how to install injectors
- Thread starter 6 beats 8
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
Hmmm, I'll take a shot.
Depressurize your fuel line or just wait for a few hours after the last time you drove the car. Take the cap off the fuel rail and press the little pin to remove any additional pressure while you wrap a rag around it to catch spraying fuel if there is any. KEEP SEVERAL SHOP RAGS AVAILABLE TO CATCH FUEL THAT WILL STILL BE IN THE RAIL!! Place a shop rag under the feed line and disconnect it. Loosen and remove the bolts that hold the fuel rail to the doghouse. Place a shop rag under the pressure regulator and disconnect it. Double check to be sure I didn't leave anything out.
Slowly pry the fuel rail from the intake. The only thing holding it is the seals in the injectors so pull up a little at a time one side then switch to the other side and so forth until it comes free. THERE WILL BE FUEL IN THE RAIL!! Use one of your shop rags to soak that up. Some injectors may stay in the intake while the others are in the rail. You will be removing them all anyway so it doesn't matter. You should remove each injector one at a time and replace into the rail with the new one using NEW seals. To remove the clip, press inward on the silver wire and wiggle the connector from the injector. BE SURE TO REMOVE BOTH OF THE OLD SEALS! You can use motor oil to lube the seals. After replacing all of the injectors into the rail, you now have six fuel injectors going into six holes on the intake. It will take a few tries to line them all up but once you are sure they are lined up, press down on the fuel rail to seat the injectors.
When they are all seated, replace the nuts and whatever else you took loose that held the fuel rail in. Then reconnect the regulator and feed line. (Told you the rags would come in handy) Double check everything and when you are sure everything is properly hooked up, turn the key to on BUT DON'T START THE CAR! This primes the rail so you can check for leaks. If you have no leaks, go ahead and start it after you have removed all of your shop rags. Congratulations!
Depressurize your fuel line or just wait for a few hours after the last time you drove the car. Take the cap off the fuel rail and press the little pin to remove any additional pressure while you wrap a rag around it to catch spraying fuel if there is any. KEEP SEVERAL SHOP RAGS AVAILABLE TO CATCH FUEL THAT WILL STILL BE IN THE RAIL!! Place a shop rag under the feed line and disconnect it. Loosen and remove the bolts that hold the fuel rail to the doghouse. Place a shop rag under the pressure regulator and disconnect it. Double check to be sure I didn't leave anything out.
Slowly pry the fuel rail from the intake. The only thing holding it is the seals in the injectors so pull up a little at a time one side then switch to the other side and so forth until it comes free. THERE WILL BE FUEL IN THE RAIL!! Use one of your shop rags to soak that up. Some injectors may stay in the intake while the others are in the rail. You will be removing them all anyway so it doesn't matter. You should remove each injector one at a time and replace into the rail with the new one using NEW seals. To remove the clip, press inward on the silver wire and wiggle the connector from the injector. BE SURE TO REMOVE BOTH OF THE OLD SEALS! You can use motor oil to lube the seals. After replacing all of the injectors into the rail, you now have six fuel injectors going into six holes on the intake. It will take a few tries to line them all up but once you are sure they are lined up, press down on the fuel rail to seat the injectors.
When they are all seated, replace the nuts and whatever else you took loose that held the fuel rail in. Then reconnect the regulator and feed line. (Told you the rags would come in handy) Double check everything and when you are sure everything is properly hooked up, turn the key to on BUT DON'T START THE CAR! This primes the rail so you can check for leaks. If you have no leaks, go ahead and start it after you have removed all of your shop rags. Congratulations!
turboman38
It costs money to go fast
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2001
- Messages
- 387
It's also easier if you remove the throttle cable bracket. Another way to depressurize the fuel rail is to disconnect the fuel pump plug(driver side rear by the gas tank. Usually the connect is hanging down) Start the car and let it run until it quits.
First...
Make sure you have all the right tools. There are a couple of bolts that take a deep socket (10mm, I think) and if you get to that point and don't have the socket, you have to put things on hold 'till you get it. Or worse, if the car is your driver, you have to put things back together. Also, be careful with the bolt on the passenger side that holds down the little hose bracket. The bolt might stick to the bracket and bend it when you try to loosen. Also, be very careful with the "O" rings. If you are not very careful, you will cut one or two, and have bad fuel leaks. Then you have to redo it all. (But at least by then you have all the right wrenches!) In addition to the above problems, I had another socket that BROKE right when I was using it to undo the coil bracket! Oh yeah, the electrical connector that holds the injector harness is hard to get to, and tricky to unplug. Other than that, it was an easy job!
Make sure you have all the right tools. There are a couple of bolts that take a deep socket (10mm, I think) and if you get to that point and don't have the socket, you have to put things on hold 'till you get it. Or worse, if the car is your driver, you have to put things back together. Also, be careful with the bolt on the passenger side that holds down the little hose bracket. The bolt might stick to the bracket and bend it when you try to loosen. Also, be very careful with the "O" rings. If you are not very careful, you will cut one or two, and have bad fuel leaks. Then you have to redo it all. (But at least by then you have all the right wrenches!) In addition to the above problems, I had another socket that BROKE right when I was using it to undo the coil bracket! Oh yeah, the electrical connector that holds the injector harness is hard to get to, and tricky to unplug. Other than that, it was an easy job!
