972chevy
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Ta advertises it on their website as a booster plate that's why I said that. They're the ones that need to correct their website then.
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
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I measured some melling plates a while back and they weren't flat. When aiming for 0.001" clearance, 0.0005" is 50% and not enough.
Bison has plates that are ground and guarenteed flat.
Bison has plates that are ground and guarenteed flat.
Send a PM to Coach. He might be able to help you.
Done
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
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There is a difference between the auto parts store and a TA cover . Hands down the quality is much better with the TA cover as well as all the good internal mods . The auto parts store will just give you a stock made in China cover. That’s why there is a price difference
We were just talking about the plate it self.
I have the original cover I'm going to rebuild.
In the top picture,you see that the booster plate has 2 oval shaped oil passages machined into the plate. The bottom/smaller passage is used to route the bypass oil back into the pickup oil that is on it's way to the pump gears. A channel has to be cut into the pump cover to allow the bypass oil to get to this passage. This passage isn't cut into the Melling plate because bypass oil is allowed to re-enter the pump at the factory location when you use that plate.
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
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Well you are going to be porting your cover just buy the mellings and port out the right spot just do some reading there is plenty of reading material on the good old internet
My understanding of the TA cover is they buy unmachined casting which are chinese and machine them in house. If they have rock solid machine fixtures and programs with competent operators, where the casting comes from should not matter from a dimensional standpoint (you will catch it when machining). The castings may have issues with voids, inclusions, parting lines, porosity .... but the dimensions should be rock solid when finished. Always wise to check, but TA should give a good part.
I just did my order with Coach.
Bison performance says there's no such thing as a booster plate.
Anyway I got it
Thank you very much my TR friend you've been very helpful I appreciate it
One last thing. TA sells a gasket kit with many gaskets of various thicknesses. You'll want one of these to set the clearance just right.
Alright once I get all set up we'll see where I'm at.
Thank you
If you follow my oil mods and drill that booster hole, it negates the need for a booster plate. That hole does the same thing but only better (and you don't have to buy anything).
Just hand lap your oil filter adapter like that picture of mine you posted and let it fly.
No need to waste money for band-aid plates or HV pumnp gears. They aren't needed.
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Word.
Took me a $2 piece of scrap glass from the hardware store and half an hour to get from this:
to this:
Put the glass on a clean flat surface, put some 800 grid sandpaper on the glass, soak it with WD-40, and start moving the adapter around on the paper. Once the gouges are gone, switch to 1000, then 1500, then 2000. Just like wet sanding a paint job. It'll be smoother and flatter than that thrust plate.
SS/GN
Well-Known Member
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I don't think the factory finish is not equal to 2000 sand paper. I have also seen in the past that too smooth is not always the best. Any other opinions on the final finish??
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If Earl says you can get away with 150, you probably can. I don't think you can go too smooth, it's more of a question of how much time you want to put into a part. You need "smooth enough." I went all the way to 2000 because I had some. And the process of drinking a beer while making scratches go away was a bit relaxing.
I'm at almost 500 miles, and it's not leaking.
Regardless of the grit, the booster/thrust plates all add an extra gasket to the system. Every gasket is a potential leak. If you can avoid them, I think its a good idea to do so.
As far as the finish. I believe it's more about the type of friction being applied and pressure during operating. Kind of like a main bearing. Rings require a different finish in order for them to set in and seal properly.
For me personally I'm going 2000 grit and maybe even more. Depending on what the Finish looks like. I'd like to get it as close to a polish as possible. Time don't matter to me I love working on cars.
But each to their own.
I've been looking at a lot of gear and oil filter adapter surfaces and they always try to polish themselves anyway because of the oil.
But yeah thats just me every one else do what you want.
For me personally I'm going 2000 grit and maybe even more. Depending on what the Finish looks like. I'd like to get it as close to a polish as possible. Time don't matter to me I love working on cars.
But each to their own.
I've been looking at a lot of gear and oil filter adapter surfaces and they always try to polish themselves anyway because of the oil.
But yeah thats just me every one else do what you want.
