I think my voltage regulator is bad....

[Tom Tom Turbo]

where is the voltage regulator and where can I get one? I have a brand new, tested good battery and I don't think it is the alternator, since both advance auto and auto zone tested it and it was fine.

 

[1ARUNEM]

Regulator is built into the alternator (internal)..

 

[Benched]

Those machines in the stores are not always accurate, especially when it comes to amperage output. Take your alternator to someone who specializes in rebuilding them, and have them test it.

 

[2QUIK6]

Usually when mines about to go I notice the headlight dim at idle and sometimes just by tapping the brake which causes an extra load on the alt/reg when lighting up the tail lights.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

when you turn the key on, does the volt light illuminate?

if not, that bulb will keep the alt from charging.

from your other thread

the alt is avail at advanced, but i would buy the 200 amp alt kit at turbo buicks . com and put together one at half the price
BW

 

[Tom Tom Turbo]

yes the volt light comes on....but after the car is started it flickers about 3 or 4 times during a 20 min. drive


We tested volts at the battery while the car was running and got 13.3....so I am thinkin that's what it is. Battery read 12.4 with key off.

 

[Turbo Brian]

13.3 at the battery with the engine running is in the normal range for these cars. These seem to run less than the 13.8 to 14.2 volts that many GM cars run. If you insist on changing the voltage regulator, the regulator on this model runs about $50 just for the part. It is also soldered to a mounting connecter, so that adds one more step to the part swap process.

If your car starts normally, then the alternator is charging your battery at least most of the time.

The brown wire coming off of the back of the alternator connects to the back of the instrument cluster and excites the alternator field through the volt light. If there is a loose connection at any point between the back of the alternator through the volt light, then that may be causing your intermittant volt light. If this is the case, you can rewire or if you choose not to, get a field fix harness from Casper's Electronics. This is a plug and play fix that works around wiring harness problems.

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by Turbo Brian
13.3 at the battery with the engine running is in the normal range for these cars. These seem to run less than the 13.8 to 14.2 volts that many GM cars run. If you insist on changing the voltage regulator, the regulator on this model runs about $50 just for the part. It is also soldered to a mounting connecter, so that adds one more step to the part swap process.

If your car starts normally, then the alternator is charging your battery at least most of the time.

The brown wire coming off of the back of the alternator connects to the back of the instrument cluster and excites the alternator field through the volt light. If there is a loose connection at any point between the back of the alternator through the volt light, then that may be causing your intermittant volt light. If this is the case, you can rewire or if you choose not to, get a field fix harness from Casper's Electronics. This is a plug and play fix that works around wiring harness problems.

Now my experiences have been different. I have tested a LOT of T/R's over the last 18 years, and have never seen one yet that read outside of the 13.9-14.3v range. With a known good high quality alternator that is.
The reasons I have found them to read down into the low to mid 13's or lower were one or more of several things. Cheap/bad/faulty alternator, faulty/cobbled wiring, too much corrosion on the various connections, etc.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

You could have a sticky brush that is worn out, that could also explain the intermittent voltage out put from the alt.

If you have a scanmaster, turn it to volts and take the car for a drive, if the alt voltage drops out then its time for a rebuild.

At the other board the new alt is a 200 amp alternator and only 79 bucks...free shipping

I agree with TD, alt voltage needs to be a little higher.

IF and only IF, the battery is fully charged and you are not having slow cranking, would i accept 13.3 voltage output from a alt, and thats checking the voltage at the battery.

Have the car running and turn on your headlights, radio,wipers,defrost,dome light, trunk light.
If the voltage drops down into the 12s at the alternator, then buy the rebuild kit
BW

 

[Tom Tom Turbo]

sorry...which other board...T6P, GNTTYPE, Turbobuicks....

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Was in my first post

turbo buicks . com

go to the "store"

i should have said for 79.00 you get the guts to repair your existing alt.... making it all new on the inside.
i reread what i typed, i shouldnt have said "new alternator"
BW

 

[SHADOWII]

Are you running an under-drive pulley combination? May have caused the alternator to slow too much in generating rpm?