I got no boost!!

[1QUICK85]

Everything was working before all this...so I kind of just eliminated that fact that coil, module, or whatever could be bad. I am thinking it is something I did which I am almost sure it is. My car ran like a top before. I changed plugs, wires, down pipe, INTAKE, TURBO, INJECTORS, exhaust elbow, TB, 87 ecm, custom chip. I has no cat, I got a ATR race pipe in place of it. I am going to try uping the fuel more? I havent had time to work on it at all. I dont think I will even get to work on it that much this weekend either. SUCKS.

I dont know a lot about dignoising cars probs. But, WFO how will the coil pack, module go out just like that.......? Do you guys think this is anyway connected to the fuel system. I do remember the chip burner saying how he was going to add a little more fuel to compensate for the amount of air I would be pushing..........because of the V2 pushing 230cfm per runner.......not sure what else to tell you guys so you can better direct me in the right direction. Can I test the coil pack and module to make sure they are working good??? I am sure I can, just dont know......thanks guys.............I appreciate every comment........even if you say I am a dumbass.......... Nick

 

[6SENSE]

Hey dumbass!! Just kiddin' (you said it) . You can test coil resistance. Use a ohm-meter, multi-meter/tester set for reading ohms, and test resistance across the towers. Good reading would be 11k-13k. This tests the coil pack, not the module. Only way I know of testing the module is with the tester that Casper's makes which tests module and coilpack. If one doesnt have that tester, its usually a process of elimination. Swapping out for a known good part helps with the process too.

 

[1QUICK85]

Just turn the key "on"??? and take the plug wires off??

Thanks,

Dumbass

 

[cool 84]

If you could get that scantool to work, you would know once and for all what's going on. It will lay to rest if it's a fuel concern or if you should look elsewhere. You changed plug wires, any not on all the way or touching the uppipe or downpipe? Plugs gapped too wide? Check alternator voltage with the car running.

Another thing I find weird is you can't get any boost doing a brake stand. With the little TA49 you should easily get boost on the brakes even with a stock convertor.

Again, with a full readout of what's going on at the moment the car stumbles will probably tell you what's going on. What exactly is the problem with the scan tool? Are you using Direct Scan by any chance?

 

[6SENSE]

Originally posted by cool 84
If you could get that scantool to work................

Okay, were not going to mention the word dumbass anymore . No, really though, you NEEEED a scantool. I must have missed that part. This thread has taken so many twists and turns with your problem jumping from one possibility to another. You DEFINATELY had more than just one problem going on here. Youve fixed some and are hopefully getting down to the last of them. You need to know if your car is just plain out running pig rich or what (SCANTOOL). Make sure your plug wires are [tight] on the CORRECT plugs.....and then check them again . The car will run and idle decent with a couple wires switched up, but you will have problems when you get on it. I was going to mention to check your plug gap, but cool84 already did, plus I saw in a earlier post that you gapped them at .035, which is fine. Not questioning you, but I have worked on a guys GN before which was running crappy. He had recently changed plugs and told me he gapped them at .035. I tested everything I could on the car and came up with nothing.....until I pulled a plug out to check gap. It was over .060 . Also, I have never owned a set of MSD wires, so I dont know much about them, other than that MSD makes some good stuff. I do know that I had a set of Autolite wires before that were supposed to be "performance" , but only one problem. They could not take the heat on the passenger side of a hotair car. The pasenger side wires were fried from the inside out . They looked fine, but were soft and kind of crunchy when I squeezed them. Driver's side was fine. Open your hood with the car running at night in the dark too, and see if you see any arcing from the wires.
Just a few ideas. You'll get it together sooner or later. Its just a big learning experience. Mandatory for TR owners to go through this type of crap . As soon as you start modding, youve ruined the car .

 

[1QUICK85]

Tommorrow afternoon is GN work time........LOL.

I will check my plug wires 2 times and make sure they are alright......the wires I got are for the 86/87's!!! So, I had to run the plug wires over the passenger valve cover and under the downpipe to get them to fit..............not the best way to do it!! So now seeing your post on the outside of the plug wires being fine and the inside being trashed.....I am going to check that. The only thing protecting the wires is (hope you get what I am about to say, bad a descriptions) the cloth like material that was on my EGR piping that ran from the EGR to the back of the intake were it hooked up. My EGR is deleted on the new setup!............so I will check that stuff out.

I am going to call turbolink or accelerated products on Friday afternoon and ask them what might be going on with my tlink.........I think I may need to redownload it or something........the computer doesnt lock up the program is messed up............it will show me the right data and then the damn thing shows the car running at 3000 rpm's and it is at 800 really. So, yes I know I need a scantool........I will get that figured out. Then I can post some read outs of what is going on when she stumbles...........like ya said......LOL.......thanks guys, I appreciate it.......Nick

 

[cool 84]

One last bit of advise, don't be afraid to bleed. These cars love blood. I've chased down problems for weeks at a time and as soon as I slip and cut myself and bleed all over the car it usually works. I bet you didn't hurt yourself when you installed the intake. That's the problem.

 

[1QUICK85]

NO not when I did the intake..............but the other day I used a blade off of my hacksaw and spent almost two hours trimming the end off of the downpipe were the race pipe would connect to it.................talk about not having the tools for the job.............holy ****................I got 2 blisters on each hand......and then one broke open...........nuff said........ bleed all over it.........that is it I am cutting off a arm and she should run great...... later Nick

 

[1QUICK85]

Got some numbers!

I dont know why but my turbolink worked perfect this morning. So, here goes it........Not sure what to put up for numbers. Oh wait go get a beverage.........I got a long one here for ya...I just hope it has the right info

Almost every frame is saying RICH. I had maybe 3 frames say lean. One frame with knock. Turn down the fuel pressure. I dont see any black smoke. I did almost get to 10# of boost, but it felt really weak. Here is a frame when I am idling:

RPM's ..........................2100
MPH ............................0
MAT deg .......................71.6
coolant ...........................118
MAF...............................17
INT...............................128
LV8..............................44#
Ret................................0.0deg
O2..........................785mv
TPS............................ .59V
LOOP.................. OPEN
Volts..................13.8
O2xcnt..........................0
mixture........................rich
ESC.................................1
AND THE P/N light is on(park/neutral)right?


Ok and here is were I am getting knock...I ONLY GOT KNOCK ONCE THE WHOLE TIME.....I just recorded like a one minute run maybe around a few blocks........so I am assuming the knock is coming when I am getting the stumbling OR IS THIS JUST FROM THE TRANNY SHIFTING??:

RET...........................1.1DEG
INT..........................128
LV8...............................255#
TPS..................................4.08V
O2.........................863mV
BLM.................................130
MAT......................71.6
RPM...............................4900
SPEED...............................32
MAF..............................255
VOLTS................................13.7
ESC................................1
MIXTURE...........................RICH
O2Xcnt................................0
LOOP...............OPEN
COOLANT..........................139
P/N LIGHT LIT UP


Here is the reading once in closed loop:

RPM................1700
SPEED................35
TPS..................... .61V
LV8.....................53#
RET........................0
MAF........................16
COOLANT ...............153
MAT..............71.6
LOOP....................CLOSED
MIXTURE.....................................LEAN
02XCNT.................................4
VOLTS.................14.0
ESC..........................1
BLM...........................120
P/N AND 3rd LIGTHS ARE LITE UP


Is there a way to post or email you guys the whole little run I did around the blocks? I dont know if this is the info you guys need.....Or if I am missing something.....let me know what to look for in the info and then I can post that. The MALF light was on the whole time for the code 23..........MAT CIRCUIT OPEN.

I got by TB cooly lines welded off, by my buddy and now one of them has a pin hole leak in it and it is spraying all over my up pipe..............dammit it..........i even JB welded it last night and let it sit...............I will have to fix that before I got out agian.

OH ya I did chech the plug wires again...........I know I gapped them at a loose .35. Do these V2 piping make alot of noise.........I mean there is like a whistling coming from under the hood.....or is it just the turbo is before the trottle body now and making a wierd noise? I know I am close because I almost got 10# of boost and she drives real nice until the load is really put on.....but still no boost on brake stand........and no tire spin either.......WTF. The turbo is really loud too........louder then the stocker...........well not sure what else to tell ya guys........I wish one of ya live next door........LOL.................I was at the track thursday night with my '88 trans am and ran a 17.353.........ouch.....damn 305 with loud lifters........but I saw like 6 or 7 '87 Turbo regals.........mostly GN's.....but no hot air guys.......hummmmmmmmmm........I cant wait to get her running good....OK now I am just ranting.............sorry for the long reading assignment.........later... Nick.......thanks much.

 

[1QUICK85]

Oh ya one more thing.......just ran out and tried a brakestand in the driveway and no matter what gear I am in............the damn engine wont rev past 2000 RPM's, except for neutral and park...LOL. I was at about 1900 on the autometer tach I got. WTF did I do? That just seems really $%^#%^^$$%%$$ weird!! Later guys.........thanks ......Nick

 

[1QUICK85]

Ok.........So I was just out with the trans am and noticed when I do a brakestand it that........that it revs no more then 2000 RPM's also. Funny thing.........I think the damn trans am has posi..........WTF..........that ***** 305 gets posi......but not my GN Oh well so that must be how it works........2000 rpms when brakestanding..........why is that? Whatcha guys think of my Turbolink numbers...........? To much fuel? Thanks Nick

 

[shaun mccall]

no boost

I dont think you know what you are doing you should call the jay himself I got the # you are going to blow your engine if you have no success with this project give up get an 86-87and do a easy swap

 

[1QUICK85]

Well I think you hit it on the head there........YA I DONT KNOW WHAT I AM DOING, but I am trying to learn and I not about to give up on something. I am not expert mechanic that is why I am here asking questions. As I can see you answered my question TOTALLY, THANKS.

 

[cool 84]

I saw a couple weird things. Your TPS voltage is too high at idle and too low at WOT. The other is you say you're barely hitting 10psi and the car is running like crap. But the MAF is pegged. I'm still leaning toward massive boost leak. Are you sure one of your silicone hoses don't have a tear in them or a bolt missing from the compressor housing?

How loud exactly is the turbo? If you have the stock airbox, put it on and see if it's still loud.

 

[1QUICK85]

The fuel pressure is set at 30psi with line on...??and the car seemed to act better..........just sputtered out once when it shifted. I dont have any new reading yet. I need to adjust the TPS for sure. I will have to tinker with it some more tommorrow night maybe. I will check my silcone hoses again and the compressor bolts........thanks Nick

 

[shaun mccall]

boost problem

you should call the man himsef jay?

 

[1QUICK85]

It has nothing to do with the kit or with jay............just the fact that there is some much stuff that I changed out that there are so many possiblities of problems. I have posted my probs......and as you can see my problems have gotten less and less, thanks to all the great help I am getting. I am now pretty sure that once I adjust the TPS and get the fuel pressure right on..........the only problem I should have after that is the fact that my wastegate rod is out of threads......... ..........I am feeling pretty good about the car right now.......when I took it out today.......it had about 9# of boost and she was going right up to that and shifting to the next gear and so on.........My rod needs to be shorter or as someone mentioned I may have a boost leak somewhere. I only sputtered once and it was for a second and then it took right off agian. Didnt feel that strong as it was only 9lbs. of boost. So right now I am just going to have to wait until Friday afternoon to work on it. School and work. I will keep ya guys posted. Thanks Nick

 

[BuickTV6]

Dude don't worry bout the turbo noise, thats pretty normal with these kits. I run a Ta33 with a 8" K&N filter. When revving it inpark you can hear this roaring sound, sounds pretty loud. At first I thought it was a leak, but its just the turbo spooling and hitting the throttle blade when closed. Also when driving normally under no boost it does the same thing when it hits like 10 vac on the autometer guage. Makes this roaring sound. Because of the TB being relocated it sucks a lot of air through the compresor side. With a big filter its loud. I got peolpe looking at me all weird when im driving next to them. I dont know if this isn't related, but when I first installed the kit, i had the same problem almost. I couldnt hit over 5 psi boost with the wg almost completely shut. But my car didnt stumble, it would climb slowly to 5 psi and stay there. Off the line it sucked, but when it hit 5 psi, it pulled stronger then my car at 10 psi on the hotair system. So What I did was run a line straight from the actuator to the port on the compressor side of the turbo, eliminating the wg solonoid being hooked up. I just ran a vac line to one of the ports on the solonoid, and capped the other. With the rod almost all the way in, i automatically pulled 21 psi boost with no knock, and the car pulled like a bat outta hell in first gear and a healthy chirp into 2nd. I am now running about 17 psi boost with the lines setup that way, im not sure if its right or not, but it works, I get no knock, and the car hasen't blown up yet When I was racing a 2002 camaro I was pulling on it really good, about 2 car lengths and i hear a big bang and my engine stalled! , and i coasted to a stop. I started it back, it actually ran pretty good, but would stall after 5 secs of running. When revving i heard hat roar but it was a lot louder. Turns out I blew off the the turbo pipe that connects to the intercooler cause someone forgot to tighten it down enough!(stupid me)so the car ran but would stall cause it didnt't have a maf reading. Searched for idle too. I had a bad uppipe leak, and after fixing that, I could run better boost with the wg rod not so closed. To me, it sounds like you have a few issues to deal with as cool84 and others have said, Cause even when i ran 1 psi boost (lol) on the car when i first installed the kit, it didnt sputter at all. it would rev and move just very slowly! I hope that helps you somewhat!

 

[1QUICK85]

I will try using the rod without the solinoid thing. I actually have my fuel pressure set at about 34lbs. with the line on now. And I have no stubble............so I was to rich. LOL............It does stumble once I let off the pedal though.after a WOT run....for like a second.....but I am thinking that is all the boost hitting the trottle blade. I am ordering a new up pipe as it has a nice leak in it now............I dont know why? It was fine before I took it off the car. I am going to get a ATR up pipe. I also have to go and get a 2in flexiable intercooler hose to put on were the turbo and intercooler piping connects........the one I got now is hard and it doesnt like to bend freely.......so it is a little callapsed....thats not good either......!!!! You out ran a 2002 camaro............damn......I am not sure what to expect but I hope I can do the same. I will have to try that today.......thanks guys I am very close I can feel it. Nick

 

[6SENSE]

Just wondering, why are you setting your FP with the line on?? Set the static FP (with line off) to about 43psi, especially until you get things squared away. Intercooled cars like a little higher FP anyway. Not that 43 is a high setting at all, its stock for a 237 regulator, and what most chip makers have in mind when they burn their chips. 40-45 is a good range, so 43 is a good starting point .

Also, again, you mentioned your up-pipe leaking. If there is any leak at all from that pipe (or anything before the turbo for that matter) you will have problems with performance and boost pressure.