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NOTSOFAST

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2001
Messages
432
I know it's not a GN, but I need ya'lls help. I have 1970 Buick Skylark with a 350 4 barrel, 2 days ago it stopped turning on. Just went kaput ! I have checked everything and found that the ignition coil does not spark at all. Not by itself or to the rotor cap. I even pulled the #1 plug and no fire, the coil is get power as I tested it with a test light. I'm at a loss n don't know what else to check. What say you fellow members with more knowledge than I, what am I missing ? My stepson stated that he had washed the engine 3days ago, I asked him if the motor was hot when he sprayed it , he says it wasn't .
 
My guess is that it's getting power (spark) with the key in the on position? Have you checked to see it it's getting power in the "start" position? Check and see if it is first. If it's not then you need an ignition switch. If it is then most likelly the wire to the coil is bad or the coil is bad.;)
 
The original points type distributors,are very susceptible to moisture,in the cap,and on the points.
 
coil is getting power with ignition on and during cranking, still no spark or start.
 
To make sure no water in distributor cap, take a drop light and place in between cap and distributor and leave on for about 5 minutes. This will dry out any residual water.
 
if your getting power to the coil but no spark comming out from your coil to the distributer then its your coil is it new or how old .and its been getting washed the way you stated whitout being coverd when they go they just go just going from my own .hope this helps .
 
If you're using a test light to see if the coil's getting power and you try to crank it, does the test light flash while the engine cranks? If it doesn't the distributor isn't sending the signal to the coil. Check on both the negative and the positive sides to make sure the coil's good.;) A voltmeter won't work, sorry.:oops:
 
Ok, after spending 3 full days on this thing, I finally figured it out. Well , a Napa associate did. He explained to me, that there are 2 different coils that could be used back when on these older model cars. 1 was an external resister or 2 one with an internal resister built in the coil. I didn't see an external resister on the skylark , so he sold me the coil with the internal resister and the correct points. I went back to hobby lobby shop, put them on and would you know it, cranked right up. Didn't even have to reset the points. I guess a little reading on my part - read label on ignition coil - could've saved me 2.5 days of grief.
 
Well all of the GM points cars from the 60's up had a resistance wire on them so the coil wouldn't burn up. If you notice the 2 wires attached to the positive side of the coil, one's the resistance wire and the other is off the starter. It gives straight 12 volts so the car starts easier. One thing I would look at is getting rid of the points and going with a petronics electronic conversion. Pretty simple and no one will ever know you've done it since they only get rid of the points and condensor. Uses stock cap and rotor and adds 1 wire to the distributor but that's all.
 
Well all of the GM points cars from the 60's up had a resistance wire on them so the coil wouldn't burn up. If you notice the 2 wires attached to the positive side of the coil, one's the resistance wire and the other is off the starter. It gives straight 12 volts so the car starts easier. One thing I would look at is getting rid of the points and going with a petronics electronic conversion. Pretty simple and no one will ever know you've done it since they only get rid of the points and condensor. Uses stock cap and rotor and adds 1 wire to the distributor but that's all.

My buddy put one in when he rebuilt the engine in his '64 Stingray, he's really happy with it.
 
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