How I port and paint a turbo.

Ok, I have a Precision 6265 Turbo and I am trying to pull the exhaust housing off. This is a journal bearing turbo and I was able to removed the compressor housing, but when trying to remove the exhaust housing bolts I was able to remove three or four of the five or six. There are two that I can't remove and hence it is prohibiting me from removing the exhaust housing. I assume these two bolts were put in first as they do not clearance the cartridge. I am not sure though and I realize that a picture is worth a thousand words and I will upload a couple of images. It probably something simple or I can't take this turbo apart for painting.
 
Ok, I have a Precision 6265 Turbo and I am trying to pull the exhaust housing off. This is a journal bearing turbo and I was able to removed the compressor housing, but when trying to remove the exhaust housing bolts I was able to remove three or four of the five or six. There are two that I can't remove and hence it is prohibiting me from removing the exhaust housing. I assume these two bolts were put in first as they do not clearance the cartridge. I am not sure though and I realize that a picture is worth a thousand words and I will upload a couple of images. It probably something simple or I can't take this turbo apart for painting.
Once you crack all the bolts loose, you should be able to rotate the exhaust housing on the center section. This will allow you to remove all bolts.
 
Once you crack all the bolts loose, you should be able to rotate the exhaust housing on the center section. This will allow you to remove all bolts.
I will double check. Given the fact that I have never cracked a turbo apart, makes me give pause because I don't want to have to have the turbo rebuilt or outright ruin it. Even though this turbo is about 10 years old, it has a couple of thousand miles on it and not a single pass or even a single instance of WOT.
 
Once you crack all the bolts loose, you should be able to rotate the exhaust housing on the center section. This will allow you to remove all bolts.
So I figured it pretty easily after I gained more confidence talking to you. I was able to tap the exhaust housing with a mallet and I noticed that it moved a little and a few more taps I had clearance. Now on to cleaning and painting. Although the cartridge still has the paint on it from when I originally bought it new from Bison. The turbo only has a few thousand miles on it with no real hard runs. After painting, time to install SPOOLFOOL Vacuum Brake Conversion and then onto the bumper fillers.
 
Should the exhaust housing be media blasted if the bare cast iron can't be achieved with a wire bush or a wire wheel with a drill? I attached a couple images and even using the wire wheel and drill I can't seem to get to the bare metal. When I first got the turbo I put some type of graphite coating on it, I got it from a guy who was doing his Cadillac headers with it. I am thinking that is the coating that adhered to the housing and I don't want to paint it and then have the paint not adhere because I didn't prepare it before painting.
 

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Should the exhaust housing be media blasted if the bare cast iron can't be achieved with a wire bush or a wire wheel with a drill? I attached a couple images and even using the wire wheel and drill I can't seem to get to the bare metal. When I first got the turbo I put some type of graphite coating on it, I got it from a guy who was doing his Cadillac headers with it. I am thinking that is the coating that adhered to the housing and I don't want to paint it and then have the paint not adhere because I didn't prepare it before painting.
Looks like a ceramic coat. I'd blast it with something.
 
Looks like a ceramic coat. I'd blast it with something.
I bought the turbo brand new from Bison and the exhaust housing was the base casting, no paint or ceramic coat. As I mentioned some dude on met online who worked at a location right next to I-75, which I took to work, offered me a little bit of the graphite to coat the exhaust housing and it appeared to work ok. I did have some rust spots to clean-up as I was preparing the housing for painting and I initially used a wire brush from Harbor Freight to try and remove the rust and then I switched over to a wire wheel and my drill. I am not sure what metal the wire wheel is made out of, but I think that it what is giving the housing the ceramic coated look. I also used my Dremel to try and clean the housing up to the bare metal look, to be as clean as the housing you started with, and I think that may have contributed to it looking like it has been ceramic coated. As a matter or fact I think using the Dremel with a sanding drum heated the graphite coating up and made it adhere even better and turned it into a shinier looking coat. Who knows, but I do have someone who will media or abrasive blast it for me. I purchased the same cleaner you recommend for cleaning before painting. In addition, I also bought the same Factory Gray Paint from Eastwood, however, I decided that I wanted to go with a satin silver color to match other components on my engine. Of course the color won't matter too much once you do your next run on the turbo shields.

Anyway, time to remove the Powermaster and install your vacuum brake conversion kit and then your front and rear bumper fillers and finally install and see how well your transmission inspection pan works at absorbing oil.
 
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