I Quit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter im faster
- Start date
GNTTYPE.org
Go to the original Technical online resource. http://www.gnttype.org and go to the technical section. As I recall Ken Mosher uploaded the "How to diagnose a No-Start condition" from the shop manual.
Clue #1 - you just replaced the crank sensor. :wink:
Go to the original Technical online resource. http://www.gnttype.org and go to the technical section. As I recall Ken Mosher uploaded the "How to diagnose a No-Start condition" from the shop manual.
Clue #1 - you just replaced the crank sensor. :wink:
Check the balancer to make sure that its tight and hasnt rubbed on the crank sensor. Check the wires between the coil pack and cam and crank sensor for open circuits or corroded connections. Verify that the fuses are good with an ohm meter. Ive seen bad ones overlooked.
Check This
Had a similar problem. Check the module in the ECM (computer). Sometimes the chip is not seated, and will cause the car to shut completely down. The easiest way to check is to start the car, if you can. Rap the computer with your hand. If the car shuts off, hesitates or stumbles, thats probably the problem. Replug the chip. Just make sure you touch something grounded before you touch the chip or you could possibly ruin it. Good Luck!
Had a similar problem. Check the module in the ECM (computer). Sometimes the chip is not seated, and will cause the car to shut completely down. The easiest way to check is to start the car, if you can. Rap the computer with your hand. If the car shuts off, hesitates or stumbles, thats probably the problem. Replug the chip. Just make sure you touch something grounded before you touch the chip or you could possibly ruin it. Good Luck!
turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
If there is no spark, then there is likely no injector pulse either. The fule pressure is coming from the prime pulsa or the oil press sensor.
To diagnose a no spark condition you need a DVOM, even a cheap one will work for this test.
Set DVOM on 10v-12V DC
Backprobe the cam signal wire pin k at the module (hooked up). Use a safety pin or paperclip to sneak in between the wire and the seal. You should see 7v key on engine off. Slowly rotate the engine by Hand and observe the voltage. It should drop to .5v it may take up to 2 full crank revs to see this happen. If you don't see the drop, Cam sensor is not working.
Backprobe the crank signal wire pin F a the module, observe same as above.
This voltage should be the same 7v and go low (.5v) 3 times for every crank rev. no drop? crank sensor is not working.
If you try to crank the engine and observe this, you'll miss the drop. It happens too quick to see on a DVOM. You can see it on an osciliscope or a graphing multimeter.
Don't see the 7V at either sensor? Check 12V and ground to the module. Have good 12V and ground? Module is toast. Look for a sensor voltage feed wire shorted to ground. The module supplies the same voltage source (10-11V) to the cam and crank sensor. If this feed wire gets grounded it takes out the module (no fuse to protect the module).
To diagnose a no spark condition you need a DVOM, even a cheap one will work for this test.
Set DVOM on 10v-12V DC
Backprobe the cam signal wire pin k at the module (hooked up). Use a safety pin or paperclip to sneak in between the wire and the seal. You should see 7v key on engine off. Slowly rotate the engine by Hand and observe the voltage. It should drop to .5v it may take up to 2 full crank revs to see this happen. If you don't see the drop, Cam sensor is not working.
Backprobe the crank signal wire pin F a the module, observe same as above.
This voltage should be the same 7v and go low (.5v) 3 times for every crank rev. no drop? crank sensor is not working.
If you try to crank the engine and observe this, you'll miss the drop. It happens too quick to see on a DVOM. You can see it on an osciliscope or a graphing multimeter.
Don't see the 7V at either sensor? Check 12V and ground to the module. Have good 12V and ground? Module is toast. Look for a sensor voltage feed wire shorted to ground. The module supplies the same voltage source (10-11V) to the cam and crank sensor. If this feed wire gets grounded it takes out the module (no fuse to protect the module).
onefastcar
mono e mono
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2005
ttt
ttt????
lol..
well changed the ignition module didnt start unhooked it and tested for power checked fuse blown replaced fuse.. didnt start screamed **** looked under the hood relized i didnt hook the harness back up.. hooked harness up sat in seat said a prayer... the screamed again... ITS ALIVE HAHAHAHA...... so yeah its running agian for now...
lol..
well changed the ignition module didnt start unhooked it and tested for power checked fuse blown replaced fuse.. didnt start screamed **** looked under the hood relized i didnt hook the harness back up.. hooked harness up sat in seat said a prayer... the screamed again... ITS ALIVE HAHAHAHA...... so yeah its running agian for now...
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
See? I told you you had a grasp of the situation right from the beginning. 
turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Take a look, or you'll be replacing that module again.
Something (wire shorted to ground) took out that ignition module. They rarely blow for no reason.
If you don't inspect, find and fix the real problem, you'll have another problem .
Dave
Something (wire shorted to ground) took out that ignition module. They rarely blow for no reason.
If you don't inspect, find and fix the real problem, you'll have another problem .
Dave
engine stall
it sounds to me like everyone has forgotten the poor grounding of these cars,
I think it would be interesting to see how well the grounds are at the rear of the right cylinder head , these are the grounds for the ECM as well as the ignition control circuits.
im faster said:
it sounds to me like everyone has forgotten the poor grounding of these cars,
I think it would be interesting to see how well the grounds are at the rear of the right cylinder head , these are the grounds for the ECM as well as the ignition control circuits.
pvt num 11
Finally driving it
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2005
To fix the grounds, one could make a thick groundstrap from one of the coilpack hold-down bolts (I was thinking of the back one) and stick the other end to the firewall someplace, right?
Or is there a better way to ground the engine up? I was with him when we checked resistance between the coil pack mount and a chunk of firewall, zero ohms. Not that it meant anything, a single strand of wire can ohm out on a multimeter, but suck at carrying operational-level voltages.
Or is there a better way to ground the engine up? I was with him when we checked resistance between the coil pack mount and a chunk of firewall, zero ohms. Not that it meant anything, a single strand of wire can ohm out on a multimeter, but suck at carrying operational-level voltages.
JSAautomotive
Banned
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2006
Which is why using the voltage drop method is a much better way of checking an electrical system dynamically (functioning under loads).
SITHV6
Move against the Jedi 1st
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2002
Something to peek at...
Dont know if this is a TR Buick defect...but when my TR kept dying in the middle of a checkers drive thru, it turned out the harness end that plugged into the module got FRIED! unscrewed the harness and peeked into the connectors to find the sockets nearest the center near the bolt had Melted and scorched the plastic! For giggles...try peeking at the sockets on the main harness that plugs into the ignition module.
tried a cheap fix using the ends of another buicks harness only to blow a headgasket at the track when it was misfiring at high boost...a new caspers main wiring harness later...and engine rebuild...all fine lol.
Dont know if this is a TR Buick defect...but when my TR kept dying in the middle of a checkers drive thru, it turned out the harness end that plugged into the module got FRIED! unscrewed the harness and peeked into the connectors to find the sockets nearest the center near the bolt had Melted and scorched the plastic! For giggles...try peeking at the sockets on the main harness that plugs into the ignition module.
tried a cheap fix using the ends of another buicks harness only to blow a headgasket at the track when it was misfiring at high boost...a new caspers main wiring harness later...and engine rebuild...all fine lol.
