You can type here any text you want

Hurst Shifter Install with Pics

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

GNDriven

Active Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2004
Messages
648
Am I even remotely installing this correct?

I am a novice garage enthusiast. I am installing a Hurst Shifter into my GN. I have recently installed the TH400 seen in the pics below. I am eyeballing everything and trying to install everything the best that I can. I do not help with this, so can anyone please let me know if this is looking right?

In my efforts to mate the stock shifter plate to the Hurst shifter plate, I cut the center hump out and both of the back sides. I eyeballed the height the shifter needs to be in-order to use the console.

I cut the center console to get the shifter to move freely. I had to decide on cutting it and being able to return it to stock form. I did not see anyway around cutting the middle out. Right now the shifter looks to be sitting in a good spot. I can go through all of the gears. I have it zip tied down right now.

I installed the shifter cable. I had to elongate the holes in the cable bracket, for my pan holes are very close to the pan. The linkage hooked up fine. I did not have to bend the bracket to work. I would like to use the shifter bar that allows for reverse lights and neutral start, but I do not see a way to do that with what I have now. I am not a machinist so fabrication is guesswork for me. I plan on modifying a stock console top to work, or I might order one from TR Customs.

Any suggestions?

IMG_0384.jpg
IMG_0385.jpg


IMG_0389.jpg
IMG_0392.jpg




IMG_0397.jpg
IMG_0402.jpg
 
I'm not a fan of the Quater Stick. The front lever feels flimsy. I had one in my car and now I have probably the best shifter for a T400.......Cheetah Shifter. But anyway........

Are you re-using the rod linkage assembly that attaches to the column? If not, follow below.

For the neutral safety switch. The shifter should've cam with some type of the switch. Take the little wire of the starter, extend it and to attach it to one side of the switch. Take a wire from the other switch terminal and attach it to the starter. Now you have your neutral safety switch.

Also, you are going to have to keep the collar on the steering wheel in the park position. I took a ziptie and tied the linkage tab in the up position in the engine compartment.

I wasn't too concerned about the reverse lights and never pursued it to get them to work

If you hooking the the column linkage up, disregard the above.

Also, I would route the shifter cable to exit the rear of the shifter to eliminate the "S" it makes under the car.

P1050025.jpg


Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
The cheetah is from what I read a darn good one. I read several threads on installing it, and concluded that it was more involved than the more common quater stick install. Being this my first trans shifter install I choose the Hurst.

I would like to hook up the column linkage, but it is not a must have. I just did not see a way to attach it. So I am using the trans attachment that cam with the shifter. As far as the quarter stick install on gnttype.org. I wanted my shifter to sit lower in the console. So I cut out the middle hump of the stock plate. I plan on using the same method of a thin peice of alunimum to place inbetween the stock plate and shifte plate, because there are small ridges that run along the top of the stock plate. If you place the Hurst plate flat against the stock plate it hits those raised ridges. So I need to raise it a slight amount to clear those.

Is there a problem using the stock exit hole? It seemed fine, the cable is not in a bind, and it bends slightly as it goes out the stock cable hole. It proceeds to make 1 loop and is in a good straight shot to the bracket. I will post more pics tonight. I can drill a new exit hole if needed.

If someone can post a pic of how they attach to the trans I would appreciate it. I say good pics of the inside the car, but no pics of how it attaches to the trans. Using the stock linkage or not. Thanks
 
Scott, snapped a couple of pics today. I removed the console, installed the shifter on a 1/4" aluminum plate to raise it a bit. Then I cut out the ash tray and anything else in the way so there was just a big open rectangle in the console and put it back on. There are only 2 bolts holding it down (the 2 that are in the console part), it seems sturdy enough, although I would do more bracing/bolting down up front if I had to do it over. Then I made a template with cutouts for the shifter and used 3/16" ABS plastic for a cover plate. Piedmont Plastics can supply the ABS.
You can see the bracket on the side of the tranny is a combination of the stock unit and the one from Hurst welded together. This allows the use of the coluum lock. You will run into trouble if you do not use the coluum lock with the GM ECM. It will always think you are in park. You can now see why in the new product request section I would like one of the vendors to design a bracket for applications like this, the tranny bracket Hurst & B&M supply do not work as designed. I did have to drill another hole in the floor for this shifter cable, too much strain on mine to run it through the factory hole.
The Cheetah IMO is the best aftermarket shifter, to bad they don't make one for the 2004R.
Mike
86 GN
 

Attachments

  • DSC02086.jpg
    DSC02086.jpg
    77.4 KB · Views: 630
  • DSC02091.jpg
    DSC02091.jpg
    54.1 KB · Views: 654
  • DSC02089.jpg
    DSC02089.jpg
    46.5 KB · Views: 638
Thanks for the pics...

I guess I went a little too far on the stock shifter plate, and not far enough on the column linkage.

I am going to work on it some tonight and see what I can come up with.
 
More pics for those that are interested...
May help with someone thinking about installing an performance shifter.

I am in the process of making an small plate that mates the stock shifter plate to the Hurst shifter. Also I need to cutt the top console plate to fit around the shifter.

IMG_0412.jpg
IMG_0410.jpg


IMG_0411.jpg
IMG_0406.jpg


IMG_0408.jpg
 
You can also tack weld the stock transmission lever to the outside of the Hurst lever to retain the factory switches. I did that on both my Hurst and Winters shifters.
 
thanks guy for nice pics

I plan to install a b & m soon

if that snow finish to melt

claude
 
OK I am not going to weld the Hurst lever arm to the stock linkage arm right now. So I placed the stock linkage arm in the park position and secured it.

What problems are there with the ECM in doing it this way?

Thanks
 
The only gear sensitive part the ecm would need would be the psi switches in the VB for l/u but you have the 400 so no worries on that one.
Other thing that comes to mind is the back up lights, I think you have a switch on that shifter for that though.
ECM just needs to know ..Beat Black Whipple Cobra,Beat Black Z28, Beat Big Red..:cool:
 
I wanted to update this install thread so others searching this can see some good pics.

Some have no idea of what the stock shifter looks like, so this may be helpful to those thinking of doing a shifter swap. Here are some additional pics of my Hurst install.

IMG_0255.jpg
IMG_0248.jpg



IMG_0253.jpg
Here is where I had to cut the console top. I used a cutoff wheel. It worked well. I hate that I had to cut so much out, but there was really no other way I found.

IMG_0423-1.jpg
 
Back
Top