I'm rebuilding my engine......

[mbrouder]

....I'm going to have lots of questions.

I recently bought a Grand National and was told "the engine was making noise, so we shut it off and pulled it out". That was as far as they got. I went in assuming the worst but hoping it was just something in the heads. Turns out it's a spun bearing, #5? rear most rod. And damage to the piston. Looks like a crank clearance issue because there was not much left of the bearing.

I plan on using a new crank and different cam (mild roller). I'm not building a monster.

Do these pistons look stock? I'm assuming so. I'm going to need a good stock rod and piston.

All six cylinder bores look good, no obvious damage. Once the block is stripped it's going to the machine/engine shop for whatever they can do, not sure the extent of their services. I'll be happy to get back an assembled short block and rebuilt heads.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Looks like a stock piston. Any stamping on the top indicating over bore?
That block HAS to be totally stripped and cleaned.
Brg and piston crap has gone thru the oiling system.
As for the shop... If they are not familiar with the V6.... go elsewhere.

 

[mbrouder]

Nothing stamped on top. Certainly appears to be stock.

Current resistance coming from the front timing cover and the main caps. A little short on time today to continue working on it.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Current resistance coming from the front timing cover

Make sure ALL the bolts are out.

 

[earlbrown]

Nothing stamped on top. Certainly appears to be stock.


View attachment 405970
View attachment 405971

Current resistance coming from the front timing cover and the main caps. A little short on time today to continue working on it.

There's a 'hidden' bolt just above the oil pump housing that a lot of people miss.

 

[mbrouder]

Got the timing cover off. This spring fell out and I have no clue where it came from.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Cam endplay plug

 

[mbrouder]

^^ thank you.

 

[earlbrown]

If that's all that fell out, you've got a plastic disk in your oil pan.

With some timing gear teeth as well, most likely.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Hi Earl!

 

[mbrouder]

If that's all that fell out, you've got a plastic disk in your oil pan.

With some timing gear teeth as well, most likely.

No plastic disc and the timing gears look to be in good shape. Someone had been in this motor before me though.

I haven't gotten to the oil pan yet. Once I removed it I just set it aside. There is sludge and bearing material in it tough.

 

[BEATAV8]

Look inside / back side of the front cover. Plastic thrust goodie may be stuck there in its own self made cubby hole

 

[mbrouder]

I'll have a look later.

Can anyone recommend a good replacement (steel) crankshaft that won't break the bank.

 

[mbrouder]

....also, I just spoke with the engine builder while I was on lunch. One thing that came up was, I might not be able to reuse my pistons if the bores need to be opened up by .030. If that's the case, does it make sense to just get a stroker crank at no extra cost (at least that's what I've seen from 1 vendor).

Stroker crank, stock rods, new .030 over pistons? Free horsepower?

 

[~JM~]

Try to clean the bores @ .010"

You will need new pistons if you bore.

Stroker crank will require some block clearancing.

Who is your engine builder? Research bearing clearance requirements for Buick V6, vs small block Chevy.

 

[mbrouder]

Try to clean the bores @ .010"

You will need new pistons if you bore.

Stroker crank will require some block clearancing.

Who is your engine builder? Research bearing clearance requirements for Buick V6, vs small block Chevy.

Would .010 require new pistons also? I suppose that what, if anything gets taken out of the bores is up to them. Point is, if I need new pistons, I might as well stroke. Ideally, I'll stick with the stock pistons and standard stroke.

I recently built a relatively big dollar motor, 3.6 Porsche air cooled 6. I don't want to go down another slippery slope.

AES, Elk Grove Village IL. is the builder.