How hard, to change rear main seal ?
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turboman38
It costs money to go fast
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2001
- Messages
- 387
More time consuming than it is hard. Hardest part was getting the old seal out. The rope seals have a tendancy to disintegrate and you have to get all of it out. Also a bit of a pain to remove the passenger side bolts that hold on the cross over pipe but other than that it's not bad. Couple oil pan bolts in the front are hard to get to but if you use a box end wrench you can get to them. Take your time and be patient.
BoostKillsStres
TIRE-FRYER VIA HAIR-DRYER
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 1,678
I'd attack it over a weekend if I were you. I wasn't able to get my pan out without pulling the bolts for both engine mounts no matter how I turned the crank, what a pain.....
TIPS:
I preglued the pan gasket to the pan and turned it upside down and put 50 lbs of weight on it, turned out great, gasket didn't budge while working the pan back on the engine.
To get the top half of the rear seal out, I found an old I bolt I had that was about 5 inches long and had small wood screw type threads just smaller than the rope seal. It worked great, threaded it into one side of the seal and while pulling on it I was pushing the other side up with a small screwdriver, seal came out in two pulls. You can also use a long wood or sheetrock screw and grab it with vise grips to pull on. I think its helpful to take a very small screwdriver and shove up between the block and the rope seal on both sides to try and brake it free as much as you can first.
I tried the rubber felpro side seals on the cap but that was a pain trying to get them in there with some sealer on them. And I didn't like the idea of forcing silicone in the gaps with the cap in place for fear of having an air pocket that may leak....Solution...I prefilled the sides with silicone then once I got the cap in place I did as the instructions on gnttype state and used the silicone tube to force in more...no leaks so far
and no worries about air pockets in it.
Buy some brake clean as it works great at removing all oil residue from the parts so the silicone bonds perfectly. Carb cleaner leaves residue behind. Also, don't forget to lightly gease or oil the seal on the crank side before install, you don't want it burning against the crank on initial startup.
Hope that helps.
TIPS:
I preglued the pan gasket to the pan and turned it upside down and put 50 lbs of weight on it, turned out great, gasket didn't budge while working the pan back on the engine.
To get the top half of the rear seal out, I found an old I bolt I had that was about 5 inches long and had small wood screw type threads just smaller than the rope seal. It worked great, threaded it into one side of the seal and while pulling on it I was pushing the other side up with a small screwdriver, seal came out in two pulls. You can also use a long wood or sheetrock screw and grab it with vise grips to pull on. I think its helpful to take a very small screwdriver and shove up between the block and the rope seal on both sides to try and brake it free as much as you can first.
I tried the rubber felpro side seals on the cap but that was a pain trying to get them in there with some sealer on them. And I didn't like the idea of forcing silicone in the gaps with the cap in place for fear of having an air pocket that may leak....Solution...I prefilled the sides with silicone then once I got the cap in place I did as the instructions on gnttype state and used the silicone tube to force in more...no leaks so far
and no worries about air pockets in it.Buy some brake clean as it works great at removing all oil residue from the parts so the silicone bonds perfectly. Carb cleaner leaves residue behind. Also, don't forget to lightly gease or oil the seal on the crank side before install, you don't want it burning against the crank on initial startup.
Hope that helps.
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