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How can I tell if my converter is actually locking at WOT??

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87LtdT

Active Member
Joined
May 26, 2001
Messages
1,166
How can I tell if my converter is actually locking at WOT?? Problem Found & Fixed:)

Looking at DS data I see no difference in RPM when (or after) TCC light comes on.

Wondering if the converter is doing what it's supposed to do.

Thx, Bob
 
There should be a noticable RPM drop and the tone of the motor should change.
Take care, Kip
 
Well, if you're running a "street" chip, the converter will not lock-up at wot unless it was burned into the chip.
 
Use your manual lockup switch on a deserted highway in 3rd gear and record the run.

Lock it up at 75 or so, you should feel it like another gear.

Then let off. :)
 
Bob
If the TCC lite comes on the T/C should lock ,I had that problem for years , ecm calls for t/c lockup at wot and there is no change in rpm , My problem was crossleaks in the trans pump .
Now when the t/c locks it feels like a gear change ,rpm drops and the car picks up speed ,you can really feel this .
May have to send your transmission pump to vince janice for blueprinting.
BTW, does the T/C lock up under normal driving ???

Mark
 
Something is wrong....just went for a very careful test drive to be sure if converter was locking...

1) When the DS TCC lights there is no audible rpm change, no drop in rpm, nor any change in the seat of the pants feel. No change.

2) With a known good switch installed in top left and top right holes of ALDL connector, at a constant speed in 4th gear, with no TCC light on I can flip switch on-off-on-off with no change in rpm, etc.

I noticed my inability to make a TCC switch work with my previous Testa chip but just thought it somehow blocked the TCC lock...don't think the Extender does that so I'm confident something is wrong.

Either the converter is NOT a lockup style or...

Please fill in other possibilities here.

Thanks, Bob
 
Something is wrong....just went for a very careful test drive to be sure if converter was locking...

1) When the DS TCC lights there is no audible rpm change, no drop in rpm, nor any change in the seat of the pants feel. No change.

2) With a known good switch installed in top left and top right holes of ALDL connector, at a constant speed in 4th gear, with no TCC light on I can flip switch on-off-on-off with no change in rpm, etc.

I noticed my inability to make a TCC switch work with my previous Testa chip but just thought it somehow blocked the TCC lock...don't think the Extender does that so I'm confident something is wrong.

Either the converter is NOT a lockup style or...

Please fill in other possibilities here.

Thanks, Bob
 
Next step is to check for power and ground on the connector at the tranny.

Disconnect it and key on switch on you should have power and ground on pins A and D of the connector.

A is the purple wire should be +12 to a good ground with the key on and brake switch NOT pressed.

Ground is the tan/Blk wire that should be grounded when the ECM commands it which you can't do in da driveway, but should be a good ground when you close your switch to the ALDL wiring.

Need to see if the signals are getting to the tranny.

Also measure the two pins on the transmission itself that correspond to those two wires A and D.

You should read 10-20 ohms or so the solenoid coil.

If it is open circuit that could be a bad solenoid.

Lots to check before dropping the pan.

Need to see if the brake switch is good.
 
OK thanks Alan..but if I electrocute myself with an ohm-meter my wife is gonna be mad...a little :)

Will advise.

Bob
 
Alan, I did some checks but am unsure of what I should do...will send you an e-mail. Bob
 
My RPMs at 55-60 mph are around 1800. That is a good indication of lockup. There is about 300 RPM difference locked versus unlocked. At 65-70, RPM is about 2100-2150. Unlocked is about 2500-2600. You will see the RPMs drop on a tach after going into 4th if it's locking up. If you barely touch the brake pedal, the RPMs should jump up an equal amount.
 
Thanks John...the rpm does not change when converter is commanded (DS indication)...and I can't get it to lock with the ALDL switch.

Something is wrong...

By the way....IRP was slick as snot last Tuesday...I ran 12.2x to 12.3x at 115.25, 115.11, 115.10, 114.87. Lots-o-wheelspin at launch...let out each time...best 60' was 1.9x.

Disappointed with speed too. But I did put it on a Grand Cherokee....lol

Bob
 
Also check to make sure the brake switch isn't partially depressed. The brake switch is a 3 stage switch, 1st kicks out the TCC, 2nd, kicks out the Cruise control, and lastly, kicks on the brake lights. Sometimes the switch gets out of adjustment and the switch stays partially depressed, causing the TCC to never engage.

Ed

EDIT: It's been a couple years......for some reason I'm thinking the brake switch needs to be fully depressed when the brake pedal is in the up position. You'll have a better idea what I'm trying to say when ya get under there and look! :D
 
I have 2 switches on mine a lower and one up closer to the column that is white.I had the same trouble,after looking into it I found the upper switch was not coming in contact with the pedal arm making it look the brakes are on thus keeping the TC from locking no matter what.This will overide a tcc switch too if memory serves correct.
 
IRP just isn't worth it to me. Long lines, ricers, pits full. I hope to head to Muncie one time before they close. Gonna be tight.
 
Originally posted by John Larkin
IRP just isn't worth it to me. Long lines, ricers, pits full. I hope to head to Muncie one time before they close. Gonna be tight.


Those guys from Indiana give good advice sometimes.....yet sometimes ya got to wonder 'bout 'em!!! LOL :D

Too many windows open John??
 
I'll look at my brake switch(s) and see. Nothin like standing on your head with a steering wheel in your crotch...lol.

Thanks for the tips.

Bob
 
Yeah Bob,all I had to do was push it back up towards the arm so it made contact,2 second repair.let us know
 
All OK now...lockup switch works and converter locks up as it should via ECM. Life is good!!!

Checked electrics at the transmission harness again and still didn't have an voltage at purple wire. But the tan/blk ground wire was OK. Checked fuse...OK.

Looked at the brake and white switches that go to brake pedal and they appeared to be positioned OK. Back probed the white switch and it's electrical circuit was erratic when plunger was moved. Disassembled and all looked OK...no corrosion. I bent the 2 contact tangs inward a bit...reassembled and circuit was stable regardless of plunger position (don't mean it was on all the time but that it was constantly made circuit when it was supposed to be).

Reassembled everything and found 11.7V at trans harness connection. Took for test drive and the manual switch locks converter as it should, and the converter locks when ECM commands it....life is good!!

At 67MPH /2506 rpm...converter locks and rpm drop to 1980 and speed picks up 1mph...at same TPS voltage.

Thanks to you all...

Bob
 
All OK now...lockup switch works and converter locks up as it should via ECM. Life is good!!!

Checked electrics at the transmission harness again and still didn't have an voltage at purple wire. But the tan/blk ground wire was OK. Checked fuse...OK.

Looked at the brake and white switches that go to brake pedal and they appeared to be positioned OK. Back probed the white switch and it's electrical circuit was erratic when plunger was moved. Disassembled and all looked OK...no corrosion. I bent the 2 contact tangs inward a bit...reassembled and circuit was stable regardless of plunger position (don't mean it was on all the time but that it was constantly made circuit when it was supposed to be).

Reassembled everything and found 11.7V at trans harness connection. Took for test drive and the manual switch locks converter as it should, and the converter locks when ECM commands it....life is good!!

At 67MPH /2506 rpm...converter locks and rpm drop to 1980 and speed picks up 1mph...at same TPS voltage.

Thanks to you all...

Bob
 
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