Hogans intake

[geno]

This intake looks like a good one to covert over to FI and turbo.
Has antbody else used this intake before?This is one huge file so it takes some time if your not DSL or Cable
http://www.netSnapShot.com/users/2412/images/PANJVMCoBQIAAHDIWlc_2412_83.pjpeg

 

[Reggie West]

That thing looks used pretty well. Some of the bolt holes are not in the best of shape either.

For what it is worth, CAS makes a very nice piece for an all out Stage 2 block.

That is the one I would look at. I know the price tag is no where near cheap but, you are talking about Stage 2 parts. That equates to $10K at the least.

Good luck

 

[geno]

Maybe you can buy me one
Your right i think i will put it in the trash,but i think i would have guy going through my garbage LOL
The bolt holes are spot faced and not worn out so i guess you have never seen this before
http://www.netSnapShot.com/users/2412/images/PAOh4cCoBQIAAAe3Wpk_2412_84.pjpeg

 

[KendallF]

Geno,

I already emailed you once on that intake. Let me give you my opinion...For somebody who's building an all-out twin motor w/S2 heads, it might be worth modifying. Or, if you're like me and do a lot of your own work and like to fiddle around, same thing. I wonder if it'd fit under the hood even with a flat top, also.

There are very few people building S2 headed cars these days, though. Most people are using converted 4 bbl intakes, with a few Edelbrock tunnel ram lowers and other oddities thrown in. I paid $50 for my 4 bbl intake; I don't see anybody springing big bucks for a carbed intake that still needs a hefty fabrication bill.

 

[geno]

Well i guess im going to be one of the few that will run the S2 heads with a sheet metal intake Myself i love to do things different and make it work. My buddy made a intake for a S2 headed car from scratch that looks real close to mine and it works pretty good for a 9.50 with some still left single reworked 70 to a 74 turbo car.People told me i didnt have enough turbo or cam to goes 9,s and i did so here i go again doing it my own way Being a machinist for the last 21 years for Boeing i think i can work with what i have. I love the chalange and have the time since i might get laid off I was just wondering if anyone here has coverted one of these Hogans intake.The lid i need to make for the intake can be 4" tall before it hits the hood,so i think i can handle that The guy i bought my parts from had lots of different style cast intakes for $25.00 but leave it to me to get the sheet metal one
Thanks
Geno

 

[KendallF]

Originally posted by geno
Well i guess im going to be one of the few that will run the S2 heads with a sheet metal intake Myself i love to do things different and make it work. My buddy made a intake for a S2 headed car from scratch that looks real close to mine and it works pretty good for a 9.50 with some still left single reworked 70 to a 74 turbo car.People told me i didnt have enough turbo or cam to goes 9,s and i did so here i go again doing it my own way Being a machinist for the last 21 years for Boeing i think i can work with what i have. I love the chalange and have the time since i might get laid off I was just wondering if anyone here has coverted one of these Hogans intake.The lid i need to make for the intake can be 4" tall before it hits the hood,so i think i can handle that The guy i bought my parts from had lots of different style cast intakes for $25.00 but leave it to me to get the sheet metal one
Thanks
Geno

Well, if you're going to convert it yourself, like I said, I think it'd be worth it. I did my 4 bbl conversion; take a look at my signature for a link that has photos (look under the Grand National album). You can get the bungs and fuel rail stock from PT&E, Kinsler, and others.

For the injector placement, there are two schools of thought. OEMs try to target the injector as close to the valve as possible to improve atomization and efficiency. Some of the 8 and 7 second cars place them higher in the runners because they say the fuel needs more distance to mix under high boost. Since my car is going to be a street car and I would like it to idle nicely and not foul plugs, I tried to orient them down low in the ports.

I would build the lid angled out at the front face so that the throttle body angles down to follow the hood line (see mine w/the PT&E elbow; it's slightly more than 90 degrees for the same reason). If it were mine, I'd go with a 90 mm TB.

As far as plenum volume, in the absence of any other data, I think I'd try to keep your new lid displacing about the same volume as the old lid or a bit more..you'll be flowing lots more air than the old NA motor but probably running less RPM.

 

[geno]

How did that cast weld? I know cast is pretty dirty and wont weld verry well unless its pretty high quality Is there alot of worm hole in the welds?Thats the one thing about the sheet metal intake i think its T6061 and weld really nice.

 

[KendallF]

Originally posted by geno
How did that cast weld? I know cast is pretty dirty and wont weld verry well unless its pretty high quality Is there alot of worm hole in the welds?Thats the one thing about the sheet metal intake i think its T6061 and weld really nice.

It welded very nicely, actually. I was taking a TIG class at the local junior college, and the instructor showed me some things that help when welding cast. The hardest part sometimes was getting the puddle to fillet between the cast manifold and the bungs (5051?). They seemed to melt at different temps, probably because of impurities in the casting.

 

[EightSecV6]

Ok, I am prolly gonna step on some toes here, but that wont be the first time! I have used sheet metal, carbed and even cast tunnel ram manifolds and I can HONESTLY say I have seen very little if any performance differences in any design on a blown/turbo engine. As long as there is boost on the back side of the valve, it does not know where it is coming from. I dont buy all the stuff about one cyl is leaner than the other because of the manifold etc etc etc.
On an SBC, cyls 3 and 4 are always the leanest and this is magnified by the presence of forced induction, just a characteristic of the engine. I have personally found the rear holes on a Buick to be lean (5 and 6) but I believe this is caused by the lack of coolant to these cyls (GM corrected this on LT1's with rev. flow clg on LT1's) which would also promote detonation.
I say use/build whatever manifold is the easiest to get the job done on your setup, when forcing the air in, it will surely work. Placing the injector higher in the runner will for whatever reason shows a definate increase in HP on the dyno, I have talked to KennyD about this and it is kind of unexplainable...
Bill

 

[geno]

Does the injector placed higher in the runner cause poor idle and is there a happy medium ? This intake has some LONG runners so what is considered up high? The intake is a pretty piece and i thought it would look nice ontop off my motor if it was done nice I just liked the configuration and quality of it..
It would be better ontop of my motor than turned into a pop cans Like you said i dont think the air cares about how it got there so long as it has boost behind valve.

 

[Grandnat]

how about this for a theory?

the higher the injector is in the runner the more time the fuel has to vaporize.

Vaporization causes an endothermic reaction reducing the intake charge temp.

reduced temps means denser charge......which means more HP?


plausable?????????

 

[Reggie West]

How about this for a theory. If you keep moving the injector up the runners, you will not be able to call it fuel injection anymore.
It will have become a throttle body injection.

Just stirring up trouble!!!