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Hot air swap advice please

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Elco

New Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2007
Messages
7
Hello all.

Looking for some advice (hopefully including the cost impact of your suggestion) for my project. Have searched and read quite a bit, but still interested in what you have to say about this specific case

Since this is my first post, little bout me, longtime G body fan, currently have a worked 81 elcamino and have been building cars at home for 20 years, and learning more everyday.

And a little bout this buick project. I've got a 95% complete 85 hot air engine. Story behind it was it got donated to a school along with a dyno by GM, was used for a while & set aside.

I've pulled the covers, oil pan, and a few bearing caps. This sucker is like new inside, we're talking under 500 miles wear. Also removed a black oversprayed oil filter, and the engine has never been repainted. Don't know if the history is true, but the engine's condition would back it up.

So this puppy is going into my next daily driver, after the complete engine package has been put together. Not really sure what that could be, but leading candidates would be a 67-72 chevy shortbox, or molesting the cleanest, lowest mile 73-77 A-body I can find.

The intent is to have something with stock 350 power, but turbo 3.8 mileage and manners. Then drive the wheels off it for 100K.

Now here's the catch. Would probably be fine with swapping a 100% stock engine, but I'm also a hot rodder so that's hard to do, and if we can squeeze a little more out of the stock setup for cheap, that's great. Everyone instantly says to ditch the top end and control system for intercooled stuff, because it'll net 30-40hp, and simplify aftermarket tuning. I really hesitate to do that, because at the moment, my turbo, injectors, etc are all REALLY low hours and don't want the expense of rebuilding high mile intercooled takeoffs on a car I'm gonna drive the wheels off of.

More swap details-
Transmission- standalone 2004r w/vacuum lockup switch, leftover from another project.
What I'm missing- coil packs, MAF, alternator, PS pump.
What I have- everything else, exhaust including downpipe, 2 hot air wire looms, one 85 ecm.


OK, so given what I have, and what I'm missing-
how would you deal with the electronics?
What would you do to coax 30hp out of the hot air?
If you went intercooled, how does that stack cost-wise to replacing what I'm missing to go hot air?
How do I deal with lack of a VSS without a GN instrument cluster?

What's to sort out the tuning? I know from my LT1 cars that self-tuning capability can exceed the hard parts cost.

And the other crackpot question- I deal with a real talented, and real reasonably priced machinist/fabricator. Since the final car will have more underhood room than a regal, should I consider having him fab an in/out spacer under the stock turbo and intercool it that way?

Long post, thanks in advance for the advice
 
hot air engine

You could keep it stock and just add a progressive alcohol system like Razors. While your at it, add an 87 ecm so you can run a Scanmaster.
 
you can get a vss sensor adpater for a good trans shop that would attach
at the trans and the cable would attach to that .
i am dooing a similar setup into my 6 5 special
you could get headers,up and down pipes,adjustable wastegate and fuel pressure regulator ,cold air kit
should be able to get more than 30 extra with these parts and tuning
 
Ahhhh, an add-on VSS, forgot about those. But won't I end up having to program it special because of a different pulse rate?

Do I have to use the 86/87 module & coil pack with the 87 ECM? Not a biggie since they're missing, just wondering.

What's the preferred program to be able to tune with a laptop?

Thanks
 
Having gone to hell and back on my Hot Air with only motor mounts left I can feel your pain. The reality is there is no way you can get a Hot Air going with a simple post. You really need to study your car for about four months before you open up your wallet. A good cost estimate is $8000. Go ahead an nit pic this cost but is is real. My 2 cents Brad
 
$8000 for a stock swap with $1500 worth of parts seems high unless somebody is paid to turn the wrench. $4k seems more realistic.
 
No labor in theses prices.

1. adj fuel pressure regulator-$114
2. Walbro 340 fuel pump-$120-hot wire $60
3. Poston headers-$529
4. Hooker high flow exhaust-$348
5. Ta33c turbo-$930
6. 87 ECM- $100
7 Chip $85
8. Ported heads and intake-$1700
9 Electric fans and wiring conversion- $225
10 F body radiator-$130
11 Mickey thomson drag radials-$328
12 Transmission with 2899 stall converter-$1600
13 Poly motor mounts-$230
14 Razor Alky kit and 3 bar MAP-$600
15 Knock Gauge-$90
16 Scanmaster-$250
17 Frame brace kits-$ 125
18 Intergated 2 1/2 downpipe-eliminates turbo elbo-$850
19 NGK 6 spark pluge ~60
20 87 ignition coil and module-$250
21 87 ign conversion kit- $125
22 87 MAF-$90
23 Ported throttle body-$80
24 Cols air lit-$80

These parts come to $8431 and they do not include labor. This one way you can get a hot air moving fast. Take care- Brad
 
Alec296- I recommend you dump an 85/84 ignition system. No parts are available . Time to bury the past and move on to reality which is 2007-not 1985. Our cars are easily upgraded to today's standards. Take care- Brad

P.S. There is a picnic for our cars on July 28- Busse woods. Check out the Midwest section on this board. I hope to see you there- Brad again
 
No labor in theses prices.

1. adj fuel pressure regulator-$114
2. Walbro 340 fuel pump-$120-hot wire $60
3. Poston headers-$529
4. Hooker high flow exhaust-$348
5. Ta33c turbo-$930
6. 87 ECM- $100
7 Chip $85
8. Ported heads and intake-$1700
9 Electric fans and wiring conversion- $225
10 F body radiator-$130
11 Mickey thomson drag radials-$328
12 Transmission with 2899 stall converter-$1600
13 Poly motor mounts-$230
14 Razor Alky kit and 3 bar MAP-$600
15 Knock Gauge-$90
16 Scanmaster-$250
17 Frame brace kits-$ 125
18 Intergated 2 1/2 downpipe-eliminates turbo elbo-$850
19 NGK 6 spark pluge ~60
20 87 ignition coil and module-$250
21 87 ign conversion kit- $125
22 87 MAF-$90
23 Ported throttle body-$80
24 Cols air lit-$80

These parts come to $8431 and they do not include labor. This one way you can get a hot air moving fast. Take care- Brad

Oh my god, did I really spend that much money!!! Brad your making me sick :eek: Aside from the Drag radials and the TA49 instead of a TA33c, that's my car.
 
No labor in theses prices.

1. adj fuel pressure regulator-$114
2. Walbro 340 fuel pump-$120-hot wire $60
6. 87 ECM- $100
7 Chip $85
10 F body radiator-$130
15 Knock Gauge-$90
16 Scanmaster-$250
19 NGK 6 spark pluge ~60
20 87 ignition coil and module-$250
21 87 ign conversion kit- $125
22 87 MAF-$90


These parts come to $8431 and they do not include labor. This one way you can get a hot air moving fast. Take care- Brad

Took the liberty of editing your list to reflect my project instead of yours. $1354.

You're obviously knowledgable about what you're doing. But I'm doing something different.

Thanks again for the advice. I am seriously considering dumping the older ignition for the aftermarket supported 86/87. Actually at the point where I'm considering ditching the factory control system entirely. Have heard thru the grapevine that some are using late F body ECMs for easy laptop tuning.
 
Your design will be lucky if if breaks a 14.3 quarter. Remember-Stock these cars ran a 15.0 quarter. Good luck. Brad
 
wow brad glad you posted your setup you dont even want to see mine. i have all that list and then some.
 
Your design will be lucky if if breaks a 14.3 quarter. Remember-Stock these cars ran a 15.0 quarter. Good luck. Brad

That is absolutely the idea. And it may not be a car, it may be a 67-72 chevy shortbox. This is a fuel efficient daily driver project, just like the original post says. If you have any recommendations or parts lists on how to help make a stock engine standalone in another chassis I would love to hear. Thanks for the well wishes.
 
I apoligize because I got confused with this thread an one who wants to break into the low twelves. I would add to your list a Poston passenger side header. You should be good to go. Take-care. Brad
 
Cool, miscommunication explains it all. For low 12s your 8k number sounds totally reasonable.

OK, I'll bite. Why one header? Does one of the OEM manifolds flow significantly worse than the other?
 
Yes, The passenger side header is a known restriction point.

You should also add to the list a fuel pressure gauge and boost gauge if you don't have them.
 
Above is a list of Mods whcih will get you into the twelves. Their are alot of other lists as well. Check GNTTYPE.ORG. Brad
 
i have a 85 ttype that has a bad ignition module. i have 2 new modules but i am not sure if it is the right one.can any one tell me the correct part number? the numbers i have are 25516194 and25518358. does anyone have a good used one for sale? at one time there was a site that should how to test a module and a coil packfor a 85. any help would be greatly appricated. thanks frank
 
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