Homemade Boost control

[Ttype83]

I was talking to Bruce (WE4) from Performance Trans last night about problems with my trans and we got talking about the turbo and overboosting. He asked if I had the correct Y fitting going to the turbo, Bingo No I don't. He said that the Y has a reducer on it, I have a T connection with no reducer and I replaced the vac lines with 1/4 in. heavy fuel line too.
Ok so if I want boost control all I need is a air valve with a fine adjustment right? Run the lines in to the cab and mount it on the dash so that I can adjust it from inside.
I have read FC227 (Fred) talking about a boost control on his, but I can not find anything on how he built it. I checked B4Black's web site & Fred's with no luck Ok guys/gals lets brain storm and build it. Oh I can boost up to 13-14psi before I start to lean out.

P.S. my trans is tired 18 years old w/out a rebuild I believe.

 

[b4black]

I think what Bruce is reffering to is the Y on the SFI/Turbo that goes off to the solenoid. The solenoid is controlled by the ECM to adjust boost. We don't have this.



One way for beeter boost control is to install a inline relief valve just before the actuator. A relief valve holds back all preesure until a "cracking" pressure opens it. (The cracking pressure can be adjusted.) The actuator will see no boost until the relief cracks open. Therefore adjsuting the relief valve effectly adjusts the boost pressure. With the factory set up set at 9 psi max, it may actually start opening earlier. The advantage to the relief valve is that before it cracks the actuator will be completely closed. This will give faster spool up (less lag). In other words, the factory actuator opens slowly compared to a releif valve.

 

[Ttype83]

Originally posted by b4black
One way for beeter boost control is to install a inline relief valve just before the actuator. A relief valve holds back all preesure until a "cracking" pressure opens it. (The cracking pressure can be adjusted.) The actuator will see no boost until the relief cracks open. Therefore adjsuting the relief valve effectly adjusts the boost pressure. The advantage to the relief valve is that before it cracks the actuator will be completely closed. This will give faster spool up (less lag). In other words, the factory actuator opens slowly compared to a releif valve.

OK I'll go for that Rich, were can find a adjustable relief valve?
I have done a search on summit,carparts,schucks for a relief valve &/or regulator with no luck.

 

[b4black]

They are available from industrial supply stores like McMaster-Carr and Grainger.

These two site will give you more info and part numbers:

http://www.dawesdevices.com/boost.html
http://pages.cthome.net/gus/mike.html


For some strange reason it got the name Grainger valve, but it a relief valve. If you search Grainger in the General Tech forum you might find some more.

 

[Ttype83]

Thanks again Rich. I don't know how you find this stuff,but I'm glad that you do.
I still want to be able to adjust from the dash (don't want to burn my fingers) So I can't stop thinking about this.
A vendor sells one but it's $60 for nothing more than a regulator.

So if I can find a regulator ( I have an idea) I can built it with the info from the sites you a=gave me.
Here's my idea, let me know want you think.

 

[Peter]

Jim,

I bought TURBO ENGINEERING CORP # 104020 for my car.

1-800-950-8872

$56.00, comes with all fittings. Looks like a nice unit but have not fitted it yet.

Never tried an attachment before . Hope it comes through OK.

 

[b4black]

Will a simple pressure regulator work? They are design to maintain a set downstream pressure. If it was set much hinger than the actuator's opening set point it might work. But they need to have a certain pressure differential before opening, (in other words the incoming pressure needs to be higher than the outgoing pressure). Will they open (crack) consistently?


What we really need is an easily adjusted releif valve and mount that on the dash.

Or how about a bleed valve to bleed off a couple of psi so the actuator opens a little later?

Something to consider with this is that the draw-thru system works off pressure that contain vaporized fuel. Any leak in the passneger compartment wouldn't be good.


Peter, what kinda of device is that?

 

[Ttype83]

Called JCotton today, He has a remote boost control for $45.
It works off of a bleed valve made of brass.

 

[fc227]

Hello;

There are two types of boost control , Bleed off & a check valve that will open at a predetermined boost level . I am using the Check valve, because it builds Boost quicker than the bleed off type.(holds the wastegate shut until the desired boost is reached.)

Both work , BUT TAKE ONE TURN AT A TIME. and have a good boost gauge.

 

[Peter]

attachment

Can't seem to make attachments work. What am I doing wrong?

 

[Ttype83]

Peter the acht might be to big. Make sure that the file is 90KB or smaller. Did you scan the image?

 

[Peter]

Thanks for the tips Jim.
Yes,scanned image.
Have reduced file to 49K bmp, still does not show on Preview?

 

[Peter]

Looks like it came anyway.

 

[Turbo-Rich]

Here's a $35 boost controller but I'm not sure how well it will work for our cars. Thought I'd thow it up.http://www.dawesdevices.com/boost.html
I know, I know, its not adj. from inside the car