I'm A Failure. GURUs WANTED

Royal-T-Ltd

Royal-T-Ltd

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2003
Well I did it AGAIN:mad: failed for the 3rd time or was it 4. here are the numbers...
HC= 2.279 [.8 pass]
CO= 9.1992 [15]
NOx= 3.19 [2.0]

this was with warming the car up. JC emission chip. Wastegate unhooked. 34psi static F/P.

What the he!!. Idle blms around 128 +/- 5.... HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP me. I don't own a trailer queen. - Its an 11 sec street legal car ,I swear.... or at least it s'posed to be.
 
Lets start with the basics. What plugs? Who's catalytic converter? When was the last time you ran racing gas though your system? And was the cat removed and did you remove all traces of racing fuel prior to re installing your catalyst if it was removed. Do you have any coolant leaks (internal engine or near the O2 sensor)? Does you TC lock up at cruise? How was the car driven on the dyno? (irradically or smooth), Did the operator stay within the trace or was there a few drive trace violations?

that shoud keep you busy for a while:) .
 
plugs= r42ts [ i asked on the emissions forum. they said the colder plug was fine and actually took less energy:confused:]

convertor= 3" hi-flow that came with my D/P

Race Gas= Usually never but i did use some in October for a race and come to think of it i raced with my Cat on

O2= New Delco with less than 500 miles on it / NO coolant leaks - just oil ;)

T/C LU- Yes

DYNO Smoothness= Those Mutha$%@% never drive my sh!t right. thats why this last time I unhooked the wastegate. they used to get scared as he.. when the boost kicks in and get off ..But for the most part they do a POOR job of following the trace graph but im dont think there were too many vilations if any.
 
You may try just turning the boost down and warning the operator. Also, if any race fuel hit that cat, it may have killed it. Do you have access to a portable pyrometer? If so, get the vehicle warmed up (that should be fun) and find a safe location to pull off the freeway and do a temp test at the inlet and outlet your cat. The outlet temp should be al least 100 degrees hotter that the inlet. The back half of the cat is responsible for oxidation, therefore the chemical reaction of converting HC and CO to CO2 and H2O (oxidation process) will create heat.
 
Are talking about the outer shell temps are do you mean I have to drill holes for probes. Also cant you get temp probes for your multimeter? or maybe im just trippin'
 
Read this article. It will give you better advice than you are getting here.

Your HC failure indicates too much fuel....if you have a MAF translator can't you lean it out using that. It will trim your fuel if I recall although maybe it is only the TPlus.

Your NOX failure seems to indicate a failing EGR system. Is that still hooked up and working correctly?

Good Luck.

http://marksalem.com/faqs/faq-20.htm
 
Lets go back to the catalytic converter scenario. - How much race gas would it take to render a cat useless? Well it look normal from plain view. Maybe Mine is contaminated. Just a thought.
 
Originally posted by Royal-T-Ltd
Are talking about the outer shell temps are do you mean I have to drill holes for probes. Also cant you get temp probes for your multimeter? or maybe im just trippin'
Click to expand...

you don't have to drill holes in the cat. We're talking about outer shell temps. But like a previous post said, you have to be sure of your basics. that includes fuel trim and ignition. And is your EGR working? Does your scantool indicate EGR duty cycle and if you lift the pintle at idle, does the engine stumble. You're running a sealed power cam huh? That cam has a lobe center around 110-112 degrees, so there is some increased cylinder pressure there, therefore EGR must function properly. If have problems with EGR and fix it prior to addressing HC, then HC may rise (when EGR is functioning). As someone stated earlier, you may be too rich, but if you lean the fueltrim out and HC increases, then you're probably edging towards lean.
 
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