How I port and paint a turbo.

SMOKINGV6

UDLOSE
Mar 24, 2004
54
0
6
CHICAGOLAND AREA
Very nice, but how do you re install that fitting without risking burning out the turbo? I would like to do mine but it is a used unit and has no yellow markings.
 

SPOOLFOOL2

Fiberglass bumper filler dude. (949) 433-1257
Staff member
Apr 4, 2002
5,519
1,462
113
Huntington Beach CA.
spoolfoolproductions.com
I would like to warn people not to take that oil fitting off. When I did the BB cartridge shifted and the turbo would not go back together. I had to mail it to precision to put it back together. Also do not run and jump out of an airplane with scissors.
Different turbos are different. I've never had a problem removing the oil fitting on stock center sections, It was not a problem on my 6265 (water cooled) dbl BB, and I don't believe it was a problem on this 6262 dbl BB as per Denis at Precision Turbo. This turbo did make a loud squealing noise once the engine was fired up the first time. It was later reveled to me that the oil feed line was accidentally cross threaded onto the center section fitting and most likely knocked a thread down the oil feed hole. This turbo was sent back to Precision to be cleaned out and now runs quiet.

Whatever is being done to a turbo, care needs to be taken not to get debris down the oil feed hole or failure will be likely. If you remove the painted seal on the center section fitting, you will most likely void the warranty. If you are not comfortable voiding the warranty or are uncertain if you should take it apart, just tape off the fitting, paint around it, or call the turbo manufacturer for advice. Turbo technology is rapidly advancing and what works for one turbo may not work for another.

Once again, I welcome all constructive advice and comments, as I do not consider myself a "Turbo expert".

Now, where did my scissors go?:p


Happy Spooling.
Mike B.
 

turboc87gn

Darkside in Detroit
Oct 2, 2008
2,147
79
48
Wasteland Mich
There was a thread where someone used silver por-20 but ur supposed to bake it on at 300 degrees do you think sticking the whole turbo in an oven would damage anything( the seal on the cold side) considering how hot they get?
 

"Black Ice"

Member
Jan 2, 2010
171
13
18
Roxboro, N.C.
B
Nothing worse than paying big bucks for a new hairdryer, only to watch it slowly rust away in your nice looking engine compartment. Since it should come apart to port out the waist gate hole anyways, this is the perfect time to paint it too. Here's the Precision 6265 dbl BB turbo on my GN that I did a few years ago. It still lools like new, even after many hundreds of street, strip, and dyno floggings.


First the porting.
---------------------

With turbo and downpipe on the bench, remove the compressor and exhaust housings. Use some Dykem blue around the waistgate hole. Scrape off some wax pencil or crayon on the edge of the puck.


Bolt the downpipe to the exhaust housing and slap the puck against the hole area to make a mark. You can also reach your finger in through the exhaust housing intake and spin the puck while you have it in the closed position.


Remove the downpipe and darken the red mark, using a circle templet if needed. Note, puck will most likely not be centered on the factory hole.


draw another circle 1/16 to 1/8" inside the puck circle. Chose your weapon for removing metal. The 90 deg. air drill shown here likes to jump around. The big drill is very steady and gives you a good hanle to put some weight on. The little Dremmel tool is nice for finish work of smooting things out and getting around corners, as you'll want to round and smooth the inside corners to maximize air flow. It does make a huge difference.


Finished port job.



Next. Painting the center section and exhaust housing.

Mike Barnard[/QUOT
Nothing worse than paying big bucks for a new hairdryer, only to watch it slowly rust away in your nice looking engine compartment. Since it should come apart to port out the waist gate hole anyways, this is the perfect time to paint it too. Here's the Precision 6265 dbl BB turbo on my GN that I did a few years ago. It still lools like new, even after many hundreds of street, strip, and dyno floggings.


First the porting.
---------------------

With turbo and downpipe on the bench, remove the compressor and exhaust housings. Use some Dykem blue around the waistgate hole. Scrape off some wax pencil or crayon on the edge of the puck.


Bolt the downpipe to the exhaust housing and slap the puck against the hole area to make a mark. You can also reach your finger in through the exhaust housing intake and spin the puck while you have it in the closed position.


Remove the downpipe and darken the red mark, using a circle templet if needed. Note, puck will most likely not be centered on the factory hole.


draw another circle 1/16 to 1/8" inside the puck circle. Chose your weapon for removing metal. The 90 deg. air drill shown here likes to jump around. The big drill is very steady and gives you a good hanle to put some weight on. The little Dremmel tool is nice for finish work of smooting things out and getting around corners, as you'll want to round and smooth the inside corners to maximize air flow. It does make a huge difference.


Finished port job.



Next. Painting the center section and exhaust housing.

Mike Barnard
By opening up the puck hole in the elbow what does this do? Letting the waste out faster?
 

NY Twin Turbo

All the good stuff.....Times 2.
Dec 10, 2014
2,471
831
113
47
Westchester NY
I ordered my turbos polished with ceramic high temp silver coating on the exhaust housings. The center sections did not have any coating at all. I noticed that after a while they started to get very little rust blossoms forming around the flanges to the headers. I took them off and carefully cleaned off the center sections with lacquer thinner applied with a soft small paint brush then air dried. I then painted the center section with an artist's brush using Eastwood's cast iron high-temp paint. The exhaust housings were cleaned off a little with Scotch-Brite and then using an artist's brush again, touched up with BBQ aluminum paint.

This has become a regular maintenance thing every year or so. I no longer take them off to do it. I just use an artist's brush with some rags under the turbos so I don't get any drips anywhere. It's not that bad to do it this way. Just takes a little patience. 8 years later......and my two old Turbonetics 60's look brand new!
 
  • Like
Reactions: SPOOLFOOL2

NY Twin Turbo

All the good stuff.....Times 2.
Dec 10, 2014
2,471
831
113
47
Westchester NY
Joey,
Post up some pics when you get the chance. :)
I haven't been to the garage this weekend yet. Still too cold and very windy today. I hope things get better before you fly out to see us. I'm finding it hard to find the incentive to de-winterize the Buick. At this rate I won't drive it till August. These pics were posted after the Cecil Maryland event in September. you might have to zoom in on the turbos a little.



15289533216_5ff535fe62_c.jpg
15289530076_9f26d38a82_c.jpg
15312581175_e1c84f451e_c.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: SPOOLFOOL2

NY Twin Turbo

All the good stuff.....Times 2.
Dec 10, 2014
2,471
831
113
47
Westchester NY
Hard core!:D
Sometimes all the glare makes it difficult to see the details. When I take it to car shows I try to position it rear end to the sun. So this way, the hood provides the shade, and all the good stuff and attention to hose and wire routing can be appreciated.

Anyway, as you can see......keeping a nice engine compartment can be done. Turbos and down pipes are a pain in the ass. I remove the downpipes every spring and buff them out. They turn gold a day later. But they won't tarnish again till fall. The turbos are detailed regularly as I stated earlier.

Time consuming?............ Yes.
Is it worth it?...................Hell yes!
 
  • Like
Reactions: SPOOLFOOL2
Top Bottom