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how positive is my knock gauge

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fleebag

Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2007
Messages
382
i am finally "done" with my setup and am having some issues relating to knock. I have Julios dual nozzle kit, TT alky chip and running 20lbs for now.

but when i try to WOT blast, my Caspers knock immediatley goes to red. sometime the SM says retard, some times it doesnt. but always the casper gause goes to red so i get off the gas.

i have turned the alky knob all the way up and seemed to help but think i may be off some where else.

thinking of playing with the intial knob inside the pac but i dunno.

it seems the knock didnt start till i added the 3.5" dp and 66 turbo

here is my setup:
109 block, billet mains,wisecos, 208 roller, alum gn1's w/ 1.65 rckrs, 70 tbody,80lb njctrs,ta headers, turbntcts 66 4/2.5, 3.5 dp 46mm ex gate.

thanks in advance
 
i was always told by the time the gauge lights up its already GAME OVER..get a scan master!
 
yea i got the SMaster and sometime sit says retard sometimes it doesnt but the gauge still shows it.

i think it may be false knock, but not sure

thx
 
You cant fix false knock flooding the engine with alcohol.

I'd say your problem is the downpipe banging on something.

Leave you with this, real knock escalates.. 1..3..5..8.. 10 If it just goes to 12 then tapers down its false.

Always do your testing rolling into the throttle. I typically roll from 60 in D and let the boost climb up slowly watching for knock. octane problems making knock will show them selves only at higher boost levels.
 
thanks
i am going to relook at the downpipe again. i do know it was very very close. so close that i questioned why in the heck i bought a 3.5" that needed beating when my old 3" worked fine...

so lol i guess i need to turn the blue knob back to 6 ?

thanks again
 
thanks
i am going to relook at the downpipe again. i do know it was very very close. so close that i questioned why in the heck i bought a 3.5" that needed beating when my old 3" worked fine...

so lol i guess i need to turn the blue knob back to 6 ?

thanks again

Yup.. sometimes one small issue leads to other issues.
 
Razor said:
I typically roll from 60 in D and let the boost climb up slowly watching for knock.

100% gospel...I make sure the car is in second or third and just roll into it...dont' stab it and make it downshift.
 
Which fuels the question

........what is more reliable, the knock gauge or SM?? I've often wondered what is a more reliable source. I've read, to just focus on the scanmaster and never mine the knock gauge. But why? SM is wired into the aldl and the knock gauge is directly wired to the wire going to the ecm. Seems to be a more direct source to me :confused:
 
The Scanmaster just shows if the ECM has pulled any timing to reduce the knock or not. The Caspers gauge shows if the knock sensor detected anything.

Not sure why they'd tell you not to check the knock gauge unless it was because they're sensitive to the smallest amount of knock or you'll take your eyes off the road. I personally like the knock alarm much better. It only goes off at moderate knock plus I can listen for it, as opposed to looking for it.
 
The scanmaster if you have one should be fine in determining your problem.

Just have to go dig to see whats setting it off.
 
You cant fix false knock flooding the engine with alcohol.

I'd say your problem is the downpipe banging on something.

Leave you with this, real knock escalates.. 1..3..5..8.. 10 If it just goes to 12 then tapers down its false.

Always do your testing rolling into the throttle. I typically roll from 60 in D and let the boost climb up slowly watching for knock. octane problems making knock will show them selves only at higher boost levels.

Is that just the way the scanmaster is set up, to go 1,3,5,8 with knock?
This is interesting. My SM reads knock when I go wot from a stop, but like you say, at wot at 60, there is very little if any. I don't have any idea what would be creating the false knock though..
 
Doesnt the scanmaster update every 3 seconds? If so you could have 2.5 seconds of knock before any warning. In that case I would trust the knock gauge more than the SM.

On my car I found a loose tailpipe that was giving some knock on the upshifts
 
Is that just the way the scanmaster is set up, to go 1,3,5,8 with knock?
This is interesting. My SM reads knock when I go wot from a stop, but like you say, at wot at 60, there is very little if any. I don't have any idea what would be creating the false knock though..

No.. its that "real knock" escalates.

Think of a real life problem.. it always starts small then gets worse.

The knock sensor is simply a microphone listening for a specific band of frequencies.. the higher in intensity those frequencies.. the larger the number on your scanmaster. Engine detonation is within that band. As are other noises.. sometimes a broken engine mount, tailpipe banging(pinggggg), etc..

If from a roll it doesnt do it.. then you have false knock.. and need to spend time figuring it out. Something that cant be done through a keyboard. Could even be your transmission starting to let go.. anything that moves around.. if it hits something.. knock sensor will go off.
 
Doesnt the scanmaster update every 3 seconds? If so you could have 2.5 seconds of knock before any warning. In that case I would trust the knock gauge more than the SM.

On my car I found a loose tailpipe that was giving some knock on the upshifts

The SM is 1.5 per second. The power logger I believe is 18 per second
 
SM is better for knock than a knock gauge :confused:

Knock gauge is real time.

The scanmaster will record max knock and at what MPH it occurred. If your not looking at the knock gauge.. stuff happens and you didnt catch it.

The knock gauge ties into the raw signal. But only works when your looking at it :redface: And then we're dealing with how much each light is equal to knock wise? The scanmaster tells you X amount of degree's.

My own personal option.. run an Audible and use the scanmaster.. if audible goes off.. time to lift and address the situation.
 
The scanmaster will record max knock and at what MPH it occurred. If your not looking at the knock gauge.. stuff happens and you didnt catch it.

The knock gauge ties into the raw signal. But only works when your looking at it :redface: And then we're dealing with how much each light is equal to knock wise? The scanmaster tells you X amount of degree's.

My own personal option.. run an Audible and use the scanmaster.. if audible goes off.. time to lift and address the situation.

With data every 1.5 sec a lot can happen too.

I keep my eyes on the knock gauge while going down the track. I do like the audible option. ;)
 
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