How does this sound for paint?

[Lhorn]

Want to paint the GN myself. It's very straight and I've painted some single stage paint myself and done body work with good results. I'd like to use a BC/CC and have a few questions.

The guy at the paint store recommended the following:
1. DPX etching primer over the bare metal. The top surfaces of the car are cracked, but I thought I'd strip the whole car.
2. High build primer (I think it's 913 PCL).
3.DBU color - about a gallon (plus reducer etc) for the whole car
4. DCU clear - about a gallon plus reducer/catalyst

I want a very good quality paint. Something that has show quality potential (although I'm not expecting this of myself). IS this a good line? Any other suggestions.

I planned on painting the high build primer the same day as the etching primer. (one in the am, the other in the pm). That oK?

Block, block, block

Paint the color in the am and the clear in the pm. If I get a bit of orange peel in the color, but the clear goes on more smooth, or if I color sand the clear smooth, will the orange peel in the color show?

Thanks

 

[zam70]

OH boy....
Never heard of the paint company...Best paint I've seen to date is the Spies Hecker line - awesome and easy to work with...Sikkens used to be #1 IMO but, they have reformulted and it is..well..not good now.
There is ALOT of good paint companys out there. You can go fairly cheap on the color side (although it might take you more coats for coverage) but use good clear.
For inexpensive paint, the Lesonal line by Sikkens is really good. For the good stuff - use the Spies Hecker.

Read up on painting a little bit - ESPECIALLY the paint manufacturers recommendations.

Primer am/pm will be fine BUT, your clear coat goes on soon after the base (what ever the manufacturer recommends)

If you want it show quality, plan on at least 3+ prime and block sessions using a flat board.

Good luck AND - It'll be more work than you ever dreamed....

The base coat won't orange peel - it is flat color (no shine) so when you spray it, your car will have a satin finish. when you put on the clear, that's where the shine comes from.

If you want show quality, plan on 1 1/2+ gallons of clear. Wet sanding the finish flat removes a ton of material so you have to start with alot.

If you want it ultra smooth/flat - wet sand the clear coat when set and then apply a final 2 - 3 coats of clear...smoooooooth

 

[Red Regal T]

Sounds like PPG to me. Correct? Any good quality paint can give you a show quality paint job. You might be able to get some pointers from this thread from down the page.


http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=116555

 

[S10xGN]

Those are indeed PPG numbers. I have a friend who paints for a hobby (30+ cars so far). He uses PPG primers and base coats and "Rubberseal" brand clearcoat (because it's easier to sand and buff) almost exclusively.

 

[Lhorn]

Doh! Sorry about that. As S10 has confirmed, it's PPG. Thanks for the replies.

 

[JP87GN]

Definatly PPG #'s, stripping the car is a very good idea, If you don't, those problems will haunt you later. Sounds like your headed in the right direction but, the less material you put on the car the better of you will be. if paint is 10 mils thick it will chip much easier. The prep is most important on a pait job, if you have big sandscratches or pinholes they will show up on the best painters. Good luck

 

[HYBRIDT]

Only thing I can recomend is to let the high build primer layers cure extensively before sanding and re-applying. You can get some serious suck-back if you spray it on and sand it as soon as it dries then spray on another coat. If you rush it you'll have awesome looking paint as soon as you're done, then after a week, a month or two (who knows) you'll start to see the sanding scratches under the paint and clear. If I have the time I like to wait at least 24 hrs before sanding the primer, but then you can apply the next layer of primer(or paint) right away.

Adam

 

[Red Regal T]

Adam, nice job on your HYBRID T. Did you know that a lot of Cutlasses have aluminum hoods?

 

[HYBRIDT]

Not to highjack, but no I was completely unaware. I was just looking for parts to fix my totaled car and liked the headlights. When I poped the hood and there was no shocks in the back I thought it was wierd. I don't know that I had ever seen that before. Any ideas what to look for to find an aluminum hood? The car I robbed the stuff from was a deisel.

Adam

 

[Red Regal T]

Can't tell you specifically except that it doesn't have to be a special model. Any two door could have the aluminum hood. It's very light. If you have any yards with a turnover, you could probably find one. Around here, cutlasses outnumber Regals in the yards I go to by 10 to 1.

 

[turbofish38]

Easiest way to spot an aluminum hood or deck lid is they dont rust. Also on the bottom side, on the inner support there will be the letter A stamped into the support. Also they are lighter than air and they have different springs(linkages) that I think are shiney aluminum color. If not take a magnet with you.