I just want to burn it to the ground.

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Why does everyone say the ls mafs are the end all be all of mafs? They say they are light years ahead of our stockers in terms of durability and longevity? I see these LS mafs go out ALL the time. My stock maf's 27 years old and still works. I don't get it.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Why does everyone say the ls mafs are the end all be all of mafs? They say they are light years ahead of our stockers in terms of durability and longevity? I see these LS mafs go out ALL the time. My stock maf's 27 years old and still works. I don't get it.

Because if you are in the middle of nowhere, just about any autoparts store would have it in stock and just about any scrap yard has them. So if your car is NOT a garage queen and your not a 2%r you shouldn't have a hard time getting a replacement if it fails while stretching its legs.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

OK so this bitch is pissing me off.
the ls1 maf that was on the car reads from 13 to 24 So naturally like most of us i went out to my other complete and working car and removed it's working maf and installed it onto this POS and guess what? it reads between 10 and 18.
So like a good buick owner i have a spare ECM SO i replaced the ECM and the maf is still reading high but only 10 this time. if i hit the gas the reading does go up.
I did unplug the maf while the car was idling and it did change the idle.
what to do next besides running a wire from the maf straight to the ECM?

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

 

[jasjamz]

Is the sensor getting a good ground and the 5 volts to power it?

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Is the sensor getting a good ground and the 5 volts to power it?

I haven't checked that yet but I was told that the MAF gets the full 12 volts not 5.

 

[buddy]

You have a code 34!!! Why didn't you mention that in the beginning! That's the maf!

 

[jasjamz]

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/code_34.htm
12 volts....Im not aware of any Sensor on our car that gets 12 volts. 4-6 for most. 5 avg..

 

[pacecarta]

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/code_34.htm
12 volts....Im not aware of any Sensor on our car that gets 12 volts. 4-6 for most. 5 avg..

maf gets power direct from fuse block ECM/IGN fuse ... 12v

his 34 code was most likely because he unplugged the maf and ran the car as he stated in his last post

david, thought we already went over checking the wires for voltage and ground , you may just have to run wire direct from pin B at maf (the gray signal) to pin b6 at ECM
snip the wires at both ends and run a new one

 

[jasjamz]

Thanks Pacecarta!
Get to work David!

 

[pacecarta]

just noticed looking at the vid your battery voltage jumps around a lot , its possible you have a bad alternator throwing out AC voltage signals and the ecu wont like that

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

going to try and get to this tonight
1- check the wires.
2- swap the alt since i have a spare, what a surprise.

Paul make sure that your cell is fully charged.

 

[Pronto]

just noticed looking at the vid your battery voltage jumps around a lot , its possible you have a bad alternator throwing out AC voltage signals and the ecu wont like that

I had that happen and it messed up the Translator. The alternator was leaking AC. My lights were pulsing. Changed out the alternator and solved that issue. After that I would get occasional code 34s. Replaced the MAF several times and finally the Translator. Haven't had that issue since changing the Translator.

 

[pacecarta]

he tried the stock so no translator involved and still wasnt right
leaning toward the alternator right now

 

[87geeinn]

Read the entire thread all over again but maybe I'm missing something. Why not just reset the ECM and try to get the IAC numbers down a few? All this changing and swapping of MAFs and such but no mention of resetting the ECM. The car doesn't seem to be fully warm either at 152*, in which case the car hasn't settled down yet.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Read the entire thread all over again but maybe I'm missing something. Why not just reset the ECM and try to get the IAC numbers down a few? All this changing and swapping of MAFs and such but no mention of resetting the ECM. The car doesn't seem to be fully warm either at 152*, in which case the car hasn't settled down yet.

Good suggestions.

1- The ECM was reset when the problem was first discovered.

2- During idle This stinking car barely kicks the fans on in cold weather. -- BBC radiator and 160 stat are to blame.-- when driving it gets worse.

3- Then replaced the LS1 MAF with a known good OE one.

4- Then replaced the ECM with another ECM.

As far as the other sensors and controls I don't pay them any attention unless they are causing driveability issues.
I was/am tunnelvisioned out on 875-925 rpm and high MAF readings.

This is most likely not the best way to go about it. Probably why I need so much help getting it sorted out.

 

[supr91tt]

Sounds like I'm thankful for the MAFT-Pro and speed density, no more MAF


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[87geeinn]

Which car is this in your signature? If it is the car with 120lb injectors, I'm pretty sure Eric sets those particular chips to idle a little higher anyways.

1) Are the switches in your Translator set correctly?
2) What happens when you disconnect the volt booster?...the one wire alternator cable?
3) Have you closed the throttle plate (and readjusted the TPS) to bring the IACs down?

I don't think you really have any problem IMHO and I don't suspect anything is wrong with your MAF. Sounds to me like your AF reading is correct and the high reading is just a natural byproduct of the higher idle. I bet if you go out and flog the car and get it nice and warm it will settle down a bit at idle.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Which car is this in your signature? If it is the car with 120lb injectors, I'm pretty sure Eric sets those particular chips to idle a little higher anyways.

1) Are the switches in your Translator set correctly?
2) What happens when you disconnect the volt booster?...the one wire alternator cable?
3) Have you closed the throttle plate (and readjusted the TPS) to bring the IACs down?

I don't think you really have any problem IMHO and I don't suspect anything is wrong with your MAF. Sounds to me like your AF reading is correct and the high reading is just a natural byproduct of the higher idle. I bet if you go out and flog the car and get it nice and warm it will settle down a bit at idle.

Yes The problem car is the chevelle in the signature.

When I first installed the translator and LS1 MAF. The MAF numbers were normal-- between 4 and 5 with an occasional 6 blip.

All of a sudden it started hovering around the 20s, that's a big change.

The translator settings have not been touched since it was installed.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Swapped out the alt.
It still sucks ass.