how much will a stock bottome end hold

[crazygn]

i told the guys on the fbody board that i was going to tune and run upper 20's on boost with c16 and they said i was crazy, that the bottom end will blow .

i thought i have seen people running 30's on the stockbottom end, and the record is like high 9's right. what kind of hp will the bottom end hold.


thanks

 

[FastRegalWE2]

funny, when I told my dad I bought a GN the first thinig he said to me was, "Arent those things notorious for blowing their guts all over the street?" I said NO DAD THEY ARE NOT!!!! But hell, I dont know I had mine less than a month.

 

[86brick]

The fastest I know of for a stock bottom end (shortblock) down to the factory main caps is low 10's (10teens and 10.0hs) @135mph with a 3500-3600lb GN (that's about 700-750hp at the flywheel).... The guys name is Orlando and he has been running low 10's (he has enough MPH for 9's but needs a better 60') for the past 4-5 years and this is with around 35lbs boost (he has run 40lbs before).... He did pop his share of head gaskets as you can imagine until he had his heads O-ringed by Mr. Weber in Ohio.... Could the normal Joe do this? I don't think so.... Orlando is one helluva tuner and he does not play around with pump gas (always has VP C16 117 octane race gas)..... The key to keeping a stock bottom end or even a non stock bottom end together is tuning! Little by little detonation kills these motors! It's almost like a firecraker when you think about it....... Everytime you detonate a motor you shorten the wick and before you know it........ KABOOM!!!!

 

[chevyII]

Most say 700fwh but a knowlegable sorce say about 575 is were you start holding your checks toghter and hope for the best

 

[Nojug]

In my opinion a stock bottom end will handle 600 with no problems as long as there is NO DETONATION. My dad has had his car for 3 years now and it had 70k when we got it did some bolt ons and have been running 25psi all the time on pump gas and xylene. I think that is on the edge on pump gas. The car ran 11.60's @115 at 3,800 pounds so it had to be in the 500hp range, now we are currently putting a cam and ported heads on the car with the stock 80k mile short block so I will let you know if it holds.

 

[turbot2496]

They used to say running anything below about 11.5 on the stock block and your on borrowed time. I would plan on beefing things up if your goals are to go faster than this somewhat reliably.

 

[GN87Mike]

I've heard the 11.50 story also as the point where going quicker with the stock block starts reducing reliability. You can hurt your motor as was said with detonation anytime but the quicker harder you go the more the hurt. No engine will stand up to detonation.

 

[NEARING]

Originally posted by turbot2496
They used to say running anything below about 11.5 on the stock block and your on borrowed time. I would plan on beefing things up if your goals are to go faster than this somewhat reliably.

Guess I know lots of people on borrowed time

 

[turbot2496]

Theres nothing wrong with living on borrowed time. LOL Just don't start crying when you standing there with your DS file that shows zero detonation and the crank is sitting out there on the track. Detonation causes the majority of problems but sometimes these motors just let go and at 11.50 and below this is where it usually starts according to the old timers LOL. They didn't come up with steel mains and girdles for nothing.

 

[gnx7]

My friend with a 3800lb GN (includes driver) has bone stock longblock with 98K miles or so on it. TE-64/50lbers/Translator with LT1 MAF, PTE FMIC, TH3" DP and dual 3" thru the exhaust, and has gone 11.50's@120.5mph with ok 60ft in the high 1.6 area. 26-30psi for over 4 years with this setup.

Tune tune tune as others have said and C16 is cheap insurance. I hope you have an EGT guage as well. Start out rich and then lean it out by turning down the fuel pressure.

In your sub 2700lb car low 10's shouldn't be a problem. High boost makes the stock crank flex on #2/#3 main caps and wears out the bearings prematurely or is trying to force the main caps out of their position and you get cap walk. Weight makes a huge difference on stress of parts.

-GNX7

 

[Vendor Defendor]

humm, guys i want to start building a new motor soon... i want to use the stock pistons, and crank... what 'percautions' should i take when building the motor.. (girdle? billet caps?) i am going to get my stock heads fully ported, and the intake to match, a nice intercooler and a good sized cam, big valves in the heads.. and i am going to use my PTE-44 for the time being, it seems to be a good street turbo.. maybe a bigger set of injectors... but what do you feel about these precautions?

thanks

 

[GRAYGHOST]

I just recently ran a 6.94 @ 99.1 in the 1/8th with a 101K competely stock motor. Heads have never been off, only thing I did was install 100# valve springs. I was running 30#'s with a TE45A..

My previous GN I ran 28#'s with a TE52 all the time. Stock block, 60K. I ran this car for over a year with this tune, 7.37, 7.42 @ 98 in the 1/8. Numerous street races that saw WOT up into OD, the best of which was a twin turbo 300Z that I ran from a 40 roll for 1/4 mile. Plus a day at the dyno in which I pulled about 10 times in 2 hours. Pushed 400 hp to the wheels and 525 fptq.

I have always kept 110 octane in the tank and tuned it just slightly "off edge". Obviously anything can happen, but I have always made sure everything from the fuel system, to electricals, to whatever else was in tip top!

Seems to me most of the people that put built motors in there cars have the problems, I have seen other cars with stock motors beat the $hit out of them with no cranks flying out....maybe a headgasket popping.