Had no issues at all with the IAC or idle. Replaced the TPS sensor and now IAC is wigging out. Started car and turned off 3x so IAC could learn. Posting a video of Scanmaster. So my question is should I mess with the idle screw with IAC #'s so high or should I just do the ALDL hard reset? Or something else?
IAC Issue
- Thread starter GNICETRY
- Start date
My voltage is low I think because my Spal fans kicked on. They are energy hogs. Usually IIRC the volts are at 13.5ish driving around. The battery is new and full of voltage. I do have a pretty decent battery/alternator tester and will check the charging system tomorrow. The battery checked better than new. It is constantly connected to a Battery Tender.
I replaced the TPS because it was showing erratic readings, coded 22 and was not working properly when I was accelerating hard sometimes. I checked the voltage to it (engine off) and it was 5.02V.
My rpm is low and my IAC is crazy high at 175. The IAC was obviously affected when I changed the TPS, which is affecting the idle. It was working perfectly before the change and people envied my idle. Just wondering what I should do next- hard reset of IAC via ALDL? Adjust the minimum air screw? Drive it around for 15mins????
I have a TurboTweak chip BTW.
I replaced the TPS because it was showing erratic readings, coded 22 and was not working properly when I was accelerating hard sometimes. I checked the voltage to it (engine off) and it was 5.02V.
My rpm is low and my IAC is crazy high at 175. The IAC was obviously affected when I changed the TPS, which is affecting the idle. It was working perfectly before the change and people envied my idle. Just wondering what I should do next- hard reset of IAC via ALDL? Adjust the minimum air screw? Drive it around for 15mins????
I have a TurboTweak chip BTW.
michael evans
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2008
williamsGN
'Horse sneeze' addict
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2007
Reset the IAC and take it from there
Did ALDL reset for IAC. The idle was at about 500rpm which is what the IAC reset says it should be so I didn't touch the screw. Button everything back up and same sh!t. Idle at 450-550rpm and IAC 175 idling and 140 ignition on/engine off. I pressed the gas ever so slightly to bring up RPMs to 800-900 and my volts were around 13.5 and my beautiful idle was back so I don't have a voltage issue. I have a low RPM high IAC issue. Disconnected the orange wire/ECM and same thing, nothing changed. Besides the idle issue can ran great for a couple of miles, TPS seemed to be working fine.
What's my next move turn screw clockwise to bring idle up with engine running?
Guess I'm just frustrated that the idle was perfect before TPS switch.
What's my next move turn screw clockwise to bring idle up with engine running?
Guess I'm just frustrated that the idle was perfect before TPS switch.
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
Okay you want your IAC to be around 15-20 when it is warm . To raise the IAC number you will close the throttle body with the screw and to lower the number you will open it. After you get it to 15-20ish then you will go back and reset your Tps to .40-.44
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
Don’t worry about the TPS till after you get the IAC where u want it . So with the numbers you stated you will use that screw to open the throttle body which will drop the IAC number . Then you will adjust the tps by the screws that secure it to the TB .
Just wanted to update -So I did the hard ALDL reset again, this time I raised the idle in park, engine hot to about 700, not 500RPMs by turning the screw clockwise. Adjusted TPS. Seemed OK. Took it for a 20 min ride ran great. Lots of stop and go, idling. Got gas and when turned back on idling low 500ish with IAC's 175. Stalling out. Took IAC off and cleaned it with carb cleaner and brush. It was kind of sooty but nothing too bad. The pintle with spring did fly off. Apparently it just screws on again. Cleaned out the IAC hole also with a Q tip until all clean. Did hard ALDL reset again. Drove it a little and seems pretty normal but IAC is going to 0 at idle now. Going to drive it for another little while and see what happens. I really feel that the IAC is jacked up. If it doesn't smooth out and correct itself I have a new IAC to try.
Just to update my TPS was wigging out also- new TPS and IAC. Took my ECM out and saw #5 corroded and also what was in the pic. Some chimp just put the wires together and electrical taped them and when I moved the ECM it came out (the IAC green one). So that was one of the issues with the IAC. Thank you all for your help.
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