Drop vs stock spindle difference

greeneyegi

Well-Known Member
Purchased a set of stock spindles and took apart my setup but the holes are different space then each other?
Am I crazy? Or am I missing something?
My drop spindles were cut to add the bracket to put on the pbr calipers but the holes are spaced different.
I was going to swap back to staock spindles and use my calipers then put on umi a arms and coil overs is the goal
Attached are pics side to side
Only thing I could think is they are not stock spindles maybe?
 

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Im reading the article and I guess the spindle and brakes were pre assembled before installation. It doesnt say if they are drop spindles or not. Maybe I was fed wrong information and these are not drop spindles?
Ill attach the article...
 

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Purchased a set of stock spindles and took apart my setup but the holes are different space then each other?
Am I crazy? Or am I missing something?
My drop spindles were cut to add the bracket to put on the pbr calipers but the holes are spaced different.
I was going to swap back to staock spindles and use my calipers then put on umi a arms and coil overs is the goal
Attached are pics side to side
Only thing I could think is they are not stock spindles maybe?

B or F Body spindles?

 
I believe he mentioned having B-body spindles in one of his posts.
My understanding is B-body spindles are taller giving a better camber curve, but require a special upper A-arm to work. I may be wrong.
One of his goals is to maintain the original Bear brake system installed in this magazine.
yes i believe these are a body spindles
i was trying to go back to the stock height from comments of the drip spindles not working as well
i thought they would need the cut but then bolt on to the baer bracket but the holes are different. i'm going to try to cut these and make another bracket.
any ideas if i'm wasting my time and just stick with the a body ones?
 
It looks like you have standard B-body spindles and not 2” drop spindles.
The distance from the spindle to the lower ball joint is not very much on yours.

They look like this standard replacement spindle.
531A3288-5C7B-4F29-9957-75706B44D9A1.jpeg


And not the 2” drop spindle.
57714E8F-D234-46B2-8474-CABD887A4C47.jpeg


Since you want to keep the brakes, I would use your old spindles with the matching Hotchkis upper A-arms (new bushings if needed) and the new coilover lower A-arms.
I believe this would be the best setup going to coilovers while keeping the Bear brakes.
I think it’s equivalent to stock spindles with 1” taller upper ball joints, providing better cornering than a completely stock setup.
Turbo6inKY may have some insight on this as well.
You can PM him if he doesn’t see this. He’s a great guy and very helpful.
 
anybody have the instruction for the mod to fit newer brakes?
i'm going to make another bracket
but i think there's a direction on the cut on the spindle bracket
 
anybody have the instruction for the mod to fit newer brakes?
i'm going to make another bracket
but i think there's a direction on the cut on the spindle bracket

Are you putting the Bear brakes on the factory spindles?
If so, I would call Bear brakes to see if they have a template.
The UMI C5/ C6 setup comes with caliper mounting brackets to use as a temple to cut the factory spindles.

This is for wilwood’s C5/ C6 brake upgrade.
I imagine trimming the ears off the factory spindle for the Bear brakes would be similar. As far as the bracket, you would have to assemble everything and measure from the caliper to the factory spindle and go from there.

FYI. The UMI kit uses metric hardware. The top hole has to be drilled and tapped deeper. The bottom hole is ok.


B1419AAE-DEF6-4202-80BA-6416A20E29DA.jpg
 
FYI: Jegs "house brand" 2" drop spindles don't fit with GNXcopy(goodmark)wheels. The inner rolled edge of the rim hits the ball joint. I needed a 1/4" spacer to barely make the wheels fit....
TIMINATOR
20230501_141222.jpg
 
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