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how to "hot wire" your fuel pump

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garyk1970

Electronics Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Nov 4, 2005
Messages
4,329
as my fellow Turbo Buick.com members know ive been working on automotive aftermarket and oem electronics and wiring for twenty years now,installing audio,security,video systems,etc,etc,and also when i moved closer to family and sold my retail store,i took a job offer working at a cadillac dealership, Learned alot there too.i work for myself again and service car dealerships.

ive had some questions and would like to show how i did my hotwire fuel pump uprade and to explain in simple terms how to while showing what to do , not to do and show some tricks of the trade along the way.

items needed;all these items below can be found at any good car stereo shop

21ft. 10 guage power cable(use automotive grade wire,its softer and has more copper strands and is easy to run around corners,etc)

water proof blade fuse holder-and a twenty amp blade fuse

misc assortment of quality connectors and 10 ga female spades(speaker connectors) needed for relay.

30 amp universal (spdt) relay

4ft 16 ga wire

6ft split loom tubing 3/8" or 1/2''

wire ties,tape,grounding screws(unpainted),wire grommets 3/4"

tools;

good crimpers,drill,test lamp-multimeter,misc hand tools.

there is a wrong way and a right way to crimp a connector,most people dont know these facts and believe the only good connection is to solder,NOT TRUE.heres a page to explain how to properly crimp a terminal so it will hold.scroll towards botom of page,these illustrations are out of my alarm book that i use.and some good relay info. http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/alarm.htm

start by connecting the fuse holder to one end of power cable.other end of fuse holder to alt on the output post(hooking to battery works well too,i believe coming off alt gives a less likely chance of voltage drop)

run power through firewall( i choose to run cable inside,can run cable through frame if you want,but later im also installing the relay inside)grommet that speedo cable comes through.i use a power antenna mast section(largest) cut off to a sharp point and push through from inside of gromment(ant mast is hollow)then push cable through mast from engine compartment,then go under dash and pull all twenty feet through.pull out ant mast and thats how to get a large cable through a grommet without damge to wire or grommet and keep grommet sealed not to allow water in. cover power cable in the engine compartment with split loom tubing to make it appear factory.also secure cable to plastic factory engine harness cover with ties.

run power cable from front to trunk area of car (drivers side).

i mounted my relay on the support on drivers side trunk behind wheel well.hook the power cable to pole #30 on relay.

ground a 18 ga lead to the same screw used to secure the relay to the support.then connect ground lead to pole#85. only two connections to go!

youll have to drill a hole near the factory grommet and install a grommet to route new cables for hot wire kit.

lay under car and youll see a three wire harness going to top of fuel tank.test and find fuel pump wire,on the TANK side of plug,cut wire- one side now goes to tank,other side goes toward factory relay.

connect 18 wire to oem relay side of fuel pump wire and run to newly installed relay and connect to pole #86.

connect large power cable (some left over from cable run from engine/alt)to pump side of oem wire and run to newly installed relay an connect to pole#87.

loom these wire as well,wrap with tape to seal out moisture,etc.

install fuse at alt and test, have fun....

also check the fuel pump ground,its located inside the trunk drivers side (under edge of trunk carpet)where harness come throught below the tail lamp,terminal was cracked and was giving me low voltage problems...

these are the only two pics i have, hope this helps...
 

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