You can type here any text you want

I really hate my car!!!

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Buix893

Buick = $$$
Joined
Jul 2, 2009
Messages
453
Well fellas for about a month and a half I have been trying to diagnose my cars problem. It all started out with me playing with my fan and the car would not start....to make a long story short I Installed all these items BRAND NEW
1)Ecm
2) Coilpack/Module
3) Ignition Switch
4) Plugs/Wires
5) Fusible Links

Car starts on one crank which is great...but o2's start out at 390 for about 10 seconds then go up to normal. Car revs high at first then back to normal. I have no MAL codes also. My scanmaster numbers are fine, the TPS is a bit off, but otherwise all checks out.

I would have to try a Cam,Crank, and Maf sensor to test out all the things possible, but I don't have $400 laying around so the car sadly has to sit. I wish there was someone in my area who had some spare parts to test on my car to help me out, cause I am going nowere with this car as is........:frown:
 
Have you tried tighten the grounds at the back of the pass side head?. Poor ground will cause all types of problems.
 
Start at the begining. Did your car run correctly before you had a fan problem? What did the fan do? What did you do to the fan?
 
Car ran 100% perfect...ran like a dream...My fan is hardwired...it has a caspers harness so I ran a ground wire from the firewall to the harness, then a 14 gauge wire from a 12V ignition source to the posotive end of the connector..I have had my fan like this for 3 years and no problems what so ever.

I tried installing a manual toggle switch and when i put the 12V source to the switch it sparked and the car would not start. After playing with fuses and what not it runs, but now it acts up, and stumbles. I just can't see how the hell a toggle switch could have caused this $hit.
 
Might have cooked the Translator.
 
I actually have the stocker maf...my translator got wet and...well you know the rest....I am in Central NJ
 
From your first post, I don't understand what the problem is...:confused: Don't worry what the O2 says for the first 10 seconds.... who cares? In fact, who cares for the first couple minutes? It's totally inaccurate until it gets up to temp. You didn't describe anything abby normal? :tongue: If it's now running like crap, and in this process you changed _back_ to the original maf, then perhaps there's your problem??
 
From your first post, I don't understand what the problem is...:confused: Don't worry what the O2 says for the first 10 seconds.... who cares? In fact, who cares for the first couple minutes? It's totally inaccurate until it gets up to temp. You didn't describe anything abby normal? :tongue: If it's now running like crap, and in this process you changed _back_ to the original maf, then perhaps there's your problem??

X2

How high is 'revs high'????
 
Car was running fine with the stocker maf, have had it on for a few monthes with no problems...car revs high like 1200 rpm...then when warms up back to 800-850. TPS wont stay at .42 no matter what i do, always at .46, and IAC is always at 60+, but has been like that for years.

The car sounds like it is gonna stall out but doesnt. Can it be the TPS, or IAC? I have played with the TPs and IAc for hours and still can't get them to be accurate. Before i used to set it to .42 with key in ign, and then that was that. Now when i do it, it goes back up to .46-.48.
 
Let us know which fuses u put in , most imprtantly ,if possible find out which one blew and allowed car to start..
 
The ECM/IGN fuse was blown...dont remember if that is what made it run again by putting in a new fuse
 
A couple simple things- make sure all spark plug wires are pushed on all the way, and spray carb cleaner into throttle body. My iac was always high until I cleaned the t-body. You can always change the O2 sensor and spark plugs to see if that helps. I just installed E3 plugs and now I get 24 mpg on highway. Previous best was 20-21 mpg.
 
Don't rule out the EGR valve also-if opening too soon will cause stalling issues-Where in central jersey are you? What town?
 
My car was also perfect and then went to crap. Do the basics, in my case one of the earth bolts had come loose and despite looking fine the PCV valve hoses were leaking vacuum. It costs nothing to check. My car now idles just like it used to.
 
Car was running fine with the stocker maf, have had it on for a few monthes with no problems...car revs high like 1200 rpm...then when warms up back to 800-850. TPS wont stay at .42 no matter what i do, always at .46, and IAC is always at 60+, but has been like that for years.

The car sounds like it is gonna stall out but doesnt. Can it be the TPS, or IAC? I have played with the TPs and IAc for hours and still can't get them to be accurate. Before i used to set it to .42 with key in ign, and then that was that. Now when i do it, it goes back up to .46-.48.

It should idle higher when it's cold and gradually drop as it warms up, so that is completely normal.

When you set the tps, key on, engine off, you want to set it 20-30 mv (.02-.03 v) lower than what you want it to be... it rises when the car is started because there is more voltage present from the now operating alternator... so that is normal too....

Clean the iac real good, do the tps/iac setup dance routine to try and get them within acceptable limits, and see where that gets you.... tps=0.48 is too high and the ecm doesn't think the car is idling at that voltage... get it down to 0.42-0.44 RUNNING..... and iac somewhere around 20-ish counts in park... fully warmed up, of course..... also, make sure your P/N switch is adjusted properly so that the ecm knows when it's in park/neutral or in gear.... it makes a difference.... and effects the idle...
 
I am in Edison NJ, tommarrow I will check it all over. It's just sooo annoying, I wish someone could come over and help me cause I am pulling out my hair....:(
 
Not saying its the problem, but if you are running a toggle switch on the fan circuit....better be a real good toggle switch and on the right side of a nearby relay. Most toggle switches are not robust enough to carry that kind of current draw and they will cook off.
 
Back
Top