how do i do a boost test?

[cecil bass]

does anyone have the instructions or a link to show me how to do a boost test so I can check for leaks. I know I have some kind of leak cause my o2 #'s keep dropping out , and my fuel mileage is really really crappy. is there something else that can cause my car to use so much gas. I just did my spring cleaning a few months ago. I don't have access to a smoke machine, so where do I go from here?

 

[GNONYX]

I have not not made this type of tool, but it does look interesting.
Although this test is for a Honda engine, but this will give you an idea to make it fit the TR turbo inlet opening.

Or you can buy this type: http://www.turboboostleaktesters.com/servlet/StoreFront

 

[Heisenberg]

This link got me started.

But I made a few modifications.

1 -I made a male to male hose for connecting to my air regulator
I use an inline adjustable air pressure filter / regulator set to 25 PSI
2- I keep the connection to the air compressor all the time - not just pump it up like a tire
If you have leaks - and you will - you'll need constant flow to find them
3 - When he says the pvc plug will pop out - he isn't kidding.
Not only does the pvc plug pop out - but the coupler will pop off the turbo inlet bell
I hade to eventually install screws on both the plug end as well as an old turbo inlet bell
I decided to go ahead and scrap the old style inlet bell - by permanently screwing the coupler to it.
I bolt the whole thing on using the 2 8Mmm inlet bell nuts.
4 - I used a 2-1/2" to 3" Spectre reducer coupler
I bought mine from Advance, but I don't really like it since it is so inflexible, and makes it really hard to get it to clamp firmly.
I would have preferred a softer silicone coupler

 

[trixdout]

Check to see that your fuel pressure is no higher than 43 vac line off when car is running. Higher fuel pressure can make you run your tank empty much quicker than normal. Had it happen to me. Do that first.

And a boost test.... Cap off intake tube after maf, cap off the exhaust. Then take your air compressor tank line and hook it up to a vac line I use the map sensor line. Make sure you turn down the regulator on the tank to about 20psi.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Heisenberg]

Check to see that your fuel pressure is no higher than 43 vac line off when car is running. Higher fuel pressure can make you run your tank empty much quicker than normal. Had it happen to me. Do that first.

And a boost test.... Cap off intake tube after maf, cap off the exhaust. Then take your air compressor tank line and hook it up to a vac line I use the map sensor line. Make sure you turn down the regulator on the tank to about 20psi.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

The only difference between my method and yours is that I apply pressure directly to the inlet bell and let it find it's way thru the complete system.
In fact - it found several leaks at the MAP connection to the hardline - where if I had used your method - I wouldn't have found them.
Not saying yours is bad - since it seems easier than rigging the inlet bell (although you still have to plug it)
I'm just saying I preferred to test the entire system - untouched - as it is to run.

 

[trixdout]

The only difference between my method and yours is that I apply pressure directly to the inlet bell and let it find it's way thru the complete system.
In fact - it found several leaks at the MAP connection to the hardline - where if I had used your method - I wouldn't have found them.
Not saying yours is bad - since it seems easier than rigging the inlet bell (although you still have to plug it)
I'm just saying I preferred to test the entire system - untouched - as it is to run.

It's kool. My way tests the whole system complete as well. The rocker shaft is not removed valve covers still in place and all. I didn't have the issue with the hard line, I roved it a while back. Used a hose so that there is less connections to leak from


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Heisenberg]

I have not not made this type of tool, but it does look interesting.
Although this test is for a Honda engine, but this will give you an idea to make it fit the TR turbo inlet opening.

Or you can buy this type: http://www.turboboostleaktesters.com/servlet/StoreFront

For 30 bucks - those are pretty reasonably priced.
I didn't see a Buick version - but considering the time and materials I have in mine - it's not a heck of a lot more.

 

[Heisenberg]

It's kool. My way tests the whole system complete as well. The rocker shaft is not removed valve covers still in place and all. I didn't have the issue with the hard line, I roved it a while back. Used a hose so that there is less connections to leak from


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Among many other leaks - I found this at the MAP section

 

[Heisenberg]

It's kool. My way tests the whole system complete as well. The rocker shaft is not removed valve covers still in place and all. I didn't have the issue with the hard line, I roved it a while back. Used a hose so that there is less connections to leak from


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

I didn't hear a heck of a lot of leakage past the butterfly in the TB.
I know it can't be airtight - but it seemed to hold pretty well - so that all the other leaks could be spotted.
Hence - I wasn't blowing much at all into the intake and beyond valves etc

 

[Heisenberg]

does anyone have the instructions or a link to show me how to do a boost test so I can check for leaks. I know I have some kind of leak cause my o2 #'s keep dropping out , and my fuel mileage is really really crappy. is there something else that can cause my car to use so much gas. I just did my spring cleaning a few months ago. I don't have access to a smoke machine, so where do I go from here?

I'm far rom an O2 expert, but if you're talking about a stock O2 sensor - it will bounce back and forth across the stoichiometric.
But I suppose the O2 sensor can be going bad - reporting a lean condition - then the ECM enriches the fuel mixture - thus you're poorer fuel economy.
O2 sensors are cheap and easy to access.
Perhaps it is worth a try to replace it and see what the readings are.

And of course - nothing wrong with doing a boost test as well. since you'll almost for sure find leaks.

 

[cecil bass]

I'm far rom an O2 expert, but if you're talking about a stock O2 sensor - it will bounce back and forth across the stoichiometric.
But I suppose the O2 sensor can be going bad - reporting a lean condition - then the ECM enriches the fuel mixture - thus you're poorer fuel economy.
O2 sensors are cheap and easy to access.
Perhaps it is worth a try to replace it and see what the readings are.

And of course - nothing wrong with doing a boost test as well. since you'll almost for sure find leaks.

The o2 sensor is brand new and is one of the heated ones with the harness and I also have a TT chip. The o2's stay in the 700-800's most of the time but every once and a while it drops to 000 or in the 100's that's when the idle starts to go all funny. thank you guys for all your info I don't know what I would do without you guys .......... sell my car prob =

 

[cecil bass]

I'm far rom an O2 expert, but if you're talking about a stock O2 sensor - it will bounce back and forth across the stoichiometric.
But I suppose the O2 sensor can be going bad - reporting a lean condition - then the ECM enriches the fuel mixture - thus you're poorer fuel economy.
O2 sensors are cheap and easy to access.
Perhaps it is worth a try to replace it and see what the readings are.

And of course - nothing wrong with doing a boost test as well. since you'll almost for sure find leaks.

The o2 sensor is brand new and is one of the heated ones with the harness and I also have a TT chip. The o2's stay in the 700-800's most of the time but every once and a while it drops to 000 or in the 100's that's when the idle starts to go all funny. thank you guys for all your info I don't know what I would do without you guys .......... sell my car prob =

 

[cecil bass]

I'm far rom an O2 expert, but if you're talking about a stock O2 sensor - it will bounce back and forth across the stoichiometric.
But I suppose the O2 sensor can be going bad - reporting a lean condition - then the ECM enriches the fuel mixture - thus you're poorer fuel economy.
O2 sensors are cheap and easy to access.
Perhaps it is worth a try to replace it and see what the readings are.

And of course - nothing wrong with doing a boost test as well. since you'll almost for sure find leaks.

The o2 sensor is brand new and is one of the heated ones with the harness and I also have a TT chip. The o2's stay in the 700-800's most of the time but every once and a while it drops to 000 or in the 100's that's when the idle starts to go all funny. thank you guys for all your info I don't know what I would do without you guys .......... sell my car prob =

 

[cecil bass]

ooops sorry for the muli post !!!!!!