How to switch LC1 narrow band output to wideband signal

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Anyone here know how to switch the simulated narrow band output signal (yellow wire) in an Innovate LC-1 to wide band? I have all the stuff, it's just that the directions are very vague in my opinion.

 

[Nigel]

Install LM-1 programmer software on the laptop. You have to have the LC-1 plugged into the laptop and powered up then launch the LM-1 programmer. Goto the setup for the output, I referenced the default wideband output settings for number 2 output and made number 1 (yellow) the same. You will need a serial to USB adaptor unless your laptop has a serial port.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Great answer... Just spent 20 minutes looking for adapters and that's an option I hadn't gotten to yet. I went from serial to vga (yea, shows you how much I know lol) then to 2.5 stereo to usb, which I found, and then finally what you said. I'll try that. Thank you.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ok, finally found the adapter to allow their 49 year old program cable to fit into a computer from this century, and it doesn't work. I copied the wide band values from analog output two, into the analog output 1's data fields and nothing happens. I hit the program button and I hear the little ding, letting me know I hit the button, but nothing actually programs. It just sits there and laughs at the data field change attempts. Any other button or movement immediately switches the fields back to the factory default settings. It won't switch over

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Maybe I really do need Prozac...

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ok, while throwing away the packaging for the cable, a cd came out. "driver install cd" I'm like "what? drivers for a stupid cable?" Long story short, the output reprogram was written in stone. I can now view AND log wide band the RIGHT way, as per Innovate. Thanks again man. I appreciate it.

 

[Pronto]

Maybe I really do need Prozac...

No, you need to throw that wide band in the trash and get a brand that is easy and reliable.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

I am actually. Gotta wait till next month though. This wideband cable is too short to mount in a cooler spot, but for a few minutes, I do get good readings. Enough to log What brand would you go with? AEM?

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Dont trust those readings. Put the Wb in the trash and walk away. You will thank us later.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

There's a lot to be said about keeping things simple with these cars.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Dont trust those readings. Put the Wb in the trash and walk away. You will thank us later.

Huh? That's just the exact opposite of what everyone has been telling me on here. Everyone says that a wideband is an absolute essential item. How do you tune without it? How do you monitor how much fuel's going in? Tuning for no knock is still tuning blind, don't you think? And vortex buicks says egt's are pretty much worthless. So what do you do?

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

There's a lot to be said about keeping things simple with these cars.

I do love simple. For real. But don't you leave a boat load of hp on the table when your tune is off?

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

My car runs 6.90 to 7.3 in the 1/8th...depending on what class I'm running. I tune with nothing more than Erics 5.7 chip...a translator...PL...and NB.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Im speaking with Pronto. Hence, "You'll thanks us later."
AEM or PLX will be an easy install and you'll never have to worry about it again. I think I already replied to another thread you made and told you to ditch it to begin with. Im talking from experience and just want to help a brother out.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

And no you dont have to have a WB. Gone are the days of people actually tuning with NB and plugs, but it still works. When you have 10k in a motor, its a good idea to have a nice reliable WB. But, im old school and check NB and plugs to make sure the reading all match. It took me 2 months to just toss the LC1 and get a PLX, but after I did, it was the best investment I ever made at the time because I could reliably tune my expensive motor Finally! Do yourself a favor and buy a better WB. LC1 is

 

[Pronto]

Yes indeed. Some people can get that Innovate product to work but I don't know how. I tried everything I could. Grounding it in different locations, putting the controller indifferent spots, went to the website for help, sent it back to be checked all for nothing. It would work for a second or 2 then go wacky. And that stupid computer program didn't help either. I sold it on ebay. Got a NGK Afx wideband and never looked back. It's super easy to install and calibrate. 3 wires. Power, ground and 5v signal. I've heard good things about the AEM and PLX as well.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Roger that. Will toss this thing. And Scooby. How do you get away with such rich mixtures? I'm spewing black carbon all over my garage, and fouling everything up. Getting rich knock too. My car can't run this rich. I'm DESTROYING my fuel too. I'm getting like 8 miles to the gallon lol.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

I throw-ed my LC1 in the trash can and got a AEM on one car and the PLX on the other and I am a happy camper now , they work so easy a caveman can make them work .

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

A caveman can make them work? So what are you saying? lol. J/k. I actually figured the Innovate out, but nonetheless it keeps erroring out any way so it's pretty much useless anyway. I need a sensor that has like 4' of cable available so that I can re-mount it in the test pipe, so that the turbo doesn't burn it up.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

Both of my sensors came with long cords to mount it where you want to , both of mine are mounted right after the turbo on the DP , I tried the PLX down at the dump pipe and up at the DP close to the turbo and it made no difference in how it worked , My engine settings rely off the WB setting to make the SD2 work on fuel mixture .The PLX I caught it on sale on Ebay for $130 .00 and it is plug and play to me it was easier to hook up than the AEM but not much and the AEM was $200.00