I think I am going to snap....

[GNASH]

The last couple of weeks my car has been getting worse and worse with gas mileage and now recently, it's idle is the pits. It has thrown numerous Code 45's at me. I ran T-Link on it around town, and the BLM's most of the time are bottoming out at 105 quite fast. Bucking and stumbling are there too. So far these are the things I have tried to get this problem fixed:

1) Did a leak down test of my injectors and check valve on fuel pump, holds full pressure for hours after car is shut off.

2) Replaced my O2 sensor (actually tried two of them). Counts are kind of on the low side once in awhile, but for the most part, it seems like it is reacting fine.

3) Tps sensor. All settings and voltages read as they should.

4) Sprayed all vacuum lines and their junctions to try and find any leaks, so far I have found nothing.

5) Did the old MAF tests. Tap in and the car stumbles. Disconnect and the car wants to stall, so I think it is working fine. All GPS number s are fine on T-Link.

6) Checked EGR valve. Cleaned it and did a vacuum test on it and the lines. All is good.

7) For kicks I took my Power Plate out. Nothing changed but for some strange reason, the car is spooling faster........

8) Replaced the fuel filter.

9) Replaced the PCV valve.

When I take the car for a WOT run, the BLM's are at 119 (good) and the car knocks abit with tons of timing being pulled out.

The only other thing I can think of is that I have discovered a header crack on the driver's side. But I can not see this affecting the state of the car at idle so much. I doubt that this crack popped up within the last two weeks. BLM's are at the bottom of the barrel at idle and it is usually so rich, my eyes start burning. The car has a Conley 92? chip in it, but I have tried two other chips with no improvements in performance.



Sorry to go on babbling, but I have reached the end of my rope. I am going to get the header welded (hopefully this week), but I still don't think that this is the cause of all my problems.

If anyone has any ideas, they would be greatly appreciated..................excuse me while I go in the corner and cry now...........

 

[XLR8]

Did you check fuel pressure?
Air cleaner very dirty or clogged?

 

[GNASH]

I have checked my fuel pressure...45 psi vac off. The air cleaner is not the cleanest thing I have seem, but quite acceptable. I will give it a bath tomorrow.

I also have checked my plugs, tested all the wires and the readings between coil towers.....all were good.


...............*sniff sniff*..............

 

[Eric Stage I]

Can you list all scanner readings at idle, warmed up, in park.
Maybe we can see something there.

Eric

 

[blackbuick87]

I thought if the engine stumbled when the MAF is rapped that meant it was bad

 

[BADINBLACK6]

Did you say you tapped the MAF sensor and it stumbled?If it did then the MAF is bad. My car recently was throwing code 45 and 44 and I replaced the 02 sensor with 3 different ones and it turned out to be my MAF sensor not the 02 sensor so your MAF can set a code 45 or 44. I always thought if you tapped the MAF and the car stumbles then your MAF is bad.

 

[fireberd350]

my car throws code 45 occassionally too and runs rich and EATS gas....my MAF plug is broke too....held on by some zip ties(prev owner )....maybe ill check that out....got a new one coming anyways...hopefully that will fix it...:

 

[GNASH]

???? I thought I read somewhere that is the MAF was tapped and the car stumbled, it meant it was good because it was having a hard time getting an accurate reading to to the disruption in airflow...........if I am wrong, I'm going to feel like a complete ass.......... I think I just answered my own question.

Readings at idle were:

TPS -0.44
MAF- 6 GPS
02 #- 15-70
BLM's- 105 (most of the time)
Temp.- 165
IAC #- 15-25

I have replaced my MAF three times in as many years....I wish I could do the Translator option, but that much instant cash requirement cuts into my SMC alky purchasing fund.........and we don't want that.

 

[BoostKillsStres]

I would also pull all the plugs and compare to see if you have a dieing cylinder fire / coil problem. If all the plugs are dark then I'd bet its the maf, it shouldn't stumble at all when you tap it.

HTH

 

[GNASH]

I checked all the plugs today and it seemed as if the back two were abit fueled. The other four were fairly tan. I did a test across all the coil towers (a year old) and all was well.

....................I can't believe I have been such an idiot with the MAF. I tapped it today with the handle of a screw driver and the car almost stalled...............what makes these things die so fast? Is it from vibration of the motor? I thought they would be more reliable than that.

I guess if this turns out to be the problem tomorrow I can at least know that 99% of my TR spring tune up is done.



.......................leaving room for a smart ass remark from WSLN 6..............

 

[zam70]

Sound like the MAF
What MAF are you running?
Get one from NAPA, Eichilin brand. I've always had great luck with them.
NO HOUR GLASS MAFs.

 

[GNASH]

The last one I bought was a Standard. For the price ($125 Can.) it worked great....until now apparently.

I have had experiences with other brands before and they all seem to be crap except for the Standards. On that note, the last time my MAF went,I knew instantly because the car would fall flat on it's face an soon as you got into the gas. If I soft peddled it, I could make it to the part shop. Never had a bad MAF let me do a full throttle run and give me the right readings..........guess there is a first time for everything.

 

[WSLN 6]

Ok, here comes that smart ass remark..............ready?
set..............
nah, I'm too nice.............


Do you want me to check around here and see if there is a MAF of some sort that would work?

 

[GNASH]

Nahhh...I'll pick one up at Auto Parts Plus tomorrow. The last one I got from them worked great. I did try a Neihoff(sp?) from Prts Source once and the car ran worse with the new one than the old one! Hope this is the cure, cuz if not, you'll get to see the Chebby this weekend....19mpg and coming atcha!.

 

[WSLN 6]

Whatever works buddy...........a guy I used to work with works at parts source now, so maybe we could get about 5 MAFS and give him back the 4 bad ones.....

 

[fireberd350]

anyone have any luck with MAF from GSCA? just curious b/c i was going to buy one...thanks

 

[blackbuick87]

Originally posted by GNASH


I have replaced my MAF three times in as many years....I wish I could do the Translator option, but that much instant cash requirement cuts into my SMC alky purchasing fund.........and we don't want that.

Nahhh...I'll pick one up at Auto Parts Plus tomorrow. The last one I got from them worked great.

OK, you have gone through 3 in 3 years, but the last one was great? ?
No it wasnt, they were all POS's. Get a Translator and this yearly debacle will be over. The new MAF's are light years ahead of the stock MAF, even a Delco. Fix it right and you will be rewarded with a much better idle, great throttle response and a more airflow.

Fixing it right is more important then SMC. If money is and object, build a DIY kit for $125 and you can get both right now

 

[GNASH]

Ok...bought and new MAF and installed and the car is running much better...but it is still running abit rich. Threw in the Thrasher 92 and out with the Conley 92 and it idles better and does not knock as much. While the car is warmed up and driving, BLM's are between 116 and 128...that seems fine. The O2 count is great (15-60) but as soon as I stop at a light or park it, it drops down to zero and stays there. It is a brand new one. Even tried a spare I had too. Same results. I suspect the cracked header is the cause of this.

Blackbuick87, you are right about the reman MAF's. Unfortunately, I need this car for a weekend trip now and am in an awkward position as it is my daily driver as well. I'm sure a round up of the new parts is going to take a few weeks. I'll go and price out the Trans Plus and a Lt1 MAF and see how much it is going to soak me in canadian funds. I should have exactly one year before this new reman falls on it's face. Do you think the remans would last longer if it was hard mounted to the frame of the car but with a rubber isolator between to absorb vibration?

Anyhoo, thanks for all the help so far guys.

D

 

[Roger]

I went the Translator+ route - somewhat pricy, but no more MAF problems.

 

[blackbuick87]

Dont worry about O2's with a Thrasher at idle. It is an open loop chip and does not use O2 sensor input unless the engine is under load. Your Scanmaster should have the "." between the 0.0 for KR blinking when it is in open loop.

What makes you think the car is still running rich?

As far as the Translator goes it is $179, plus the cost of a MAF ($100) I think that equates to $1200 canadian